Simplified "slide out" method for replacing 12V battery (new to me)

[luckie]

I think this is worthy of dissemination. Sorry if it is old news.

Here on macheforum.com several members (@rbertonieresr, @Schmedlack, @FordMachEGo, @txaggies07), just pointed out a method to replace the Mach-E 12V battery without removing the frunk tub and pointed to a video on YouTube where it is used at the end, starting around the 5:30 minute mark.

TLDR: Instead of removing the entire frunk tub, you remove a bolt and "sway" the sway bar?
(Please Mach-Lee and other respected elders review and provide feedback).

@txaggies07 added
"go to 5:30 and watch it.
Steps
1) remove cover to get to battery
2) remove lug nut from strut bar thing and push forward
3) remove negative terminal
4) remove two bolts behind battery (base of battery, towards windshield). I think they are 8mm.
5) remove thing the bolts were holding
6) slide battery towards windshield
7) remove positive terminal
8) lift battery straight up
9) reverse everything with a new battery"

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...d-up-a-2021-warnings-galore.37936/post-835765

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[Mach-Lee]

Yes you can remove the strut brace, slide the battery aft, and try to pull it up through the opening (tight fit). If that’s too difficult to pull out, then remove the frunk tub.

 

[rreddy3]

I think this is worthy of dissemination. Sorry if it is old news.

Here on macheforum.com several members (@rbertonieresr, @Schmedlack, @FordMachEGo, @txaggies07), just pointed out a method to replace the Mach-E 12V battery without removing the frunk tub and pointed to a video on YouTube where it is used at the end, starting around the 5:30 minute mark.

TLDR: Instead of removing the entire frunk tub, you remove a bolt and "sway" the sway bar?
(Please Mach-Lee and other respected elders review and provide feedback).

@txaggies07 added
"go to 5:30 and watch it.
Steps
1) remove cover to get to battery
2) remove lug nut from strut bar thing and push forward
3) remove negative terminal
4) remove two bolts behind battery (base of battery, towards windshield). I think they are 8mm.
5) remove thing the bolts were holding
6) slide battery towards windshield
7) remove positive terminal
8) lift battery straight up
9) reverse everything with a new battery"

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...d-up-a-2021-warnings-galore.37936/post-835765

One thing not shown in the video (fhere may be other things) is loosening the strut tower brace nut on the passenger side. I would think that’s a necessary step. Perhaps you could simply put enough force on the other end to swing the bar outnof the way, but I wouldn’t do it that way. I notice markboris siad his strut tower brace has three bolts / nuts each side. Sounds like Mark installed the Steeda brace on his car to better handle the corkscrew at Laguna Seca no doubt!

 

[zvez]

It doesn't look like pulling out the frunk tub is that big a deal? Or am I missing something?

 

[ack154]

It doesn't look like pulling out the frunk tub is that big a deal? Or am I missing something?

I was thinking the same thing. I don't know if it's worse on the earlier models but I've already pulled mine out once and it was cake.

 

[luckie]

I was thinking the same thing. I don't know if it's worse on the earlier models but I've already pulled mine out once and it was cake.

Well... the official procedure for replacing the 12V battery looks like this (link to macheforum post with Ford protocol images):
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/official-instructions-to-replace-the-12v-battery-lvb.3882/

Or this, link to a mechanic, with *all* the optimal tools and experience, performing it on YouTube.

 

[dtbaker61]

I think this is worthy of dissemination. Sorry if it is old news.

Here on macheforum.com several members (@rbertonieresr, @Schmedlack, @FordMachEGo, @txaggies07), just pointed out a method to replace the Mach-E 12V battery without removing the frunk tub and pointed to a video on YouTube where it is used at the end, starting around the 5:30 minute mark.

yes, it is possible to slide the battery back and out without removing Frunk tub.... BUT, I would recommend replacing with FoMoCo battery for exact replacement with the correct 'foot', fit and warranty. Order from RockAuto.com if you want to DIY it.

