UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce.

[Track9979]

I propose a business opportunity for some entrepreneur, sell us the Koni shocks upgraded per the instructions in this thread. Let me know how many buyers there are with replies here.

It seems that rally springs improve the ride quite a bit - see this thread
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/installed-mach-e-rally-springs-on-my-2023-rwd-er.43993/
and specifically this post:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...y-springs-on-my-2023-rwd-er.43993/post-960214

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[azerik]

I agree with the manufacturers on not wanting to create a replacement that will see probably less than 25,000 replacements.

Due to the shocks and struts not being used on any other vehicle they can’t even spread the cost to another mainstream vehicle.
The fix is, springs for height and softer rates and Magnaride to keep the bounce in check.

KW could make a killing selling just the rear shocks. Again, I say this 3 years after saying it to them.

 

[oamunoz]

@azerik @markboris - I'm getting ready to do this installation. I have the shocks in hand and started to get familiar with them. Watched a video by Koni on adjusting these and it mentioned turning the adjuster until it would "stop" in either direction. Thing is, it seems I never found said stopping point. I'm doing this on the un-installed shocks. Is that how it was for you guys or are these new shocks busted?

 

[azerik]

The adjuster will stop in one of the directions. However if you keep turning it past the 1 1/2 turns (2 turns I think it the max + side which is counter clockwise) the needle valve can pop out of it's thread. You can thread it back in. If I'm remembering you'd need to screw it in while pushing down on it and unscrewing (so to the - side, clockwise) it will stop when screwed all the way in. If it does not there's a problem with the shock. Though if you talk to Koni I wouldn't mention trying to find the stopping point. Is the shock still compressed with the shipping strap?

(the little tab in the top of the shock will pop up and have a gap when unscrewed (+ side) around 2 turns or more) I could be wrong but I think the adjuster threads are reverse threaded (left hand thread)

 

[j2johnson]

Not yet.










But I'm impatiently waiting.

Any luck on the 2025 suspension changes and compatibility with earlier years?

 

[azerik]

Not yet. I’d been toying with the idea of replacing the MME with a 24 or 25. Honestly need to find a dealer that’s not super annoying and take a stock prem for a joy ride to see if there’s a vet noticeable difference between mine and it before heading down the rabbit hole. Right now it’s 110’sh for like the next 3 months so I tend to just hide from my garage.

 

[Arty.lv]

What are your thoughts about BILSTEIN 19-343266 ? And would that be a better replacement than KYB 5550026?

 

[markboris]

What are your thoughts about BILSTEIN 19-343266 ? And would that be a better replacement than KYB 5550026?

The issue is, you need a shock with an adjustable REBOUND. The Bilstien has no adjustment at all. When I initially started this project I tested the Bilstien's along with several others and non of them had the firmness in the rebound that was needed. Only the Koni Yellow Sport shocks with adjustable rebound worked the best in reducing the rear end bounce.

To go over this again, the Mach-E has very little suspension travel. To keep the rear of the car from bottoming out, Ford had to use very firm springs (rear has 1000 lb spring rate). Unfortunately the OEM shocks are not stiff enough to keep these firm springs from bouncing when going over roads with expansion joints, slight dips/bumps, etc. There are other shocks we (Erik and I) tested that have adjustability but the Koni's were the best solution for fitment and the had no suspension noise compared to others.

I'm not sure what your complaint is about the ride of your Mach-E but these shocks DO NOT soften the ride. That is not the purpose of them. Their only purpose is to lesson and in some cases eliminate the rear end continual bouncing you might get over certain road imperfections.

If you are looking to soften the ride as in reduce the overall harshness, you would want to replace all four springs with the OEM Rally springs (leaving the stock shocks on the car). They are 30% less firm (softer spring rate) and give a smoother ride. They will raise the car up almost an inch. Replacing the OEM sway bars with Eibach bars will further soften the ride because of the way they are mounted compared to the vulcanized bushings Ford has on their bars that lessen the amount of travel. Finally after doing this, replacing the tires with taller ones that give you a wider sidewall, will further improve the ride and you will also be able to run the tires at a lower pressure and still be able to maintain the proper load rating of the car.

 

[Arty.lv]

No, I'm not looking for softer ride. I like reasonably firm ride and gocart like cornering. I feel like my shocks are just gone bad. When driving into a pothole with the rear wheel, it feels like the whole car is being jolted from one side to the other. When rocking the car vertically by applying pressure to the rear fender, it continues to bounce up and down for three movements. My car is '21 with 92k km, and I have driven '23 with only 20k with stock suspension, and it feels like day and night. So I think, I would be satisfied with the stock ride quality. The problem is, it is hard to find OE parts in Latvia for this car. We have only one Ford dealer and the price of one shock is $250 with 2 weeks wait time. I found KYB ones for $65 and in local stock, so I bought them, because I thought these are only ones that are direct OE replacements. And today I stumbled on Bilsteins by accident, so I'm thinking if may be Bilsteins are better and I should return KYB ones.

