Update on Mach-E launch progress from engineering friends in Mexico

Kamuelaflyer

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I was over in Eastern Oregon in July and was surprised to have to pump my own gas. Nobody over there was wearing masks. Felt like I was in the twilight zone where things didn't make any sense.
There are exceptions to the no pumping your own gas rule in Oregon now, 6pm to 6 am it's legal. Plus rural county gas stations can be self-serve 24/7 with nobody present -- unless they sell snacks. Cool huh?
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abr

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There are exceptions to the no pumping your own gas rule in Oregon now, 6pm to 6 am it's legal. Plus rural county gas stations can be self-serve 24/7 with nobody present -- unless they sell snacks. Cool huh?
Is it only safe to pump your own gas at night?? I thought it was a safety thing . . . not safe during the day, but at night - no problem!
 

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interesting that the ford employee is not waiting for ford's own charging station
Perhaps the 60 amp requirement for the Ford charger has something to do with the choice. The Level 2 charger can be on a 40 or 50 amp circuit. For most installations the 60 amp circuit will require completely new wiring.
 

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Only RWD, standard battery results are complete. The rest are in progress.
Thought we may know the rwd sr dyno test results by now; think they are waiting for all in one shot? Wish they would release the highway sheet (HWFET). Release both and let us calculate it ;) .

Hoping for good range and transparent scalars. We can always remain guessing and not know until real world results question or verify but nothing even up Here yet. It will be interesting; the fun of buying untested new tech :cool:. Hope Ford stays safe and is happy with their results.
 


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Perhaps the 60 amp requirement for the Ford charger has something to do with the choice. The Level 2 charger can be on a 40 or 50 amp circuit. For most installations the 60 amp circuit will require completely new wiring.
I don't think the Ford charger REQUIRES a 60 amp circuit. Pretty sure it can step down on a 50 Amp breaker circuit. A 60 Amp circuit just gives it the most power and fastest charging.
 

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I just wish they would provide final specs on what circuit minimums and maximum capacities for both chargers (the mobile and the Ford Connected Charge Station) are so that I can at least contact my electrician and get an estimate for the cost of the work. I have 200 amp service, and a 100 amp sub panel with plenty of room, so I'm pretty sure I'm good there. Of course, one wonders what happens if the air conditioning, clothes dryer, oven, cooktop, and car charger were all pulling maximum current at the same time ? (we'll ignore all the stuff on the 30 amp circuits for this thought exercise).
 

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I just wish they would provide final specs on what circuit minimums and maximum capacities for both chargers (the mobile and the Ford Connected Charge Station) are so that I can at least contact my electrician and get an estimate for the cost of the work. I have 200 amp service, and a 100 amp sub panel with plenty of room, so I'm pretty sure I'm good there. Of course, one wonders what happens if the air conditioning, clothes dryer, oven, cooktop, and car charger were all pulling maximum current at the same time ? (we'll ignore all the stuff on the 30 amp circuits for this thought exercise).
The included mobile charger draws 32 amps, so a minimum 40amp circuit. You can plug it into a higher capacity circuit. The key is that the mobile charger needs a 14-50 outlet and the connected charger is obviously hardwired, so you need to decide which you want (and actually buy the connected charger) before your electrician can finish the job. So, you might as well make the decision before your electrician comes out to do anything
 

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I was going to buy the connected charger, but the cost of that unit, along with what I assumed would be the cost of installation (I was assuming close to $1K) made the decision for me. I bought the Grizzl-E 40 amp charger for $399, bought wiring and materials for about $150 and the electrician I had install it charged me $120 to do the simple wiring run and installation that I was uncomfortable doing myself. So, all in, I am at less cost than the Ford charger. While it would be nice to have the ability to control the charger through the app, the car can control charging just as well. I just could not justify that extra expense for that small convenience. Even so, I was concerned that the Ford charger was and as far as I know is still unavailable to buy and install. Having a car and no way to fuel it was not an option for me - and I did not want to deal with scheduling all of that at the last minute.
 

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You could use dry ice in the frunk to keep things cold. When people question the fog coming from under the hood just tell that is cooling system for the nuclear reactor.
Or it's the radiator hose leaking. :D
 

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final got a reply from my dealer. No breaking news though

"Hey Mark, sorry for late reply, Ford hasn’t scheduled any yet, they will be scheduled to be built in Nov. (1st or 2nd week), will keep you posted once I have a VIN ?"
 

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The included mobile charger draws 32 amps, so a minimum 40amp circuit. You can plug it into a higher capacity circuit. The key is that the mobile charger needs a 14-50 outlet and the connected charger is obviously hardwired, so you need to decide which you want (and actually buy the connected charger) before your electrician can finish the job. So, you might as well make the decision before your electrician comes out to do anything
So, my thought was to put in a circuit with the capacity to handle the connected charger, and just put whatever outlet the mobile charger supports on the outlet box in the garage (my garage doesn’t have finished walls inside part of it - just framing, so this will be easy). If I decide to get the connected charger at a later date, I should just be able to remove the outlet box and replace it with the connected charger.

Also, does anyone know what the connected charger draws?
 

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So, my thought was to put in a circuit with the capacity to handle the connected charger, and just put whatever outlet the mobile charger supports on the outlet box in the garage (my garage doesn’t have finished walls inside part of it - just framing, so this will be easy). If I decide to get the connected charger at a later date, I should just be able to remove the outlet box and replace it with the connected charger.

Also, does anyone know what the connected charger draws?
48 amps, so you need a 60 amp circuit. I am not sure it will pass code to put a 14-50 plug for the portable 32 amp charger on a 60 amp circuit. You should probably ask your electrician.
 

jhalkias

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So, my thought was to put in a circuit with the capacity to handle the connected charger, and just put whatever outlet the mobile charger supports on the outlet box in the garage (my garage doesn’t have finished walls inside part of it - just framing, so this will be easy). If I decide to get the connected charger at a later date, I should just be able to remove the outlet box and replace it with the connected charger.

Also, does anyone know what the connected charger draws?
A NEMA 14-50 outlet can only be connected to a 50 Amp breaker from everything I have read and understood here and other places. A 60 Amp breaker circuit is ONLY for hardwiring directly to the device without a plug. That being said, I assume you could remove the outlet of a 50 Amp circuit and hardwire the Ford Charger and it will work fine with the lower amperage. It just won't work at its highest output for charging - not that much of a difference if charging overnight.
 

jhalkias

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I assume you could also do the wiring with the gauge needed for a 60 amp breaker (4 gauge from my understanding) install the 50 amp breaker now, and replace it with a 60 amp breaker when you go to hardwire. That wire is a LOT more expensive. More than double the price of 6 gauge. To be sure though, ask your electrician.
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