Mike G

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When FDRS shows files to download are those specific for my vehicle?
Here's your list as of this morning:
Ford Mustang Mach-E The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS 3FMTK3R77MMA65595-30-July-22


So as a general plan of attack when you're starting out with FDRS:

Assumptions:
You have decently fast internet.
Your laptop has all the "Power Saving" features for the screen, hard drive, sleep, USB, network adapter, etc. either set to disabled or 'Never' (in the case of when to go to sleep) and is set for maximum performance while plugged in.
Your Mongoose cable is recognized by FDRS when you start the program up (Drew Technologies adapter selected) and is connected to your OBDII port.
You have connected your powersupply and charged your LVB back up above 80% SOC before switching it to powersupply mode and have set your voltage to 14.0 (if setting that is an option on your device).
You don't have any other unnecessary programs running in the background that may interfere (MS anti-virus running is totally okay and will not affect FDRS, I can't speak to other AV programs but I know MS is fine).
You have your 32GB USB 3.0 thumb drive handy, formatted to exFat, and blank, with either a short volume name or no name at all (i.e something like "FDRS" is good).
You've turned off the HVAC in your car completely so as not to draw power away from your system while programming.

So after reading your VIN and selecting the "Go" button you check the toolbox and then select the SW_Updates tab and get a list like the above. Where to start?

A best practice is to always start with a GWM or TCU update if they are shown in the list.

--At this point after you've pressed the "OK" button to start programming it's best to mention that everytime you do this the headlights switch will reset itself to Auto so you'll have to reach down and shut that back off to minimize power drain, everytime.--

If a PCM is shown then doing that one would be a good next step since it will chain in other related power or battery management and diagnostic modules at the same time (like the BECM, SOBD, SOBDMB, etc).

Other updates are standalone and can be done individually if you want to start with those to get your feet wet. Like the HVAC, DSM, WACM, RFA, GSM, BCM.

There are some updates that can take hours to do (things like an IPC if it's done using the CAN bus update method instead of the USB method). So you really need to keep an eye on the lower right corner of the FDRS window to monitor your voltage to make sure it doesn't drop too far while programming (never let it go below 10.1 volts or you may find yourself having to reprogram that module again). If you have a decent powersupply (>40A) this should not be an issue.

After programming a module FDRS usually does a network scan to refresh the list. There are times when you program a module and it gets reported to the Ford server, it triggers the availability of another module and then that one appears in your list. And there are times when you just updated a module and it supposedly went to plan and that module still appears in your list (like the OBCC recently). Don't worry, it will likely drop off the list in a few minutes (or after a FDRS restart).

Once you have the hang of it this should all go smoothly and you'll find out how easy it really is.

Mike

Ford Mustang Mach-E The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS Dr
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737flyer

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I’ve been researching we’re to buy the mongoose. Thanks for the info
 

Mike G

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You can buy it on Amazon. Unfortunately, the price just recently went up.
Yeah..they know we're kindof a 'captive-audience' and this is clearly a 'pay-to-play' sort of thing.

On the other hand they will likely not go down in perceived value, and can always be resold and the money mostly recouped.

Mike
 

generaltso

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Yeah..they know we're kindof a 'captive-audience' and this is clearly a 'pay-to-play' sort of thing.

On the other hand they will likely not go down in perceived value, and can always be resold and the money mostly recouped.

Mike
Well, the price increased 9% which is close to the current rate of inflation, so I can’t really fault them for that.
 


AmbiguousPresentation

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Apologies if this is answered somewhere upthread —my searching skills are limited on my phone— but where are people finding cables to run from their 30A power supply to their LVB terminals? I think I need 10 gauge awg if I’m pulling 30A at 12V, but everything I find online is 12 gauge, and more serious jumper cables from hardware or automotive stores have clamps at both ends.
 

737flyer

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Yeah..they know we're kindof a 'captive-audience' and this is clearly a 'pay-to-play' sort of thing.

On the other hand they will likely not go down in perceived value, and can always be resold and the money mostly recouped.

Mike
I just bought one on Amazon. Do all the windows need to be closed when preforming the updates. This summer has been terribly hot.
 

MustThee?

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I just bought one on Amazon. Do all the windows need to be closed when preforming the updates. This summer has been terribly hot.
No, I keep all of the windows open when updating. That’s part of the ritual before starting updates….open all windows, disconnect dash cam etc etc
 

Mike G

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Apologies if this is answered somewhere upthread —my searching skills are limited on my phone— but where are people finding cables to run from their 30A power supply to their LVB terminals? I think I need 10 gauge awg if I’m pulling 30A at 12V, but everything I find online is 12 gauge, and more serious jumper cables from hardware or automotive stores have clamps at both ends.
I think many of us are using chargers/powersupplies that come with cable sets already. Like the Solar PL6100.

Mike
 

smartino

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Apologies if this is answered somewhere upthread —my searching skills are limited on my phone— but where are people finding cables to run from their 30A power supply to their LVB terminals? I think I need 10 gauge awg if I’m pulling 30A at 12V, but everything I find online is 12 gauge, and more serious jumper cables from hardware or automotive stores have clamps at both ends.
Check these out they are rated for 30 amps

YCIND Battery Alligator Clips Clamp Clip-on to 3/8" Ring Eyelet Terminal Boost Cable Heavy Duty 30A Fuse 12V/24V 12AWG Cord 10Ft https://a.co/fbsc4UV
 

AmbiguousPresentation

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Huh, did they successfully power the LVB system through the more stressful updates? I guess they they didn’t melt for you, they’ll probably work for me. :) Thanks!

Those are the cables I used with my power supply.
 

Eric_C_Boston

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I tried to log into FDRS and it worked. My "500 internal server error" problem is resolved. FDRS did not show any module updates.
 

bmwhitetx

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Huh, did they successfully power the LVB system through the more stressful updates? I guess they they didn’t melt for you, they’ll probably work for me. :) Thanks!
12AWG is good for 20A when used in NM-B (aka Romex) and UF-B (underground). With THHN/THWN-2 insulation (which the mentioned cables look to have) they are good for 30A - especially in open air not in conduit. See https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/
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