Remotely Accessing LV Battery Voltage from Ford.com with Chrome Browser

[first_EV_is_a_MME]

If someone has any JS background they could probably write a Tampermonkey script to show this back on the page again.

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[bpbailey]

Hmm, if after selecting Go To Vehicle the page was somehow refreshed again the status will disappear? It's only loaded once after Go To Vehicle. Close the page and try starting from the beginning following the steps in order. Not sure otherwise. I did try it on two computers.

Couldn't get it to work on Safari, but I followed the Chrome instructions and it worked perfectly! Thank you!

 

[CherryBomb]

Also added 2.5” hole plugs over the LVB jump points.

What hole plugs did you use?

The 12V battery hack worked for me. But I find it easier to use an OBD2 scanner. You can get a lot more information than just the battery voltage

 

[dtbaker61]

Remotely Accessing LV Battery Voltage from Ford.com with Chrome

Thanks to Lars/Holy Driver for this procedure: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...de-the-car-dead-12v-battery.41505/post-893115 . Given that Ford removed access to LVB status I thought it might be useful to write this up for Chrome.

Note this is the voltage when last connected to the Ford server. If the car is on or is charging it will show the 15V or so charge voltage. I found that an unlock/lock in the FordPass app will refresh the voltage state. Note that some systems in the car will be active when reading the state so the voltage level will be under a slight load and won’t be the same as an open circuit reading. My new battery reads 12.1V to 13.4V depending on the load and charge state. I don’t know if the LV battery health is available. Perhaps that’s what the entry Oil Health means ? ?

In Chrome:

1. Go to https://www.ford.com/
2. Type the F12 Key to open developer toolbox
3. Select Network and Fetch/XHR (might have to poke around for these but they will stay selected next time toolbox is opened)
4. On ford.com login at the upper right corner person icon
5. Again in the upper right person icon select your_user_name account
6. On ford.com under your VIN select Go To Vehicle
7. In the developer toolbox select the Name heading so the list will sort alphabetically.
8. Scroll down to S’ and select status?countryCode=us
9. You might have to select Preview
10. Open up vehiclestatus
11. Open up battery
12. Magically you get: batteryStatusActual: {value: "12.4375", status: null, timestamp: "2025-01-11 15:22:21Z"}

Timestamp is in Zulu or GMT. Let me know if I made any errors in the procedure.

Edit: The FordPass unlock/lock status refresh can be done anytime before selecting Go To Vehicle but you might have to wait for the server to update. To get another refresh you may need to go back to the login step because of cache effects.

I’m new to the Mach-e world (used 2021 Sel SR AWD job 2, iconic silver) and want to thank everyone on the forum for all the helpful posts. I installed the Torklift EchoHitch and wiring harness. Also added 2.5” hole plugs over the LVB jump points. The 2.5” (-) hole also has room to access the HVB cutoff. I preemptively replaced the LVB at 3 years because the car sat on the dealer lot for 4 or 5 months and the LVB was also likely chronically under-charged by the previous owner’s low usage.

while it is nice to see the 12v actual voltage, it really doesn't do you any good in evaluating the state of health of the 12v.

what WOULD be helpful is a log or indicator of when the LV ever drops to 12.1, or when the dc-dc had to come on when the MME was "off".... this would be an indicator that capacity is reduced.

 

[SteveMach-ee]

while it is nice to see the 12v actual voltage, it really doesn't do you any good in evaluating the state of health of the 12v.

what WOULD be helpful is a log or indicator of when the LV ever drops to 12.1.... this would be an indicator that capacity is reduced.

Yeah, I know I didn't make that clear in the post. It's only a data point. I assume that 12.1 volt worry limit is longer term unloaded? I've seen the new battery go to 12.1 volts under some load.

The remote reading ability kept the OCD in me from running down to the garage, popping the frunk and hole covers, getting out the multimeter and waiting for some systems to go back to sleep. Did help to convince me it was time to change out the battery. I''ll probably install a bluetooth voltmeter at some point. I'm sure I don't drive enough right now to keep it properly charged.

