Cost of Charger Installation by Electrician

[HuntingPudel]

Just keep it simple and use the mobile charger and a 14-50. Extra flexibility for the use of the outlet for other purposes is worth it. Welder, plasma cutter, etc would be my motvation. I'm not an RV owner, but they would care. Probably more of those than EV owners.

Except that the FMC is problematic for an unreasonable percentage of our members. We’re I doing a new installation and keeping it simple I would hard-wire an EVSE since a GFCI isn’t required for a hard install (and GFCIs have been known to cause problems for several brands of EVSE).

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[Maquis]

so to be sure I understand, am I ok going with "option 1" where he uses 6/2 wire? Both options total about the same cost but it gives me the dedicated home charger while leaving the portable in the car. Is 6/2 fully capable and safe for this?? I don't know much about wire or the advantages/disadvantages. thanks.

If using 6/2 for a 60A circuit, it has to be MC, not NM (Romex). #6 NM is only good for 55A.

 

[Fixbear]

I'd like to provide some InSite here. Back in May 2021 I installed a outside panel board and a Grizzl-e Artic. 6 gauge Connecticut panel with 14-50 and 20amp GFCI. The cost saving operation of the Mach-E made us look to replace a Volvo with a Mini SE in October of 2022. Wish I had done 100 amp sub, but settled for buying a Grizzle Duo instead. Don't be afraid of oversizing for the future.

 

[AKgrampy]

I'd like to provide some InSite here. Back in May 2021 I installed a outside panel board and a Grizzl-e Artic. 6 gauge Connecticut panel with 14-50 and 20amp GFCI. The cost saving operation of the Mach-E made us look to replace a Volvo with a Mini SE in October of 2022. Wish I had done 100 amp sub, but settled for buying a Grizzle Duo instead. Don't be afraid of oversizing for the future.

I always find it odd - spend $60,000 on a car and try and shave a buck on electrical that could actual cause a fire and damage your house. I used to see the same thing many times outside the city limits in Alaska (no electrical inspector) where people would build a $200k house and use old ratty service entrance equipment (or try to - utility had final approval)

 

[Bartruffian]

Just keep it simple and use the mobile charger and a 14-50. Extra flexibility for the use of the outlet for other purposes is worth it. Welder, plasma cutter, etc would be my motvation. I'm not an RV owner, but they would care. Probably more of those than EV owners.

I had planned on doing that. I won't be using the outlet for anything else, and tit's not a big deal for me to use the provided portable charger since only occasionally would I need to throw it in the frunk for a trip. But the cost of doing it the other way with a home charger is only about $100 more. And the elctrician said I shouldn't use a plug in charger with a non-gfci protected outlet. But a different electrician said it doesn't need to be a GFCI breaker. This is a as clear as mud

 

[Bartruffian]

Just bought my Mach-e and need to get electrician in. He gave me two choices which I could really use advise on:

1. About 50 ft of 6/2 wire from breaker through unfinished basement to garage, 60 amp circuit breaker with a home charger hardwired at the garage with a GFCI built into the home charger. This would cost $500 + the cost of the hardwire home charger which I'd buy for maybe $650 for a total of $1150

2. 6/3 wire, Eaton 50 amp GFCI, 14-50 receptacle (and then I would just plug in the provided ford portable charger.) $1,000 (he said the 3 wire is a lot more expensive than the 2 wire)

It seems like it makes sense to do option 1. Thoughts??

Relevant info:
I want it to be safe.
I don't drive a lot each day. But take a 230 mi trip once per month.
I don't want to wait 4 days for a full charge on 120 line.
We might move in 4 yrs so it might be nice to take the home charger with us but I guess even the hardwired home charger you could detach and put a plate over the box. He said to use a plug in version, we'd need to have go with option to so the line would be GFI protected.

And not sure what is a good quality/good value in home chargers. I only know the Ford one is $800 and Juice Pack is $650.

Thank you!!!!

Thank you to everyone for your input

 

[Bartruffian]

It also comes with a "30% discount" (tax credit) so keep that in mind. I would imagine it won't be long before having an EV charger already installed will be a selling point to a home. And congratulations on your MME.

I haven't researched that yet. Where/how do you get the tax credit for a charger? I bought a used MME so the 7500 didnt apply.

I always find it odd - spend $60,000 on a car and try and shave a buck on electrical that could actual cause a fire and damage your house. I used to see the same thing many times outside the city limits in Alaska (no electrical inspector) where people would build a $200k house and use old ratty service entrance equipment (or try to - utility had final approval)

Yep, that's why "I want it to be safe" was listed first in my priorities/relevant info list. thx

 

[dbsb3233]

I had planned on doing that. I won't be using the outlet for anything else, and tit's not a big deal for me to use the provided portable charger since only occasionally would I need to throw it in the frunk for a trip. But the cost of doing it the other way with a home charger is only about $100 more. And the elctrician said I shouldn't use a plug in charger with a non-gfci protected outlet.

