MME_Adventurist

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Very insightful video. I did not see a solid conclusion for reducing the fire hazard of charging at home? Did anyway else? I know he mentioned using the Hubble outlet and having a dedicated charger hardwired into the house but that was it.
 

kindofblue

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Very insightful video. I did not see a solid conclusion for reducing the fire hazard of charging at home? Did anyway else? I know he mentioned using the Hubble outlet and having a dedicated charger hardwired into the house but that was it.
that and putting space between EV charging breakers if you have 2 EVSEs and using breakers that screw onto the buss rather than plug into it.

Here's a link to the "industrial grade" Hubble 14-50 receptacle.

I'm going to have my electrician install one of these for our Mach e if we don't go hard wired on the EVSE.
 
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OON7

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I think the industrial grade is key. There has been a lot of discussion on this across the forum; the outlet quality and the reducing the charging current seem to be the two key suggestions.

I had the $15 outlet, it melted. Upgraded to the industrial grade outlet and reduced my JuiceBox 40 down to 32. I can't say for certain it makes a difference but I can definitely say my outlet hasn't melted again (so far)!
 


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that and putting space between EV charging breakers if you have 2 EVSEs and using breakers that screw onto the buss rather than plug into it.

Here's a link to the "industrial grade" Hubble 14-50 receptacle.

I'm going to have my electrician install one of these for our Mach e if we don't go hard wired on the ESVE.
Here's an alternative that's just as good as Hubbell for around $50:

https://www.grainger.com/product/49...95npS2v7QZL8GVmfYykaAp_dEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

Pioneer74

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I can’t say I’ve ever seen these; not that I’m a full time sparky.
It's panel dependent. I've seen them, but they are older panels. All the newer panels that I've ever seen are stabs.
 

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It's panel dependent. I've seen them, but they are older panels. All the newer panels that I've ever seen are stabs.
That was my suspicion so that’s not really great advice then since, you have to have a panel that can based on UL certification accept a screw in breaker.
 

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I think the industrial grade is key. There has been a lot of discussion on this across the forum; the outlet quality and the reducing the charging current seem to be the two key suggestions.

I had the $15 outlet, it melted. Upgraded to the industrial grade outlet and reduced my JuiceBox 40 down to 32. I can't say for certain it makes a difference but I can definitely say my outlet hasn't melted again (so far)!
Completely agree. I have yet to take delivery, but the Leviton receptacle installed by my electrician will be replaced with the Bryant I just bought.

I'll also use the Ford portable charger for the time being, and if I switch to anything else I'll leave it at 32 amps. Anything higher scares the crap out of me.
 

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Biggest take away from this imo. If you are currently using or plan to use a 15-40 Nema plug. Find the description for said plug and if it says "range" do not use it for EV charging. Pay a few extra bucks for "industrial" grade
 

dtbaker61

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I think the industrial grade is key. There has been a lot of discussion on this across the forum; the outlet quality and the reducing the charging current seem to be the two key suggestions.

I had the $15 outlet, it melted. Upgraded to the industrial grade outlet and reduced my JuiceBox 40 down to 32. I can't say for certain it makes a difference but I can definitely say my outlet hasn't melted again (so far)!
In my experience:

#1 cause for arcing/melting is improper torquing at the 14-50 receptacle, whether it is commercial or cheap won't matter if it is poorly installed

#2 pulling more than 32amps thru a 14-50 receptacle increases risk of melting unless install is perfect, with commercial grad receptacle, and ambient temp is <80F.

#3 improper wire size (less than 6awg for a short run from breaker to receptacle), or using an undersized extension cord (for either 120v or 240v)

#4 letting charger 'hang' from the plug and wiggle out while under load if the cord moves around; much much much better to mount a bracket on the wall, and put charger body in bracket

#5 with chargers having plug-in 'tails' for both 120v and 240v (like our Ford Mobile Chargers) is not pushing the 'tail' connector all the way into the body of the charger.
 

theo1000

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Not to rock the boat but since folks are casting about for solutions, things I have done for my $10 industrial outlets Nema 14-50 that have served me well.

- Increase the gauge of your wiring to 6-6-3 multi-strand NM-B wiring.
- Use solar rated breakers.
- Check your connections every year and torque it back down. There is no way to avoid this, it is a function of the material properties that the connection will get lose.
 

21st Century Pony

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Things have changed since 2012 when my Leviton EVSE wallbox for the Prius could only provide 16 amps (and that Prius would only pull up to 12 amps.max anyway). I think our next car the Ford Fusion Energi could also only pull 16 amps max.

With our current EVs capable of pulling up to 48 amps for longer charging periods (my son's Audi E-Tron as well as my MME) the requirements for the wall circuitry and the EVSE connectors have changed the game.

I am SO glad that I insisted back in 2012 the electrician use 6-gage wire for this circuit to the outside driveway wall. The electrician laughed at me and tried to convince me I was wasting $$$... I was trying to anticipate the needs of the future.

Now I will check that outside wall junction box this weekend and see the shape of connections inside. Brrr...

Sonny Boy has a Hubbell 14-50 receptacle installed under the breaker box in his garage, and uses the Audi OEM mobile EVSE for daily charging (a very well-built unit btw). He never unplugs it... I'll lean on him to get a permanent Grizzl-E 40-amp EVSE installed with a direct breaker box connection, and to put the Audi EVSE back in the frunk.
 
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dtbaker61

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Things have changed since 2012 when my Leviton EVSE wallbox for the Prius could only provide 16 amps (and that Prius would only pull up to 12 amps.max anyway). I think our next car the Ford Fusion Energi could also only pull 16 amps max.

With our current EVs capable of pulling up to 48 amps for longer charging periods (my son's Audi E-Tron as well as my MME) the requirements for the wall circuitry and the EVSE connectors have changed the game.

I am SO glad that I insisted back in 2012 the electrician use 6-gage wire for this circuit to the outside driveway wall. The electrician laughed at me and tried to convince me I was wasting $$$... I was trying to anticipate the needs of the future.

Now I will check that outside wall junction box this weekend and see the shape of connections inside. Brrr...

Sonny Boy has a Hubbell 14-50 RECEPTACLE installed under the breaker box in his garage, and uses the Audi OEM mobile EVSE for daily charging (a very well-built unit btw). He never unplugs it... I'll lean on him to get a permanent Grizzl-E 40-amp EVSE installed with a direct breaker box connection, and to put the Audi EVSE back in the frunk.
6/6/6 w 8 ground is def the way to go
 

Maquis

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It's panel dependent. I've seen them, but they are older panels. All the newer panels that I've ever seen are stabs.
AFAIK only commercial and industrial panels use bolt-on breakers these days. Almost all are 3 phase panels.
Sponsored

 
 







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