Neil4Real

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I had the same happen with the ACM update. Just means Ford targeted your car for the OTA and you did it manually before it actually did the update.

My screen shows not complete for that update but it's definitely done, and got the fordpass notification it completed.
I haven't gotten 5.1.1, the last update I received was the OTA music update (even though I still had to do it via FDRS as the ACM didn't clear after a few weeks).

Wouldn't that mean I do not have this GWM update that is showing up in FDRS?
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benk016

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I haven't gotten 5.1.1, the last update I received was the OTA music update (even though I still had to do it via FDRS as the ACM didn't clear after a few weeks).

Wouldn't that mean I do not have this GWM update that is showing up in FDRS?
Based on checking several 2021 cars that have and haven't gotten 5.1.1, there appears to be a few hardware versions of the GWM, and not all of them have gotten a 5.1.1 update.

It's unclear if that GWM that is showing is 5.1.1 coming for the rest, or just another FDRS issue showing an update when it shouldn't. But I'd expect the rest will get up to NAE or similar at some point soon.
 

ew6050

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Any suggestions on how to resolve this error trying to launch app on my PC?

Ford Mustang Mach-E The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS Parallels Desktop - Windows 11 2023-09-15 at 2.24.21 PM
 

dj_stang

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Realistically what would be the issue with using something like this rather than the ~$500 Clore unit. There are many units like this. Is it reliability? It seems like you could get 20 of these ready to go for the price of the Pl6100 :p.
https://a.co/d/3r9bTGs

Or is there an issue with output being exactly (ish) 12V instead of slightly higher than battery.
 


HuntingPudel

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Realistically what would be the issue with using something like this rather than the ~$500 Clore unit. There are many units like this. Is it reliability? It seems like you could get 20 of these ready to go for the price of the Pl6100 :p.
https://a.co/d/3r9bTGs

Or is there an issue with output being exactly (ish) 12V instead of slightly higher than battery.
I am sure that you could adjust your stack of smaller supplies to all supply something in the neighborhood of 13.8V. You must have more voltage coming from the supply/supplies than what’s in the battery or the battery will deplete first and then run you into trouble. ??

In practice, you could probably use 3 or 4 of these, but connecting everything up would certainly be a hassle. Then there would be physical positioning (and maintaining those positions) to consider so that they could all get enough cooling air to prevent over-heating. There are also storage considerations. And of course there are safety considerations since the contacts are all out in the open. ??

I thought about doing something like this and decided that for me it’s too much hassle and bought a PL6100. ?‍♂?
 

richsi

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Realistically what would be the issue with using something like this rather than the ~$500 Clore unit. There are many units like this. Is it reliability? It seems like you could get 20 of these ready to go for the price of the Pl6100 :p.
https://a.co/d/3r9bTGs

Or is there an issue with output being exactly (ish) 12V instead of slightly higher than battery.
30 Amps continuous is not enough for some module when programming. I wouldn't consider anything less than 50 Amps continuous. My option of course, not worth taking a chance unless you have the skills of recovering a dead module, up to you of course.
 

shelnian

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Realistically what would be the issue with using something like this rather than the ~$500 Clore unit. There are many units like this. Is it reliability? It seems like you could get 20 of these ready to go for the price of the Pl6100 :p.
https://a.co/d/3r9bTGs

Or is there an issue with output being exactly (ish) 12V instead of slightly higher than battery.
If you use a 12v power supply, it won't start supplying current until the battery voltage drops below 12v, which means the car's 12v battery is almost dead. 12v lead acid batteries float at about 13.6v when fully charged so I would recommend a 13.8v power supply. I use a 13.8v 30A power supply so the car is running primarily off the 13.8v power supply, leaving the car's 12v battery as a backup source.
 

HuntingPudel

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30 Amps continuous is not enough for some module when programming. I wouldn't consider anything less than 50 Amps continuous. My option of course, not worth taking a chance unless you have the skills of recovering a dead module, up to you of course.
Agreed, as I have seen draws of ~44A. I believe he was thinking of parallelling these like some have with the PL2100. I personally think it’s too much hassle to do it and maintain safety due to the exposed contacts for mains power. ?‍♂?
 

Wonky_Donkey

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New version of FDRS (37.4.6) released today
 

21st Century Pony

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New version of FDRS (37.4.6) released today
So I tried the new FDRS 37.4.6.

What is normal in new FDRS versions: the formerly loaded VINs "go away" and have to be reloaded into FDRS.

What is different in FDRS 37.4.6 about this reloading of VINs: the "manual VIN load" doesn't work. Not thru typing the VIN into the MANUAL LOAD box, and not thru copy + paste from a document.

Solution: I had to dig out the Mongoose cable and load the VIN from the car via a cable connection... afterwards, the VIN stayed loaded in FDRS as usual.

...just FYI for those here, like myself, who like to check for module software updates from the comfort of their home.
 

Wonky_Donkey

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So I tried the new FDRS 37.4.6.

What is normal in new FDRS versions: the formerly loaded VINs "go away" and have to be reloaded into FDRS.

What is different in FDRS 37.4.6 about this reloading of VINs: the "manual VIN load" doesn't work. Not thru typing the VIN into the MANUAL LOAD box, and not thru copy + paste from a document.

Solution: I had to dig out the Mongoose cable and load the VIN from the car via a cable connection... afterwards, the VIN stayed loaded in FDRS as usual.

...just FYI for those here, like myself, who like to check for module software updates from the comfort of their home.
That’s weird - not experienced that issue at all.

I mean yes my VIN list cleared down as it always does with a fresh install, but I was merrily copying and pasting VIN’s into the search box checking stuff out without issue.
 

Neil4Real

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So I tried the new FDRS 37.4.6.

What is normal in new FDRS versions: the formerly loaded VINs "go away" and have to be reloaded into FDRS.

What is different in FDRS 37.4.6 about this reloading of VINs: the "manual VIN load" doesn't work. Not thru typing the VIN into the MANUAL LOAD box, and not thru copy + paste from a document.

Solution: I had to dig out the Mongoose cable and load the VIN from the car via a cable connection... afterwards, the VIN stayed loaded in FDRS as usual.

...just FYI for those here, like myself, who like to check for module software updates from the comfort of their home.
I'm with @Wonky_Donkey and not getting your 2nd issue. I copy and pasted my VIN no problem this morning after updating.
 

21st Century Pony

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I guess I angered the FDRS river spirits...
 
 







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