Catastrophe After One Week

generaltso

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Thanks all for your support. Does anyone have the TSB number that calls for replacing the faulty LVB? I found 49758 but it’s short.
I don't believe there is a TSB that calls for replacing the LVB. But that doesn't mean it won't be replaced if it won't hold a charge.
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JamieGeek

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Jbkimmel

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You may want to get a 12V meter and keep it plugged into the socket under the armrest. Many of us keep one. A quick glance and you know the state of your 12V battery.

Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Adapter-AINOPE-Cigarette-Compatible/dp/B08138GVMH/ref=sr_1_6?crid=8XD8ICR98T9P&keywords=12v+cigarette+lighter+meter&qid=1641564539&sprefix=12v+cigarette+lighter+meter,aps,91&sr=8-6

(yeah I couldn't find one on Amazon without USB plugs LOL).
You may want to get a 12V meter and keep it plugged into the socket under the armrest. Many of us keep one. A quick glance and you know the state of your 12V battery.

Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Adapter-AINOPE-Cigarette-Compatible/dp/B08138GVMH/ref=sr_1_6?crid=8XD8ICR98T9P&keywords=12v+cigarette+lighter+meter&qid=1641564539&sprefix=12v+cigarette+lighter+meter,aps,91&sr=8-6

(yeah I couldn't find one on Amazon without USB plugs LOL).
Is this the MME version of a dashboard statute of St. Christopher? ? Just ordered mine - thanks for the tip!
 

Ford Motor Company

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Today, my Premium SR AWD of 1 week suffered a complete meltdown (or I guess I should say “freeze up” given today’s 3 degree high temp) in the middle of I-35W in downtown Minneapolis. I was at 75% charge and everything was functioning normally, I was driving under 20 mph in congestion, and then all hell broke loose when I came to a stop. The first thing I noticed was the big screen shutting down to conserve power, and then the fact that the motor had turned off and the dash was flashing every possible error / warning message at me. I thought, okay, let’s shift into park and then restart, but pressing the start / stop button did nothing - and now I couldn’t shift into neutral or anything else. The only thing that seemed to function was the OK button to read the next failure message - and they spanned “rear door ajar” (it wasn’t) to “parking brake fault” (I hadn’t applied it). Long story short: I called the state patrol, they summoned a flatbed tow truck, and we hauled my overwhelmed car back to the dealership where I signed purchase papers the week before. We couldn’t even get the driver’s door to latch - is there a “latch”?

I know there are several threads about electronics failures similar to mine, and I’ll comb through those for hints. But I hope you’ll also share your thoughts and/or send links to thread that you think might be relevant. I want to be ready to advocate with the service department starting tomorrow, since they were all but closed when we arrived late this afternoon.

Here are a couple of screenshots that I just took - thanks in advance for your help!

2905EC9C-56DD-4848-B10B-C75E208D518F.png


B6C1DB96-24C1-43CD-BA04-1E29A4559EBD.png
Hello, Judson!
Send us a private message with your VIN and the name and location of your local Ford dealer.
I’d be happy to see what I can do to assist. Thanks!
 


oadesign

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I wonder given all of the delays, should we all just demand a brand new 12v upon delivery?
Since mine shipped 11+ weeks ago and has been sitting in a rail yard for 41 days now, I’m absolutely demanding a new 12V!
 

RickMachE

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Bad 12V batteries hit many F-150s a few years back. Gotta wonder if there is a problem with the Mach-E sitting unplugged and not keeping the 12V charged up. One would think that as part of prep of any new vehicle, putting the vehicle on a charger overnight before delivery would make sense.
 
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Jbkimmel

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What is a healthy / optimal voltage range for the AGM, to know that it’s not too close to cutoff?
 

oadesign

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Hello, Judson!
Send us a private message with your VIN and the name and location of your local Ford dealer.
I’d be happy to see what I can do to assist. Thanks!
@Ford Motor Company when you’re finished helping Judson, if you could nudge my Mach-E to my dealer for delivery, you’d be a real miracle-worker! (VIN 3FMTK3R74MMA61102) ?
 

oadesign

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That's not how it works. If the 12V battery tests fine, they're not just going to replace it.
Highly unlikely it will test fine. Nighttime temps at the rail yard it’s been parked in for the past 41 days average between 18-25° F.
 

Olds442

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What is a healthy / optimal voltage range for the AGM, to know that it’s not too close to cutoff?
What is the voltage of a 12V battery in a car?
Most 12V circuits (not cars) will operate fine down to around 10V and have protection at 12.5–13V. In a car 12V is dead, a “12V” lead-acid battery should be above 12.5V at rest. Running cars have alternator voltage regulators set between 13.5 and 16V. 10.5V is a destroyed battery for a normal (not deep-cycle) automotive battery.
 

generaltso

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Highly unlikely it will test fine. Nighttime temps at the rail yard it’s been parked in for the past 41 days average between 18-25° F.
That doesn't mean that it's likely the 12V battery is toast. Even if it arrives with a discharged LVB, it's likely they can charge it back up and it will be fine. If it won't hold a charge, they'll have to replace it. No demands should be necessary.
 

generaltso

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1641567810767.webp


jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/SoC.xls
This is a good starting point, but it's a little misleading with the MME because if there's any load on the system (like the frunk light), it will measure pretty low. And even at rest with no load, the voltage seems to get pretty low before the DC/DC converter kicks in, so low voltage alone doesn't necessarily mean the battery is unhealthy.
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