mkhuffman

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I am interested in buying just the front coilovers. Is that even possible?
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21st Century Pony

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I am interested in buying just the front coilovers. Is that even possible?
Hmmm... I would be careful. Spring rate and therefore car geometry is normally matched between front and rear units.
 

ElectrikPony

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I am interested in buying just the front coilovers. Is that even possible?
they come all 4 in a kit. There isnā€™t even a price for Just the front. Youā€™d have to contact KW to see if they would do a one off for you.

If they would do this though the spring and damper rates are going to be way less in the rear of the car. This is actually going to make the bounce worse as weight transfers from a stiff front and a less dampened rear.

Ford says because of the battery weight more bias toward the rear of the car itā€™s heavier. This is why you want more dampening in the rear of the car. What you would be doing is exactly the opposite .
 
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connoisseurr

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connoisseurr

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ORT Motorsports let me know there is a supply of KW V3 kits in the states with a national distributor, so for those on the fence of ordering, or perhaps who didn't want a long wait, you can get a set rather quickly. I believe ORT is selling for $3k shipped.
 

markboris

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markboris

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Mark,
Here is the rack sheet.

Ford Mustang Mach-E KW V3 Coilover Suspension Released for Mach-E F3480357-9AD5-434F-9105-41FCAEEE85C1
Sorry Randy, I thought you were looking for a specific amount of camber, not that you were having issues with it. You can adjust the front camber somewhat but your left side is out quite a bit. Once you get the camber close, the caster will be more inline.

For now you need to remove and discard the two large bolts (and nuts) that hold on the lower part of the strut to the wheel knuckle. They are splined bolts and you replace them with non-splined ones. I don't remember the size off hand but can get you that info if you want. This will allow you to gain a little more negative camber but only about -.5 which won't help you much on the left front. In other cars, I have also enlarged the holes that the upper strut mount bolts up to to gain another -.5 camber. Didn't have to do that in the Mach-E though. Just replacing the splined bolts got me to the negative camber I wanted. I checked with Ground Control Suspension Systems as I have used their adjustable camber plates before but they don't have any for the Mach-E at this time. Hopefully there is a company that does or will soon.

I generally like to run around -1.5 up front and -2 in the rear.

This is my rack sheet

colorD.jpeg
 

ElectrikPony

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For now you need to remove and discard the two large bolts (and nuts) that hold on the lower part of the strut to the wheel knuckle. They are splined bolts and you replace them with non-splined ones. I don't remember the size off hand but can get you that info if you want. This will allow you to gain a little more negative camber but only about -.5 which won't help you much on the left front. In other cars, I have also enlarged the holes that the upper strut mount bolts up to to gain another -.5 camber. Didn't have to do that in the Mach-E though. Just replacing the splined bolts got me to the negative camber I wanted. I checked with Ground Control Suspension Systems as I have used their adjustable camber plates before but they don't have any for the Mach-E at this time. Hopefully there is a company that does or will soon.

I generally like to run around -1.5 up front and -2 in the rear.

This is my rack sheet

colorD.jpeg
@
Sorry Randy, I thought you were looking for a specific amount of camber, not that you were having issues with it. You can adjust the front camber somewhat but your left side is out quite a bit. Once you get the camber close, the caster will be more inline.

For now you need to remove and discard the two large bolts (and nuts) that hold on the lower part of the strut to the wheel knuckle. They are splined bolts and you replace them with non-splined ones. I don't remember the size off hand but can get you that info if you want. This will allow you to gain a little more negative camber but only about -.5 which won't help you much on the left front. In other cars, I have also enlarged the holes that the upper strut mount bolts up to to gain another -.5 camber. Didn't have to do that in the Mach-E though. Just replacing the splined bolts got me to the negative camber I wanted. I checked with Ground Control Suspension Systems as I have used their adjustable camber plates before but they don't have any for the Mach-E at this time. Hopefully there is a company that does or will soon.

I generally like to run around -1.5 up front and -2 in the rear.

This is my rack sheet

Ford Mustang Mach-E KW V3 Coilover Suspension Released for Mach-E colorD
Mark,
Much like Michael mc Donald ā€œI keep forgettingā€ that you have a GTPE with the stock magnaride. I need to compare with a non-GTPE who installed the same coil overs for a fair comparison.

The suspension shop suggest this oblong bolt inside another bolt. It allows for additional adjustment.
 

markboris

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I donā€™t have the KW kit, only the Magneride suspension. However no matter what suspension the Mach-E has, the alignment specs are all the same. I would think the KW kit should fall within those specs too once installed. Want to mention that the standard and magneride struts/shocks are all the same size, configuration, mounting, etc. There is no difference between them except the way they work internally.

That said, installing the KW kit on any Mach-E including the GTPE should yield the same alignment specs.
 

ElectrikPony

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@markboris do you know what diameter the bolt is that connects the strut to the knuckle?

Someone said the Mach e may use the same bolt as a 2015+ mustang. If this is true they make special camber bolts that will help correct my alignment.

- Randy
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