Does anyone have a reference to an algorithm for determining state of health? I will look at some point. Knowing me if I find it I will put together a microcontroller (have lots of ESP32-S3s) to measure voltage, calculate SOH and ping me if it gets worrying ?.

 

[SteveMach-ee]

What hole plugs did you use?

The 12V battery hack worked for me. But I find it easier to use an OBD2 scanner. You can get a lot more information than just the battery voltage

Agree on the OBD2 scanner. Will get one at some point.

I used this plug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQIY/ which was posted in one of the threads. Two for $7. Definitely take the panel out and support it with a wood block for drilling.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Remotely Accessing LV Battery Voltage from Ford.com with Chrome

Thanks to Lars/Holy Driver for this procedure: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...de-the-car-dead-12v-battery.41505/post-893115 . Given that Ford removed access to LVB status I thought it might be useful to write this up for Chrome.

Note this is the voltage when last connected to the Ford server. If the car is on or is charging it will show the 15V or so charge voltage. I found that an unlock/lock in the FordPass app will refresh the voltage state. Note that some systems in the car will be active when reading the state so the voltage level will be under a slight load and won’t be the same as an open circuit reading. My new battery reads 12.1V to 13.4V depending on the load and charge state. I don’t know if the LV battery health is available. Perhaps that’s what the entry Oil Health means ? ?

In Chrome:

1. Go to https://www.ford.com/
2. Type the F12 Key to open developer toolbox
3. Select Network and Fetch/XHR (might have to poke around for these but they will stay selected next time toolbox is opened)
4. On ford.com login at the upper right corner person icon
5. Again in the upper right person icon select your_user_name account
6. On ford.com under your VIN select Go To Vehicle
7. In the developer toolbox select the Name heading so the list will sort alphabetically.
8. Scroll down to S’ and select status?countryCode=us
9. You might have to select Preview
10. Open up vehiclestatus
11. Open up battery
12. Magically you get: batteryStatusActual: {value: "12.4375", status: null, timestamp: "2025-01-11 15:22:21Z"}

Timestamp is in Zulu or GMT. Let me know if I made any errors in the procedure.

Edit: The FordPass unlock/lock status refresh can be done anytime before selecting Go To Vehicle but you might have to wait for the server to update. To get another refresh you may need to go back to the login step because of cache effects.

I’m new to the Mach-e world (used 2021 Sel SR AWD job 2, iconic silver) and want to thank everyone on the forum for all the helpful posts. I installed the Torklift EchoHitch and wiring harness. Also added 2.5” hole plugs over the LVB jump points. The 2.5” (-) hole also has room to access the HVB cutoff. I preemptively replaced the LVB at 3 years because the car sat on the dealer lot for 4 or 5 months and the LVB was also likely chronically under-charged by the previous owner’s low usage.

I'm sorry, but what is the point of doing this? The voltage is going to vary a lot and not tell you much useful information. You're not going to be able to detect if the battery is dying ahead of time. They can just go dead suddenly even if the last reported voltage is good.

Battery voltage is simply a "comfort metric" that gives a false sense of security.

If anyone is this paranoid, I think they should just replace their 12V battery rather than worry about it constantly.

 

[Stanmckinney]

Can someone recommend an odd2 scanner, not dongle that doesn’t cost an arm and leg and could be used once in awhile to test this?

 

[SteveMach-ee]

I'm sorry, but what is the point of doing this? The voltage is going to vary a lot and not tell you much useful information. You're not going to be able to detect if the battery is dying ahead of time. They can just go dead suddenly even if the last reported voltage is good.

Battery voltage is simply a "comfort metric" that gives a false sense of security.

If anyone is this paranoid, I think they should just replace their 12V battery rather than worry about it constantly.

Yes, it's paranoid, yes I preemptively replaced it, and oh yes it's a comfort metric!

But yes Mach-Lee I definitely agree. I probably should have put more of these caveats in the post and renamed it.

Probably should spend my energy obsessing over MY2021 OTAs.

