Ford Connected Charge Station issue

[Nklem]

The top and bottom switches (#s 1, 5) should be OFF, ie. to the left, all others (#s 2 - 4) should be ON, ie. to the right, for the 50 amp circuit you have.

Mine is one of the newer builds with the gray dip switch block, it came with all switches ON.

Thank the manufacturer, Webasto for the confusion here, their logic markings are reversed, the way it is marked, 1 = off, 0 = on. This is all hashed out in the Sticky Thread, btw.

Ok, the “ other” new “updated“ manual says on on on off off for 40 amp. I give up. My son is bringing his clamp on amp meter home soon so I know if mine is correct. I have tentatively moved mine to the updated manual settings As a test.

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[skiingj]

The top and bottom switches (#s 1, 5) should be OFF, ie. to the left, all others (#s 2 - 4) should be ON, ie. to the right, for the 50 amp circuit you have.

Mine is one of the newer builds with the gray dip switch block, it came with all switches ON.

Thank the manufacturer, Webasto for the confusion here, their logic markings are reversed, the way it is marked, 1 = off, 0 = on. This is all hashed out in the Sticky Thread, btw.

More confusion. The sticky looks incorrect as well. What is listed in the " NEW EDIT: IMPORTANT NOTE " contradicts the text in the image.

 

[hawkeye3point1]

Ok, the “ other” new “updated“ manual says on on on off off for 40 amp. I give up. My son is bringing his clamp on amp meter home soon so I know if mine is correct. I have tentatively moved mine to the updated manual settings As a test.

Looks like my previous post was incorrect, assuming the correction insert is right, 1 -3 should be to the right, 4, 5 to the left for a 50A CB, apologize for that mix up. Thought I had this straight after studying the install thread, still not positive.

 

[Nklem]

Ok, the “ other” new “updated“ manual says on on on off off for 40 amp. I give up. My son is bringing his clamp on amp meter home soon so I know if mine is correct. I have tentatively moved mine to the updated manual settings As a test.

I Changed to the new settings the Op posted. I have a 30 amp breaker for this “free“ second unit. My son just checked with his Amp meter. 23.8 Amps.

So more than likely this was why my station has been hit and miss and gave me the dreaded “solid red” “call Ford“ alarm a while back while attempting to precondition Off the charger. Apparently there is a revised setting document and the Op posted it here, this needs to go in the sticky for sure.

I also have charged for 1 hour and pulled in 5kWh according to FP, which would be a gross of 5.7 kWh. And competed a charge to 90%. I guess I can trust this now, but not cool for the last 2 months with potentially incorrect settings.

As soon as the frost is gone, we will be upgrading to a 60 amp service and 60 amp breaker. Now, I am so glad I know the proper settings, if indeed they are correct.

 

[skiingj]

Does anyone know what each of the dip switches do? Seems like there are several configurations for the same amperage. Very confusing.

The stickies picture and edit are inaccurate.
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...n-installation-diy-instructions-writeup.3151/

My switches are all to the left and I have a 60A service. Just want to make sure I'm setup correctly.

 

[hawkeye3point1]

My switches are all to the left and I have a 60A service. Just want to make sure I'm setup correctly.

All left (off )= 48A charge on 60A breaker.

 

[TheVirtualTim]

More confusion. The sticky looks incorrect as well. What is listed in the " NEW EDIT: IMPORTANT NOTE " contradicts the text in the image.

That's why I edited and crossed it out. There's a LONG story behind this. I probably should not share it publicly.

Suffice it to say the updated instructions ... FOLLOW THE LABELING ON THE RED SWITCH BLOCK is what you need to do.

I'll have to take that photo down and replace it with a new one.

What adds to the confusion is that this setting actually WORKS correctly ... for ME. But that's because it's technically "invalid" and any "invalid" setting defaults to 48 amps ... and since I want 48 amps (I have a 60 amp circuit) it always did what I wanted.

I have one of the earliest units ... it was my understanding that later production runs corrected the labeling. If you have a new unit, the "0" and "1" on the green PCB may be reversed from what you see in this photo.

In the mind of some engineer at Webasto (they build these units for Ford and made the labeling) 0 = On. That's exactly backward, of course, but that's why it's labeled this way.

 

[TheVirtualTim]

I should mention that one reason a car might look like it's about to start a charge and then stop ... is IF the battery pack is already higher than what you've set as the max state of charge when at home.

You mentioned that you charge the car at work. If you don't specifically set a max-charge for each charging location the car will default to 100%.

E.g., I set my max-charge to 80% when at home. If I am out and plug into a charge, it may charge above that ... suppose it charges to 90% and I disconnected and drive home but arrive with say ... 82%. I can plug in, the car will shake hands with the EVSE and I'll hear the relays "click", the car acts like it's going to charge (the display on the wall-box pulsates blue momentarily) and then the car stops the charge because it's above 80% and the wall-box reverts to standby (solid blue - not pulsing).

 

[macchiaz-o]

Ok, the “ other” new “updated“ manual says on on on off off for 40 amp. I give up. My son is bringing his clamp on amp meter home soon so I know if mine is correct. I have tentatively moved mine to the updated manual settings As a test.

You can verify this without a clamp meter. In fact, it's better to do it the following way, since the clamp meter will only show you current flowing while charging. You should verify correct setup BEFORE charging your vehicle.

Configure it the way you need. Test (see below). If it's wrong due to confusing labelling, TURN OFF POWER, flip all the dip switch positions, and re-test.