 

[markboris]

No, I'm not looking for softer ride. I like reasonably firm ride and gocart like cornering. I feel like my shocks are just gone bad. When driving into a pothole with the rear wheel, it feels like the whole car is being jolted from one side to the other. When rocking the car vertically by applying pressure to the rear fender, it continues to bounce up and down for three movements. My car is '21 with 92k km, and I have driven '23 with only 20k with stock suspension, and it feels like day and night. So I think, I would be satisfied with the stock ride quality. The problem is, it is hard to find OE parts in Latvia for this car. We have only one Ford dealer and the price of one shock is $250 with 2 weeks wait time. I found KYB ones for $65 and in local stock, so I bought them, because I thought these are only ones that are direct OE replacements. And today I stumbled on Bilsteins by accident, so I'm thinking if may be Bilsteins are better and I should return KYB ones.

Ok, now I understand your issue. Your shocks are worn out and you need a new set. I have used KYB on many vehicles and they are great for the price. However, my favorite shocks are the Bilstiens and if you are able to find them to fit the Mach-E, I would personally buy them as long as they are not way more expensive than the KYB's (but I think they probably are). I mean for the money, you cannot go wrong with the KYB's. Do not get the Silver KYB. Only the White or Red. Silver will not be firm enough for the Mach-E.

 

[4sallypat]

No, I'm not looking for softer ride. I like reasonably firm ride and gocart like cornering. I feel like my shocks are just gone bad. When driving into a pothole with the rear wheel, it feels like the whole car is being jolted from one side to the other. When rocking the car vertically by applying pressure to the rear fender, it continues to bounce up and down for three movements. My car is '21 with 92k km, and I have driven '23 with only 20k with stock suspension, and it feels like day and night. So I think, I would be satisfied with the stock ride quality. The problem is, it is hard to find OE parts in Latvia for this car. We have only one Ford dealer and the price of one shock is $250 with 2 weeks wait time. I found KYB ones for $65 and in local stock, so I bought them, because I thought these are only ones that are direct OE replacements. And today I stumbled on Bilsteins by accident, so I'm thinking if may be Bilsteins are better and I should return KYB ones.

As Mark said, there are many ways to change the ride and everyone is different.

I came from BMWs from 1990s that had gocart handling, stiff ride, steering you can feel, and "magnetic tires" that stuck to the pavement.
I am NOT the type that prefers the latest generation BMWs with soft, cushy, numb steering, and floaty feel.

Thus, my "recipe" that works for me:

• OEM shocks,
• Eibach lift springs (+1.5"),
• Eibach anti sway bars front & rear,
• Rally wheels w/ 255-55x19" Bridgestone Alenza tires (RFT).
• 33 PSI.

Now my ride is about 2" taller, tires are massively larger (compared to OEM), Rally wheels changed the entire look.

Ride is so much more like the BMWs I used to drive 20 years ago - very much now a "Sports Activity Vehicle" that BMW coined.....

Thanks so much @markboris for all that you do for us in the community!

 

[Arty.lv]

I'm afraid they are silver... but they are monotube design, unlike the OEM or Bilstein B4 series shock absorber, that I'm looking at now. In my previous experience, monotube usually offer more damping. I guess I will need to try them out... and $130 for a pair is not terrible price for conducting the experiment.

Ok, now I understand your issue. Your shocks are worn out and you need a new set. I have used KYB on many vehicles and they are great for the price. However, my favorite shocks are the Bilstiens and if you are able to find them to fit the Mach-E, I would personally buy them as long as they are not way more expensive than the KYB's (but I think they probably are). I mean for the money, you cannot go wrong with the KYB's. Do not get the Silver KYB. Only the White or Red. Silver will not be firm enough for the Mach-E.

 

[azerik]

If the shocks are not designed for the MME, or you'll need to come up with about 10mm worth of washer in oder to get the lower mount to bolt up tight. The factory shock has about a 1.5 inch lower bushing. Anything not made for the MME come up a little short so you have to shim the lower to get it tight, like in the write up.

 

[Arty.lv]

If the shocks are not designed for the MME, or you'll need to come up with about 10mm worth of washer in oder to get the lower mount to bolt up tight. The factory shock has about a 1.5 inch lower bushing. Anything not made for the MME come up a little short so you have to shim the lower to get it tight, like in the write up.

That's the main thing - as I previously mentioned, both of these products are direct OE replacements and are designed for MME.
Otherwise I would go for Koni, as markboris and others have suggested. But I really don't want to do any other mods to the shock mounts or shocks them selves.

 

[markboris]

I'm afraid they are silver... but they are monotube design, unlike the OEM or Bilstein B4 series shock absorber, that I'm looking at now. In my previous experience, monotube usually offer more damping. I guess I will need to try them out... and $130 for a pair is not terrible price for conducting the experiment.

The silver’s are their least heavy duty shocks with same or less dampening than OEM. You will probably be ok but I always use the Whites as the are much more firm with the reds being very firm.

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