Would you be interested in a drop in enclosure for a mach-e


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ElectrikPony

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I agree w others that weight was probably a factor in deciding to put in such a mediocre sound system. My Select had really paultry speakers that weighed less than half of the replacement 6 and 1/4 in rear door speakers I put in.

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Nothing says quality like a "whizzer" cone for high frequencies. I thought they stopped using those in the late 80's/90's.
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Sillybibbles

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In the premium both the front and back door speakers are dual component I think. But the Select only has separate component tweeters in the front, and a full range in the back. That's the full range I showed, and indeed it looks really cheap and sounds just like it looks.
 
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ElectrikPony

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Does the Ford f150 Lightning use the same DC-DC Converter Module and 12v AGM battery setup like the Mach-E uses?
 

HuntingPudel

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I don't have my car either. It's at my parents house in the Bay Area.
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Your parents’ place is more or less on my way home from work. I could stop by to check on your car to make sure it’s not throwing a party or something in your parents’ garage. ?? <runs and hides>
 

markboris

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Your parents’ place is more or less on my way home from work. I could stop by to check on your car to make sure it’s not throwing a party or something in your parents’ garage. ?? <runs and hides>
Very funny Steve! I'm sure it's doing ok but thank you. ?
However, if you needed to borrow it for any reason, you are more than welcome to.
 
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Mach1E

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Nothing says quality like a "whizzer" cone for high frequencies. I thought they stopped using those in the late 80's/90's.
Lol yeah, now we know why the B&O is a real upgrade from the select stereo.
 

HuntingPudel

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Very funny Steve! I'm sure it's doing ok but thank you. ?
However, if you needed to borrow it for any reason, you are more than welcome to.
You never know. It could be there, partying and corrupting all of the poor ICE cars in the neighborhood. ??
 

markboris

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You never know. It could be there, partying and corrupting all of the poor ICE cars in the neighborhood. ??
It's parked next to my dad's '07 GMC Sierra so no partying in that garage and there is no one else on that street that I know of that has an EV. There is a neighbor two doors up that has a '21 GT500 and a '22 Bullitt so at least the Mustang's can get together.
 
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ElectrikPony

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Update: The wire from the dc-dc converter is 2 gauge and 3 feet. You can see from the graph below that’s good for 3100 watts peak. That equates to 224 amps peak and 125 amps rms. I am told that the dc to dc converter module gets quite warm at 125 amps.

Ford Mustang Mach-E This thread has been removed by its author A3FE252D-3C13-4082-A4B9-8D7A04E2B5B2
 
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CzarR

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Update: The wire from the dc-dc converter is 2 gauge and 3 feet. You can see from the graph below that’s good for 3100 watts peak.

A3FE252D-3C13-4082-A4B9-8D7A04E2B5B2.png
Well in that case it should easly power a 1500 watt RMS amp right?
 

mkhuffman

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Provided you have proper grounding to match the factory 2 gauge to a good grounding point.
And doesn't that assume there isn't power being used elsewhere in the car? If all it has to do is power a 1500 Watt amp, no problem. But what about the other loads? Or am I missing something?
 
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ElectrikPony

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And doesn't that assume there isn't power being used elsewhere in the car? If all it has to do is power a 1500 Watt amp, no problem. But what about the other loads? Or am I missing something?

Things like automobile lights , heater , a/c etc really don’t use that many amps in the grand scheme of things. What @CzarR example lists a 1500 watt amp. I’m going to assume that’s 1500 watts rms not peak.

Based on this information and assuming an average vehicle charging voltage of 13.8 volts, the current draw of a typical Class D amplifier can be determined as follows; Total RMS (1500 watts) ÷ Amp efficiency (75%) ÷ Source voltage (13.8 volts) = Amperes of current draw or 1500 ÷ 0.75 ÷ 13.8 = 144 amps. That’s also at 100% volume, which is rarely going to happen.


FOMOCO has stated the Mach-e has a maximum output of 160 amps. I will assume this is peak.

If you really want to test it further you can stick an amp meter on the dc-dc converter module. Then simulate the scenario by playing audio through your aftermarket amp to see what the loads are.

Sorry this was long and thorough, I’m an engineer!
 
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Mach-Lee

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FYI Mach-E base load is about 20A with ignition on.

1500W RMS equates to about 120 dB loudness, which should be more than loud enough to cause hearing damage in less than a minute. Amp watt ratings are tricky though because power output depends heavily on speaker impedance, you gotta read the specs carefully.
 

mkhuffman

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FYI Mach-E base load is about 20A with ignition on.

1500W RMS equates to about 120 dB loudness, which should be more than loud enough to cause hearing damage in less than a minute. Amp watt ratings are tricky though because power output depends heavily on speaker impedance, you gotta read the specs carefully.
When your ears bleed, you know it is too loud. ?
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