Mileage Complaint

[BalsaDust]

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[Njia]

How much reduction did you see in the cold (in NY and wondering how bad it will be - estimating 40% reduction right now.

Depends on the outside temperature, but 40-45% is typical.

 

[tymons]

Well, yes and no. Yes, the range meter (which we call the GOM for Guess-O-Meter) will change as you get more driving history on it. But even after that, it tends to be a bit conservative, and tends to jump around some. Remember that it's only an estimate, not what your real range will be. That's because there's no way to know what your range really is, since mileage varies greatly based on driving factors. High speed uses more power. Cold outside temps use more power. Headwinds use more power. Elevation climb (even modest) uses more power. Wet roads use more power. Range can easily vary +/- 20% or more.

So yes, your 209 will likely improve over time. But no, it's not your actual range anyway, just a loose estimate.

Thank you for the explanation. That all makes perfect sense. I suppose I'll have to figure it out with time and see how to make the most out of the battery.

Did anyone test how the range get's impacted by using/not using 1-pedal drive? I read on another thread that someone did 300miles (SR RWD) without 1-pedal drive, so it looked very promising.

 

[Shayne]

Did anyone test how the range get's impacted by using/not using 1-pedal drive? I read on another thread that someone did 300miles (SR RWD) without 1-pedal drive, so it looked very promising.

Shouldn't matter. The brake pedal uses regen first for slowing down, just like 1PD does. Only if the brake pedal is pressed hard are the friction brakes supposed to kick in. For normal braking, it should be using 100% regen (until below roughly 3 MPH where regen ends).

I do not know if you start to roller coaster it through hilly terrain if you would gain some range. But if you are going to slow down at the same points it should not make too much of a difference as Tim noted on the previous page. I just leave it on cruise and 1 pedal as it is more relaxing not using a brake pedal.

Maybe the exact same 100 mile trip (weather wind temp) with and without 1pd. Or switch back and forth for a few miles. Letting it speed up down and slow down up when in coast (baby the tranny type of driving). Then cruise in 1pd and see if it is worth the hassle. The consumption screen may give you a rough indication if it is repeatable. Would be interesting to know if there is any difference and the extent. Maybe it is different for a lot like their range and depends how they drive with 1pd off and on? If so a self test may yield the most informative results? Not sure if you drove it in the exact same way with it off and on if there would be a huge difference. Thinking Tim is right.

I have not read the thread you note a link would be appreciated.

If you want 300 miles driving it no faster than 50 mph should do it no problems under good conditions. 80% to 10% is 0.7*300.

 

[dbsb3233]

I do not know if you start to roller coaster it through hilly terrain if you would gain some range.

That should be worse, not better. While regen is pretty efficient at recovering momentum energy, it's still not 100%. That means it uses more extra energy to go up that hill than you recover in regen coming back down it, relative to it just being a perfectly flat road.

 

[Shayne]

That should be worse, not better. While regen is pretty efficient at recovering momentum energy, it's still not 100%. That means it uses more extra energy to go up that hill than you recover in regen coming back down it, relative to it just being a perfectly flat road.

You will always gain less than use due to efficiency. I would agree at the same speed but not for sure if you go up the hills slower. Slow speed is less.

 

[dbsb3233]

You will always gain less than use due to efficiency. I would agree at the same speed but not for sure if you go up the hills slower. Slow speed is less.

Oh sure. I just mean all else being equal. But if it means a lower average speed, absolutely. Speed is one of the biggest ways to gain/lose mileage.

Elevation is probably the biggest I've noticed. Driving through CO/UT, there's a lot of significant elevation changes. For entire drive legs (100-150 miles each), I'll get as low as 2.2 MPK (mi/kWh) on some and as high as 3.6 on others. With elevation gain or loss being the biggest factor. Speed next, especially as we get above 70 MPH.

 

[GoGoGadgetMachE]

TIL the UK abbreviation for "miles" is not "mi" but "mls".

