Starting to get worried now lol

[Mopey]

.... I guess I won’t complain as much when my new exotic comes in next year

You're getting a giraffe?

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[jlauro]

This dude is doing 100% to basically dead every day lol Still harder on the battery than 90%, but if you need 100% then you need 100%. The possible alternative of charging to 90% then using a DCFC every day I would think would put more stress on the battery than just charging it on a level 2 to "100%". /shrug

Probably right, although if went from 20%-60% and charged 65-80% on a DC fast charger daily I think that would be better on the battery than draining the batter below 20% daily. That would get annoying having to DCFC every day.

Ideally would be to get a L2 (or even a L1) charger at work, and maybe using a DCFC on days not able to plug in for whatever reason.

 

[JcMarin]

I guess I won’t complain as much when my new exotic comes in next year

You're getting a giraffe?

Down here exotics usually live in beach apartments bought by their sugar Mama or Sugar Dady and they cost way more than a Mach E in the long run...

 

[Thunderbirdsoundsbetter]

One more item that I hadn't seen mentioned- there's a driver history in the settings. Reset that and the range might mysteriously improve. Another Mach E owner at work lost range (about 40 miles) after not even 3 weeks of driving and when he reset the driver history the range returned to its original higher level.

I just did this. Hopefully it does something. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Thunderbirdsoundsbetter]

I think he is perfect fit for EV, the problem that the owner can't charge at work. You really save on gas if you need to travel that much

I saved a lot on gas. I used to fill up every other day at around 50$ each. Even if they installed chargers at work, I’m pretty sure some people would leave their car charging all day so it would be a fight to see who gets there first. There’s a lot of teslas already

 

[Thunderbirdsoundsbetter]

This dude is doing 100% to basically dead every day lol Still harder on the battery than 90%, but if you need 100% then you need 100%. The possible alternative of charging to 90% then using a DCFC every day I would think would put more stress on the battery than just charging it on a level 2 to "100%". /shrug

I was fine during the summer as I would have around 60-80 miles left per trip. Now it’s annoying as that went out the window. I just didn’t expect this much of a drop at 40 degrees.

 

[Thunderbirdsoundsbetter]

You're getting a giraffe?

Lol

 

[Thunderbirdsoundsbetter]

It is your car, drive it however you want to. However you did come to a forum and ask a question/for advice, so you are going to get that. The reasons why you shouldn't charge to 100% have been stated in this thread and numerous others. The advice given has been to help your ownership experience.

I have no choice but to. I need a cushion. I was fine in the summer, but now it’s concerning especially since I didn’t expect a drop this big at current temps. I don’t know anyone around me that has the same concerns as I do or are in the same situation hence the post.

also I get that most people are trying to follow the guidelines to the t. But if you think about it, why worry about the second owner? It’s like taking care of a new phone getting all the cases and what not, only to get 30% back when you upgrade the phone next year or two. Obviously this doesn’t apply to everyone.

let’s see what happens. I’m going to schedule a checkup at the dealer, to see if there is anything wrong with the batteries. If something comes up I’ll update.

 

[Mach-Lee]

let’s see what happens. I’m going to schedule a checkup at the dealer, to see if there is anything wrong with the batteries. If something comes up I’ll update.

Have the dealer do the software updates that just came out, they mention improved cold weather range. Small chance that might help some.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...gram-21p22-software-calibration-update.11677/

 

[El Colonel]

I’m a new owner. Been doing a lot of research on the E-HEAT.

it would appear you can heat the cabin (at least while driving) with the defrost .

with the e-heat button OFF the air coming out of the defrost is warm to hot.

can anyone describe why defrost seems to provide warm air without e-heat switches on?

im not complaining! Just want to understand.

 

[Blue highway]

I’m a new owner. Been doing a lot of research on the E-HEAT.

it would appear you can heat the cabin (at least while driving) with the defrost .

with the e-heat button OFF the air coming out of the defrost is warm to hot.

can anyone describe why defrost seems to provide warm air without e-heat switches on?

im not complaining! Just want to understand.

The air is being warmed by resistive heat for defrost. This doesn’t save you any power if you are just doing this to heat the cabin. If they didn’t heat the defrost air it wouldn’t clear the glass.

in a few model generations all EVs will have heat pumps to make heat as it saves about half the power that resistive heat requires. For now the MME uses resistive heat…. Cheap and easy to engineer but uses a lot of power…. That’s why the suggestions are to rely more on seat heat than heating the cabin…. It’s still resistive but is much smaller than heating the entire inside of the car.

 

[RedStallion]

Ok, now I need to ask.... why!

You don't need to change EV to ICE you need to change residence!

... or work ?

I used to live in Queens driving to Manhattan for 2-3 hours every day. I had enough patience for year, the length of my contract, then when they offered to extend it for another year I told them to shove it. I can't imagine spending 6h in traffic every day, it's like 2 month a year wasted.

 

[El Colonel]

The air is being warmed by resistive heat for defrost. This doesn’t save you any power if you are just doing this to heat the cabin. If they didn’t heat the defrost air it wouldn’t clear the glass.

in a few model generations all EVs will have heat pumps to make heat as it saves about half the power that resistive heat requires. For now the MME uses resistive heat…. Cheap and easy to engineer but uses a lot of power…. That’s why the suggestions are to rely more on seat heat than heating the cabin…. It’s still resistive but is much smaller than heating the entire inside of the car.

thank you for the reply. I wonder why the E-Heat doesn’t light up when defrost is on (producing heated air) yet e-heat does light when face and foot vents are activated?? Again, thanks for the reply.

john

 

[macchiaz-o]

thank you for the reply. I wonder why the E-Heat doesn’t light up when defrost is on (producing heated air) yet e-heat does light when face and foot vents are activated?? Again, thanks for the reply.

john

In your photo, the recirculation and e-heat buttons are displayed in their disabled states. Meaning, you could tap them, but your taps will be ignored -- no change will occur. Notice how they are "flat," unlike the three dimensional A/C and MAX A/C buttons?

It looks like maybe the Mach-E's UI designers accounted for a disabled state, but neglected to differentiate disabled-but-on from disabled-and-off. It's one of those fine details in UI work that is often overlooked.

Either that, or it's disabled and OFF but as you suggested, it wouldn't make much sense for the defrost mode to turn off e-heat, especially since defrost also set your temp controls to HI. It's more likely that e-heat is locked ON during defrost.

 

[El Colonel]

In your photo, the recirculation and e-heat buttons are displayed in their disabled states. Meaning, you could tap them, but your taps will be ignored -- no change will occur. Notice how they are "flat," unlike the three dimensional A/C and MAX A/C buttons?

It looks like maybe the Mach-E's UI designers accounted for a disabled state, but neglected to differentiate disabled-but-on from disabled-and-off. It's one of those fine details in UI work that is often overlooked.

Either that, or it's disabled and OFF but as you suggested, it wouldn't make much sense for the defrost mode to turn off e-heat, especially since defrost also set your temp controls to HI. It's more likely that e-heat is locked ON during defrost.

thank you. I can say for SURE, regardless if the Eheat button is illuminated, the car is consuming energy from the battery! The range is severely reduced relative to actual miles drive when defrost is on.

for A period of 10 miles with defrost on I was consuming about 2 ilea of range for every one mile driven.

I turned off defrost only leaving seat and steering wheel on and I returned to approximately 1 mile range consumed for one mile of range traveled.

The new software update 21P22 is supposed to make cold weather driving battery consumption better/more accurate as well as keep fast charging going through 90% SOC as well as other fixes.

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