Complete Lockout After OTA Update

agoldman

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Ford needs to clearly sort this kind of problem out! Now!
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milepost1

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Ford's roadside assistance is completely worthless. My car broke down in a low clearance parking structure (HVBJB issue) and I tired to have them send many tow trucks over the course of a couple days. Every time I told them the exact situation and what I needed, but they kept sending the same flatbeds that couldn't fit inside.

Eventually I gave up on them and contacted my insurance's roadside assistance. They immediately escalated my case to a special manager and got me exactly what I needed. Night and day difference in competency and customer service.
Not sure why Ford roadside is so difficult. I have had to use AAA to actually get a damn tow. Maybe actually maybe as designed. Make you so frustrated you use your own tow company, then deny claim.
 

Phobosbag

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I think it's a good time to disable automatic updates for a while.
 

933233311602

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I think it's a good time to disable automatic updates for a while.
Or leave the window rolled down while parked in a garage. (Assuming the car can be still be started if you could get in.)
 


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It is episodes like this that have made me resolve to never buy another Ford vehicle. Tired of worrying about my car being bricked due to a discharged 12V battery. I would never take this car to the airport because after 8 nights locked with the alarm system on, the car would be bricked. No resale either. My $53,000 car is worth $25,000 after 2 years. My only real option at this point is to trade it in for a Toyota as I could never sell it to a third party with all these problems. I guess it is good my car has not been able to do a OTA for the last year.
 

filequit

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I had the exact same thing happen to me a few weeks ago, 3 days after receiving GWM OTA ECG-24.2.4.9.1 (First time plugging in the car after that OTA too). Exact same behavior mentioned being locked out, unable to use emergency frunk release. Took three different tow trucks to come out to finally get one that had dollies and wheel lifts to get it out of the garage. Coupled with the fact that the local Ford dealership was part of the CDK ransomware attack, they were unable/unwilling to give a loaner out. It went in on a Saturday, and was back in my possession the following Thursday. They replaced the GWM and LVB. I sent my story to the ford early access program inbox and actually received a call from them this past Friday and they asked me to submit voice feedback (apparently it includes log dump bundle) so engineers could look at the car's logs. I'm not sure how useful it will be since the GWM was replaced entirely, but hopefully the bad part got flagged for analysis so they can figure out root cause.
 

Track9979

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Reposting from Dan Gearhart from MachE facebook group on a potential solution:

Update 2:
The updated that caused the issue was:
24-PU0301-BLM-PE
After 5 roadside assistance attempts to get my car to the dealership (RSA kept sending the same company that didn’t have the equipment), I took matters into my own hands.
1) drained the 12v battery by basically sending the lock and unlock command from the key fob over and over keeping the computer awake.
2) once the 12v battery was drained, I was able to pop the frunk using the bumper jumpers
3) took the frunk apart and disconnected the 12v battery for 30min to make sure that there was no residual juice in the system (probably could have skipped this)
4) connected the battery and jumped it using the connection points recommended in the user manual
5) immediately opened the door and started the car while the 12v jump pack was still connected.
6) disconnected the jump pack and drove directly to the dealership (12 miles away)
7) had to jump the car while at the dealership because it didn’t charge enough. Drove the car back home but leaving it on for an hour.
—Keeping the window down tonight to make sure I can get in again.
I’ll update again if there are more issues.
 

zvez

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It's outrageous that Ford Roadside Assistance, 3 years in, ever dispatches a truck without dollies. Totally ridiculous.

@Ford Motor Company, can you help here?
I have the very uncomfortable worry that if my car does something like this in my garage, gettig it out will be a nightmare, it's up a long winding drive, and unless they use dollies (which I think is a must) they'd have to literally drag the car out. This was the nice thing about when I had an RWD mache, relatively easy to pull it out tail end first.
 

Mike G

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Well this has been a very illuminating thread. I think I'm going to do the mod to add the manual cable release for my frunk that can be hidden behind the charge port door. I thought about doing that one before but now it seems like it's moved up on the priority of "things to do to my Mach-E".
 