 

[Deanobeano]

Hi
The European spec or maybe the non first edition, is different,.
The Range for the UK AWD extended edition is definitely 335 on the Ford UK Web site along with a 0-60 of 5.8sec which I believe is also different to the US spec. I also believe the European version has different suspension tuning for European roads, but that may not be true.
As for the actual range 292 is the best I had on the GOM so far but It's only done 135 miles so far so who knows how true this is.

We picked ours up last week and it was fully charged from ford. It had 270 miles remaining on it so I asked them about it as it's supposed to be 335 as advertised. They said it was because it has not really been driven yet.. not sure how accurate that is because I thought if it was fully charged then it should display the full miles.
Also I have noticed the suspension to be very hard!

 

[Kabish]

I thought if it was fully charged then it should display the full miles.

Not the way the GOM (Guess O Meter) works. It's not like an ICE car, that meter is in no way or shape accurate the majority of the time. It will adjust as you drive it more and more and will get "closer" to accurate millage, but there are just too may factors that make up the "range".

 

[Trevor]

We picked ours up last week and it was fully charged from ford. It had 270 miles remaining on it so I asked them about it as it's supposed to be 335 as advertised. They said it was because it has not really been driven yet.. not sure how accurate that is because I thought if it was fully charged then it should display the full miles.
Also I have noticed the suspension to be very hard!

You will never see the 'sold as' figure. Possibly 80 or 90% of it.

 

[Shayne]

Oh sure. I just mean all else being equal. But if it means a lower average speed, absolutely. Speed is one of the biggest ways to gain/lose mileage.

Elevation is probably the biggest I've noticed. Driving through CO/UT, there's a lot of significant elevation changes. For entire drive legs (100-150 miles each), I'll get as low as 2.2 MPK (mi/kWh) on some and as high as 3.6 on others. With elevation gain or loss being the biggest factor. Speed next, especially as we get above 70 MPH.

I was noting not using regen as much on descents and hitting the bottom at a higher speed than the same 1pd average you are trying to test. Then hitting the top of the hills at a slower speed to obtain the same cruise average. Ever blow a transmission in the middle of nowhere? As you noted energy is lost during the regen process how much real life I have no idea. Hitting the bottom faster the air resistance is increased thou which may offset the lose in efficiency of regening. I have seen a big impact with a good head and tail wind lately (25%). Cold, elevation you know and yes agree the difference between 65 and 70 mph is noticeable.

The only thing you can take out without 1pd on is regen and if you hit your brakes it is similar to 1pd to a point. Therefore you need to use regen (brakes) less to see anything noticeable. In cruise going down hills it regens to maintain an average speed which you can remove and met the same average speed more erratically. Lots of range when warm here and I will most likely put it on cruise at around 70.

You will never see the 'sold as' figure. Possibly 80 or 90% of it.

Not all if they drive it around town slow 40 50 mph max they will be well over 100%.

 

[JRT]

Also I have noticed the suspension to be very hard!

This thread has beaten the horse to death, the testing your government require give the range very high. Now the hard suspension I've read that export MME had suspension blocks between the springs that dealers are not removing, look for something stuck between the springs, maybe blue or red plastic blocks. If not then maybe the firmish suspension is just not good for your roads.

 

[Trevor]

This thread has beaten the horse to death, the testing your government require give the range very high. Now the hard suspension I've read that export MME had suspension blocks between the springs that dealers are not removing, look for something stuck between the springs, maybe blue or red plastic blocks. If not then maybe the firmish suspension is just not good for your roads.

It is in the UK section, so maybe it was meant for the UK audience.

 

[mkhuffman]

It is in the UK section, so maybe it was meant for the UK audience.

Yes but it appears overseas models (UK, EU, etc.) may have suspension blocks inserted due to the longer shipment process. The bounce could be due to the dealer failing to remove the blocks.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...with-the-mach-e-what-do-i-do.4642/post-216786

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