To test:

1. Power on the EVSE and wait for it to initialize.

2. If you haven't done so yet, provision the station to your FordPass account. (Follow their instructions for this. It involves the Charge Station Setup app and the FordPass app.)

3. Open FordPass. Navigate to Account, then Charge Station.

4. Expand the section of the page called Settings.

5. Tap the "Edit" option next to Max Charge Current.

This opens a page called "Edit Max Charge Current." On this page, verify that the maximum number shown is as you expect. Mine station is on a 60 amp circuit, so I expect the figure to read 48 amps. If yours is on a 50A circuit, then you will verify that the upper limit for max charge current is 40 amps.

 

[Maquis]

You can verify this without a clamp meter. In fact, it's better to do it the following way, since the clamp meter will only show you current flowing while charging. You should verify correct setup BEFORE charging your vehicle.

Configure it the way you need. Test (see below). If it's wrong due to confusing labelling, TURN OFF POWER, flip all the dip switch positions, and re-test.

To test:

1. Power on the EVSE and wait for it to initialize.

2. If you haven't done so yet, provision the station to your FordPass account. (Follow their instructions for this. It involves the Charge Station Setup app and the FordPass app.)

3. Open FordPass. Navigate to Account, then Charge Station.

4. Expand the section of the page called Settings.

5. Tap the "Edit" option next to Max Charge Current.

This opens a page called "Edit Max Charge Current." On this page, verify that the maximum number shown is as you expect. Mine station is on a 60 amp circuit, so I expect the figure to read 48 amps. If yours is on a 50A circuit, then you will verify that the upper limit for max charge current is 40 amps.

I had wondered about that. Do we know for sure it works that way - Shows the max current = the dip switch setting? I thought possibly it would still show 48 but not allow you select anything above the setting.

Mine is also set to 48 on a 60A circuit and I’m too lazy to open it up for a test. ?

 

[macchiaz-o]

I had wondered about that. Do we know for sure it works that way - Shows the max current = the dip switch setting? I thought possibly it would still show 48 but not allow you select anything above the setting.

Mine is also set to 48 on a 60A circuit and I’m too lazy to open it up for a test. ?

I'm too lazy to test this, also. However in the screenshot from FordPass, it says "The ceiling on the number of amps you're allowed to choose will depend on how many amps are available from your home's electricity source."

Since the only way for the EVSE to know how many amps are available from my home is via the DIP switches, then I take it to mean that the ceiling shown (48A for you and me) is based on our DIP switch configurations.

 

[Maquis]

I'm too lazy to test this, also. However in the screenshot from FordPass, it says "The ceiling on the number of amps you're allowed to choose will depend on how many amps are available from your home's electricity source."

Since the only way for the EVSE to know how many amps are available from my home is via the DIP switches, then I take it to mean that the ceiling shown (48A for you and me) is based on our DIP switch configurations.

Right! No question that the max selectable setting will correspond to the DIP switch setting, but what I’m not sure about is how the app will represent that.

 

[skiingj]

What adds to the confusion is that this setting actually WORKS correctly ... for ME. But that's because it's technically "invalid" and any "invalid" setting defaults to 48 amps ... and since I want 48 amps (I have a 60 amp circuit) it always did what I wanted.

I have one of the earliest units ... it was my understanding that later production runs corrected the labeling. If you have a new unit, the "0" and "1" on the green PCB may be reversed from what you see in this photo.

Here is a picture of mine. Looks like I have an earlier unit. I bought it in June. So I should move D1 & D5 to the right ON (Red Block ON)? Yikes, crazy confusing, glad I got this for free from my city. lol

 

[hawkeye3point1]

I have one of the earliest units ... it was my understanding that later production runs corrected the labeling. If you have a new unit, the "0" and "1" on the green PCB may be reversed from what you see in this photo.

The newer model has a different DIP switch and no labeling on the PCB. I am assuming that the old and new units are electrically the same.

In addition to the confusion from the ambiguous markings, it also seems that the on/off switch settings in the original instructions were incorrect because the new manual has an errata sheet (shown in a previous post by the OP, thank you, btw) that indicates different settings.

Bottom line, if either switch 4 or 5 is ON (to the right) max. current is 48A.

If switches 4 and 5 are both OFF (to the left) max. current is adjustable according to switches 1 - 3 as shown in the errata table.

 

[Nklem]

The settings are so v

You can verify this without a clamp meter. In fact, it's better to do it the following way, since the clamp meter will only show you current flowing while charging. You should verify correct setup BEFORE charging your vehicle.

Configure it the way you need. Test (see below). If it's wrong due to confusing labelling, TURN OFF POWER, flip all the dip switch positions, and re-test.

To test:

1. Power on the EVSE and wait for it to initialize.

2. If you haven't done so yet, provision the station to your FordPass account. (Follow their instructions for this. It involves the Charge Station Setup app and the FordPass app.)

3. Open FordPass. Navigate to Account, then Charge Station.

4. Expand the section of the page called Settings.

5. Tap the "Edit" option next to Max Charge Current.

This opens a page called "Edit Max Charge Current." On this page, verify that the maximum number shown is as you expect. Mine station is on a 60 amp circuit, so I expect the figure to read 48 amps. If yours is on a 50A circuit, then you will verify that the upper limit for max charge current is 40 amps.

Yes this works but could be risk if plugged in, charging or preconditioning and the users dip switches are wrong. If you do not have a meter or electrical knowledge do this.…..But unplug your car first.

Here is what mine did and it confirms the 24AMP settings via the new Ford Manual Addendum is indeed correct.

Any set point I attempt above 24 AMPs gives this error message.

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