kdonnel

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I was going to apply the recall updates today but I can't seem to get FDRS to recognize my WIRED mongoose cable.

I only use this laptop for FDRS updates and haven't made any changes other then applying the latest windows updates and updating FDRS to 45.5.7.

When launching I am greeted by
Ford Mustang Mach-E The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS Screenshot 2025-09-12 124931


despite having the mongoose plugged in and then get the following

Ford Mustang Mach-E The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS Screenshot 2025-09-12 125021


Why is it looking for a computer wireless dongle?

Do I need updated mongoose drivers?

edited to add:
User error triggered by a change in functionality? In the past I could fire up FDRS with the mongoose plugged in away from the car.

With this version of FDRS it looks like it expects to have the mongoose not only plugged into the PC but also plugged into the car.

When plugged into the car it looks to be happy and working.
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Mike G

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There hasn't been any change to the OPUS Mongoose drivers (VCI toolbox -J2534, etc.) that I'm aware of since it was released. That appears to be something that the Ford VCI manager was doing rather than anything OPUS related. I have had that issue before...and frankly I can't remember now how I got it to stop. But it did.
 

Mike G

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Oh and the VCM 3 comes with a wireless dongle you can use with it. I don't do that, I always direct connect. And even some of Ford's TSBs tell you on some of the update instructions that it's not a good idea to use the wireless dongle due to interruptions and bandwidth throughput constraints. So my wireless dongle thingy stays in the box it came in.
 

rugedraw

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HuntingPudel

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I had the 12v recall update done last week by my dealer. Confirmed it worked as designed 14.4 volts at engine off.

I have had the gear to do my own updates and decided to use them today for the first time.

Thanks to all the information here and other threads in the forum all went well!

I was prepared for all the “sky is falling” message, weird sounds.

One thing I noticed is after the engine on engine off process FDRS showed 14.4 volts (recall working). During this condition the green light on my power supply turned off (it was set to 13.4 volts). When the car stopped the 14.4 volts the power supply kicked back in. FDRS then showed 13.4 volts…sometimes dropping to 12.4 during the SOBDM* updates.

Is 13.4 volts still good setting for my power supply?
Not sure how much juice the 2024 Premium draws, but the 2024 GT draws a significantly larger amount of amperage than the 2021 GT-PE (69A vs. 46A) during the big load updates. If your power supply is one of the smaller units, you might want to crank the voltage up a tiny bit in order to shove the juice into the battery faster during the down times. The voltage will still drop somewhat when updating, but since the battery is getting a little more when it's not in demand it should last longer. I have my PL6100 set to 14V and it's rock steady unless I blow a fuse (thinking of re-doing my jump point and axing the fuse). 🤷‍♂️🐩
 


Mike G

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Mine is the Power Max PM3-55 (55 Amp) I should of bought one with the voltage/amp meter display built in. This only has a green light to show it was on. I used my volt/amp meter to verify it was set 13.4 voltage before starting FDRS. I should of checked amperage during install but did not think about it at the time.
13.4 should be fine...but having said that, I set my PL6100 to 13.6 before starting anything and while programming I can see on FDRS that it drops to 13.4 normally while I'm working.....but honestly, if it never drops below 13.0V during programming, you should have zero problems.
 

HuntingPudel

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Mine is the Power Max PM3-55 (55 Amp) I should of bought one with the voltage/amp meter display built in. This only has a green light to show it was on. I used my volt/amp meter to verify it was set 13.4 voltage before starting FDRS. I should of checked amperage during install but did not think about it at the time.
55A should be sufficient even for longer updates using the battery as a cushion. If the PS can supply 55A when cranked up to 14V your battery should recover faster and you should be good. 😁🐩

I probably misspoke in my earlier post as well. I made the assumption that all 2024 GTs draw 69A. I probably should have said that my 2021 drew 46A and my 2024 draws 69A and not made the assumption that all would. 🤷‍♂️🐩

Ford Mustang Mach-E The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS Frunk Profil
 

Trick.Mach-E

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Not sure how much juice the 2024 Premium draws, but the 2024 GT draws a significantly larger amount of amperage than the 2021 GT-PE (69A vs. 46A) during the big load updates. If your power supply is one of the smaller units, you might want to crank the voltage up a tiny bit in order to shove the juice into the battery faster during the down times. The voltage will still drop somewhat when updating, but since the battery is getting a little more when it's not in demand it should last longer. I have my PL6100 set to 14V and it's rock steady unless I blow a fuse (thinking of re-doing my jump point and axing the fuse). 🤷‍♂️🐩
Out of curiosity how come the GT pulls more amps that the non-GT?
 

HuntingPudel

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Out of curiosity how come the GT pulls more amps that the non-GT?
Since I haven't measured a non-GT I don't know what they pull. Likely the non-GTs pull lower amperage since the GT is equipped with a higher power 12V system. I have measured my 2021 GT-PE and my 2024 GT and my 2024 pulls a lot more than my former 2021. Small sample sizes. 🤷‍♂️🐩
 

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Is there a HVAC Update available? I saw a new Power Up HVAC-25.26 in EU...
 

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ndreamer

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Hello!

Is anyone aware if SSM 53966 is still in place or not? (the one that prevents older APIM from being updated)?
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