Drive until empty

Mach-Lee

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As it's understood now that fully depleting the battery is a very bad idea, and can result in permanent damage. Is there a safe percentage to drop to without any damage? 5%, less?
I would say 0% is meant to be 0%. That is where the manufacturer says you should stop. Pulling into a charger at about 10% is ideal. 5% should be fine too for people that like to cut it really close.

But going below 0% or where you feel a strong power limit is when you can start messing up your battery from excessive discharge. I’ve never been below 5% and don’t plan to.
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I have been to 0 twice. Both times car said I had plenty of range to make it but I know that the range estimate and actual are very different based on weather and temps and such. First time I hit 0 with 6 miles to the EA charging station. I was still doing 60-65 but in the far right lane just to be safe for 5 of the 6 miles on the interstate around Fishers Indiana. Second time was the same trip and hit 0 with 3 miles to the same station. I have a Job 1 AWD standard range Mach E.

Waiting for delivery of my 2023 RWD extended range Mach E.
 

DYohn

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I tell everyone who asks "How much range does it have?" that it doesn't matter because it's not like an ICE car that you drive from full to empty and then refill the tank. You drive an EV from charger to charger to maintain the battery within an optimal state. So if you do it correctly, the range is infinite. And I tell them that as a fellow engineer.

:)
 

GT-Papa

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CarScanner app and an OBDII dongle.
In the learned collective opinion of this forum, what is the best OBD2 Bluetooth scanner and dongle to have for EVs?
Which one do you have for the charts you've shown? If I look on Amazon they're are many to choose from at many different price points.
 

generaltso

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In the learned collective opinion of this forum, what is the best OBD2 Bluetooth scanner and dongle to have for EVs?
Which one do you have for the charts you've shown? If I look on Amazon they're are many to choose from at many different price points.
In my opinion, the OBDLink MX+ is the best, though it’s far from the cheapest.
 


AZMMESTAR

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In my opinion, the OBDLink MX+ is the best, though it’s far from the cheapest.
So, is this device all that is needed to get data from the car to my iPhone?
Or, is additional software required?
Do you remove this device when not using to decrease any 12V drain?
 

generaltso

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So, is this device all that is needed to get data from the car to my iPhone?
Or, is additional software required?
Do you remove this device when not using to decrease any 12V drain?
You’ll also need an app like Car Scanner, which is free.

I don’t leave the adapter plugged in all the time, but you could with the one I linked since it has security built in and will automatically go to sleep.
 

AZMMESTAR

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You’ll also need an app like Car Scanner, which is free.

I don’t leave the adapter plugged in all the time, but you could with the one I linked since it has security built in and will automatically go to sleep.
The only "Car Scanner" (sic) app I see in the IOS Store is "Car Scanner ELM OBD2" which is not free. (`$70/year)
Am I looking at the wrong app?
TIA!
 

Howard

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Whenever I do a road trip, I have my OBDII reader (same one mentioned in earlier post) plugged in and connected to Car Scanner app on a cell phone. I mainly monitor kwh to empty and charging limit parameters. Using the kwh to empty and displayed efficiency and doing some quick math in my head, I can get a fairly accurate range estimate at any point between chargers. On the custom parameter page that I setup in Car Scanner, I can also monitor displayed and actual HVB SOC %. As discussed in a different thread, the displayed HVB SOC on IPC is higher than actual HVB SOC when the SOC is above approximately 45%. My experience with my two MME's is that between 85-100% SOC the difference ranges from 4-5.25%. As the HVB discharges, this gap gets smaller until you reach the low to mid 40's %; at this point the actual and displayed SOC % will be the same. As you continue to use the battery and the SOC drops below approximately 40%, the displayed SOC % will begin to be lower than the actual SOC and the gap between the two will continue to increase the lower the SOC gets. I have taken both of my MME's to 10% displayed SOC. The actual SOC on both cars was just over 3% higher than what was displayed on the IPC. I am pretty sure this has to do with the built in upper and lower end buffer. It keeps us from overcharging and excessively discharging the battery in most instances. This is main reason I monitor kwh to empty and use my displayed efficiency to calculate how far I can go between chargers on a road trip. Just some information for OP from someone who routinely takes 1,500-2,000 mile road trips.
 

Teslaeata

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it went 10 miles after 0 miles indicated.

Oh, c’mon, be realistic!

270 takes more than a working day? What a lightweight

I’d be thinking what will I do after lunch time with 270 miles on the clock?

And drive ā€˜til empty? There’s no other way to fly!!!!!
 

Teslaeata

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I would say 0% is meant to be 0%. That is where the manufacturer says you should stop. Pulling into a charger at about 10% is ideal. 5% should be fine too for people that like to cut it really close.

But going below 0% or where you feel a strong power limit is when you can start messing up your battery from excessive discharge. I’ve never been below 5% and don’t plan to.
Oh, where’s your sense of adventure?
 

Teslaeata

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The only "Car Scanner" (sic) app I see in the IOS Store is "Car Scanner ELM OBD2" which is not free. (`$70/year)
Am I looking at the wrong app?
TIA!
If you want to see meaningful information, you’ll nee do spend some money!

Then you can see array temperatures, individual cell voltages & kWh ratings etc.
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