1) remove cover to get to battery
2) remove lug nut from strut bar thing and push forward
3) remove negative terminal
4) remove two bolts behind battery (base of battery, towards windshield). I think they are 8mm.
---> don't drop them behind! (<i>10mm I think</i)
5) remove thing the bolts were holding
---> ('tiedown')
6) slide battery towards windshield
7) remove positive terminal
8) lift battery straight up
9) reverse everything with a new battery"

...I removed tub because I wanted to add my heavy 12v cables/lugs to the 12v connection points and needed better access to the positive terminal cap and lug coming from 12v+ post.

 

[dtbaker61]

It doesn't look like pulling out the frunk tub is that big a deal? Or am I missing something?

it's pretty easy.... maybe 20 minutes. 10mm socket and a screwdriver

 

[Schmedlack]

yes, it is possible to slide the battery back and out without removing Frunk tub.... BUT, I would recommend replacing with FoMoCo battery for exact replacement with the correct 'foot', fit and warranty. Order from RockAuto.com if you want to DIY it.

1) remove cover to get to battery
2) remove lug nut from strut bar thing and push forward
3) remove negative terminal
4) remove two bolts behind battery (base of battery, towards windshield). I think they are 8mm.
---> don't drop them behind! (<i>10mm I think</i)
5) remove thing the bolts were holding
---> ('tiedown')
6) slide battery towards windshield
7) remove positive terminal
8) lift battery straight up
9) reverse everything with a new battery"

...I removed tub because I wanted to add my heavy 12v cables/lugs to the 12v connection points and needed better access to the positive terminal cap and lug coming from 12v+ post.

One tool which could really help is a battery carry strap. I have used one for decades. These make every battery swap easier. If I DIY my LVB, I will use this tool.

 

[dtbaker61]

One tool which could really help is a battery carry strap. I have used one for decades. These make every battery swap easier. If I DIY my LVB, I will use this tool.

yes, helpful, but the little 35ah battery is not nearly as heavy as a 'regular size' battery.

 

[Schmedlack]

yes, helpful, but the little 35ah battery is not nearly as heavy as a 'regular size' battery.

Getting a "good grip" on the battery is important to me. I'll use anything which helps.

 

[Triggerhappy007]

I think this is worthy of dissemination. Sorry if it is old news.

Here on macheforum.com several members (@rbertonieresr, @Schmedlack, @FordMachEGo, @txaggies07), just pointed out a method to replace the Mach-E 12V battery without removing the frunk tub and pointed to a video on YouTube where it is used at the end, starting around the 5:30 minute mark.

TLDR: Instead of removing the entire frunk tub, you remove a bolt and "sway" the sway bar?
(Please Mach-Lee and other respected elders review and provide feedback).

@txaggies07 added
"go to 5:30 and watch it.
Steps
1) remove cover to get to battery
2) remove lug nut from strut bar thing and push forward
3) remove negative terminal
4) remove two bolts behind battery (base of battery, towards windshield). I think they are 8mm.
5) remove thing the bolts were holding
6) slide battery towards windshield
7) remove positive terminal
8) lift battery straight up
9) reverse everything with a new battery"

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...d-up-a-2021-warnings-galore.37936/post-835765

In the video, she's replacing the agm battery with a lead acid one. I thought it's not recommended to do that since the voltage is a little different.

 

[Schmedlack]

In the video, she's replacing the agm battery with a lead acid one. I thought it's not recommended to do that since the voltage is a little different.

There are two problems - (this was discussed in an earlier thread). First, our cars need an AGM battery. Second, in the video, the battery is not fastened in well because the replacement does not have that little protruding "foot" which is used to clamp it in. The forum "experts" all confirmed this.

 

[markboris]

As Mach-Lee mentioned earlier, it is possible to slide out the battery aft by removing one side of the strut bar but it won't just pop out as easy as it is shown in the video. As Lee said, it's a tight space and you have to lift straight up while keeping the battery cables out of the way with the hood right above that area. In my car, having the Steeda strut brace which is secured with three bolts on each side, the entire brace must be removed. It's easier and faster for me to remove the frunk tub (don't have to touch my strut bar) plus you have much more room to lift the battery out (forward).

I timed myself removing the frunk tub and it took about 2 1/2 minutes:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0c5p3ichEIQlg

Plenty of room to take out the battery once the frunk tub is removed:

 

[Schmedlack]

Impressed. It would take me at least 20 minutes to locate the little plastic clips which went flying all over. I think I will do it the way you demonstrated.

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