Kamuelaflyer

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I have the very uncomfortable worry that if my car does something like this in my garage, gettig it out will be a nightmare, it's up a long winding drive, and unless they use dollies (which I think is a must) they'd have to literally drag the car out. This was the nice thing about when I had an RWD mache, relatively easy to pull it out tail end first.
That’s a well justified concern. The Mach-e has no rear tow points. Pulling the car out of a garage will require dollies of some sort.
 
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LaserBear

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Reposting from Dan Gearhart from MachE facebook group on a potential solution:

Update 2:
The updated that caused the issue was:
24-PU0301-BLM-PE
After 5 roadside assistance attempts to get my car to the dealership (RSA kept sending the same company that didn’t have the equipment), I took matters into my own hands.
1) drained the 12v battery by basically sending the lock and unlock command from the key fob over and over keeping the computer awake.
2) once the 12v battery was drained, I was able to pop the frunk using the bumper jumpers
3) took the frunk apart and disconnected the 12v battery for 30min to make sure that there was no residual juice in the system (probably could have skipped this)
4) connected the battery and jumped it using the connection points recommended in the user manual
5) immediately opened the door and started the car while the 12v jump pack was still connected.
6) disconnected the jump pack and drove directly to the dealership (12 miles away)
7) had to jump the car while at the dealership because it didn’t charge enough. Drove the car back home but leaving it on for an hour.
—Keeping the window down tonight to make sure I can get in again.
I’ll update again if there are more issues.
Thanks for reposting this! I was about to come in and post it here as well.
So far I haven't had any issues, but I have my little battery jumper in my backpack (It's a NOCO Boost HD GB70 - and tiny!) while at work just in case and will probably keep it with me for a few more days. Any time I get a notification that there is going to be an update, I'll make sure that I have the window rolled down.

I haven't seen the manual frunk release mod, but I might be something I research. However, once the 12v battery was drained the frunk bump jump worked like a charm.
 
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LaserBear

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That’s a well justified concern. The Mach-e has no rear tow points. Pulling the car out of a garage will require dollies of some sort.
This was one of my issues... the company that RSA kept sending out didn't have the dollies or skates on their flatbed truck. Each time I called RSA I said the company they kept sending out didn't have the needed dollies or skates - but that info never seemed to get passed along. The call was escalated and the supervisor was awesome, but at that point I was already in the process of rebooting the "laptop on wheels"

Part of the problem was also that my garage is pretty small for a 2 car garage and I have to come in at an angle and then straighten up... leaving about a foot-and-a-half for me to get in and out of the car. If they would have pulled the car straight out, it would have taken off at least the mirror if not more.
 

Mach-Lee

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Reposting from Dan Gearhart from MachE facebook group on a potential solution:

Update 2:
The updated that caused the issue was:
24-PU0301-BLM-PE
After 5 roadside assistance attempts to get my car to the dealership (RSA kept sending the same company that didn’t have the equipment), I took matters into my own hands.
1) drained the 12v battery by basically sending the lock and unlock command from the key fob over and over keeping the computer awake.
2) once the 12v battery was drained, I was able to pop the frunk using the bumper jumpers
3) took the frunk apart and disconnected the 12v battery for 30min to make sure that there was no residual juice in the system (probably could have skipped this)
4) connected the battery and jumped it using the connection points recommended in the user manual
5) immediately opened the door and started the car while the 12v jump pack was still connected.
6) disconnected the jump pack and drove directly to the dealership (12 miles away)
7) had to jump the car while at the dealership because it didn’t charge enough. Drove the car back home but leaving it on for an hour.
—Keeping the window down tonight to make sure I can get in again.
I’ll update again if there are more issues.
That’s what I would do, the battery needs to charge for 3+ hours though to recover. I’d put it on a charger overnight.
 

azerik

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LOL! Whenever we would do a software rollout, we would do it Monday nights / Tuesday mornings.
Someone didn't get the memo..
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