 

[dtbaker61]

Yeah, I know I didn't make that clear in the post. It's only a data point. I assume that 12.1 volt worry limit is longer term unloaded? I've seen the new battery go to 12.1 volts under some load.

yes... unloaded while the MME is "sleeping".

I'd say that if the dc-dc comes on overnight to charge the 12v, it is an indicator that the 12v is losing capacity and will need to be replaced soon. under normal circumstances, a 12v with decent capacity remaining will not need a charge to make it through the night.

only exception of course would be a midnite snack after a long OTA update...

 

[Space_Pony]

Can someone recommend an odd2 scanner, not dongle that doesn’t cost an arm and leg and could be used once in awhile to test this?

I bought this one and it works for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Snakebitten]

Problem with the OBD reading for voltage is that you'll be reading the voltage of the DC/DC converter (digital alternator), rather than the true static-resting voltage of that little H3 AGM under the hood.

I'm literally sitting in my recliner watching the game. The car is parked just outdoors. It hasn't moved all day, although I did wake it up once to fetch my laptop out of it.

So as I type, I open an app on this phone.......

$25 Bluetooth voltmeter permanently installed in the car

 

[Stanmckinney]

How is this installed

 

[Snakebitten]

How is this installed

Physically attached to the battery. It's just a tiny low draw voltmeter that communicates over Bluetooth to your device. And the app downloads the voltage logging since the last Bluetooth connection. It allows you to review the voltage per day/week/month

Today's logs up until a few minutes ago (below)

Red voltage variations were just after midnight to about 4am. I honestly have no clue what activity is behind those current draws. But the 2 draws lasted for several minutes each and drew the resting voltage down considerably.

The 2 green circles were me walking past the vehicle with my phone today. PAAK woke the car. (11am & 5pm)

Yellow circle was me opening the door to retrieve the laptop.

The voltmeter is sold under multiple listings

 

[Oldlawman]

Remotely Accessing LV Battery Voltage from Ford.com with Chrome

Thanks to Lars/Holy Driver for this procedure: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...de-the-car-dead-12v-battery.41505/post-893115 . Given that Ford removed access to LVB status I thought it might be useful to write this up for Chrome.

Note this is the voltage when last connected to the Ford server. If the car is on or is charging it will show the 15V or so charge voltage. I found that an unlock/lock in the FordPass app will refresh the voltage state. Note that some systems in the car will be active when reading the state so the voltage level will be under a slight load and won’t be the same as an open circuit reading. My new battery reads 12.1V to 13.4V depending on the load and charge state. I don’t know if the LV battery health is available. Perhaps that’s what the entry Oil Health means ? ?

In Chrome:

1. Go to https://www.ford.com/
2. Type the F12 Key to open developer toolbox
3. Select Network and Fetch/XHR (might have to poke around for these but they will stay selected next time toolbox is opened)
4. On ford.com login at the upper right corner person icon
5. Again in the upper right person icon select your_user_name account
6. On ford.com under your VIN select Go To Vehicle
7. In the developer toolbox select the Name heading so the list will sort alphabetically.
8. Scroll down to S’ and select status?countryCode=us
9. You might have to select Preview
10. Open up vehiclestatus
11. Open up battery
12. Magically you get: batteryStatusActual: {value: "12.4375", status: null, timestamp: "2025-01-11 15:22:21Z"}

Timestamp is in Zulu or GMT. Let me know if I made any errors in the procedure.

Edit: The FordPass unlock/lock status refresh can be done anytime before selecting Go To Vehicle but you might have to wait for the server to update. To get another refresh you may need to go back to the login step because of cache effects.

I’m new to the Mach-e world (used 2021 Sel SR AWD job 2, iconic silver) and want to thank everyone on the forum for all the helpful posts. I installed the Torklift EchoHitch and wiring harness. Also added 2.5” hole plugs over the LVB jump points. The 2.5” (-) hole also has room to access the HVB cutoff. I preemptively replaced the LVB at 3 years because the car sat on the dealer lot for 4 or 5 months and the LVB was also likely chronically under-charged by the previous owner’s low usage.

Does this only work for Chrome please?

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