The GFCI issue can be tricky, with conflicting into. There's others here that are way more expert on this than I, but my Grizzl-E (w/14-50 plug) explicitly says DO NOT plug into a GFCI circuit as GF protection is built into the EVSE. I think many other EVSEs are the same way.

Personally, I went with a 14-50 outlet and a 50A breaker. And bought a Grizzl-E so I can leave the Ford Mobile charger in the car full time. The mobile charger is not all that durable. If you use it regularly for home charging, odds are good it may not last more than a few years (although YMMV). You won't need to hire an electrician again to replace it like you would a hardwire unit (unless you're comfortable wiring yourself). With an outlet, you just order a new EVSE from Amazon and plug it in.

I had a similar install to yours 2 years ago. About 40 feet through the crawl space from the main panel on the outside of the house. The used 6/3 and a 50A Eaton non-GFCI breaker. Charged me $900, and I paid ~$400 for the Grizzl-E on Amazon. And of course got to take the 30% federal tax credit off both the EVSE and the electrical work.

But many people hardwire too. Both are valid options. I just like the flexibility of the outlet, where I can just buy a replacement EVSE down the road if needed. It might die, or I might want a dual in the future. And if it does die, I can use the Ford Mobile charger until I get a new EVSE.

 

[AKgrampy]

I haven't researched that yet. Where/how do you get the tax credit for a charger? I bought a used MME so the 7500 didnt apply.


Yep, that's why "I want it to be safe" was listed first in my priorities/relevant info list. thx

There is a line item on tax form to receive a credit for installation of a EV charger. I got the $7500 but some nuance in minimum tax prevented me from getting any credit for the charger.

 

[mkhuffman]

Hmmm. I spent zero on an EVSE.... by not installing one. Mobile charger is easily removed from wall for long trips. Install an outlet and try it first. If your charging publically no need to take it along. Ultimate portability and flexibility does not involve hard wired EVSE. I may agree with a 240 outlet being code in future construction. We will probably see induction charging down the road. May be good to start small until deemed necessary. For the first 2 weeks we used the 120 outlet to charge. Quite honestly, makes no difference if it takes 2 or 8 hours to top off overnight. Still get a charged vehicle in the morning when we wake up.

The Ford EVSE is a piece of crap. Sorry, but it is true. If you live in a cool climate, and you can keep the EVSE at a cool temperature, it will probably be fine. But if your garage exceeds 75 F, or if you park outside in the sun, it will burn up and fail. 100% guaranteed.

There have been multiple times in my MME ownership when I needed to leave the house for a long trip unexpectedly. If I had to wait for a 120V charge, I would have to take my wife's ICE. If I had to wait for a 32 Amp charge, same story. 48 Amps is worth every penny, IMO. It isn't DCFC fast, but it doesn't cost that much to get the convenience of a faster charge. To me, it is worth every penny.

 

[Maquis]

I had planned on doing that. I won't be using the outlet for anything else, and tit's not a big deal for me to use the provided portable charger since only occasionally would I need to throw it in the frunk for a trip. But the cost of doing it the other way with a home charger is only about $100 more. And the elctrician said I shouldn't use a plug in charger with a non-gfci protected outlet. But a different electrician said it doesn't need to be a GFCI breaker. This is a as clear as mud

As of the 2020 version, the NEC started requiring all receptacle outlets 50A or less in a residential garage to be GFCI-protected.
So it depends on what year NEC your location is on. Even if not required, it’s safer to have it.

 

[dbsb3233]

I haven't researched that yet. Where/how do you get the tax credit for a charger? I bought a used MME so the 7500 didnt apply.

When you file your taxes next year (for this year), you can claim the 30% credit to lower your total tax liability. It'll just ask for the total $$ amount you spent (EVSE + what you pay the electrician). Just save your receipts. Mine added up to about $1300, so I saved $390 off my taxes.

https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/i8911.pdf

 

[Fixbear]

I had planned on doing that. I won't be using the outlet for anything else, and tit's not a big deal for me to use the provided portable charger since only occasionally would I need to throw it in the frunk for a trip. But the cost of doing it the other way with a home charger is only about $100 more. And the elctrician said I shouldn't use a plug in charger with a non-gfci protected outlet. But a different electrician said it doesn't need to be a GFCI breaker. This is a as clear as mud

Your electrician doesn't realize that the EVSE is a GFCI and Isolation unit.

 

[Bartruffian]

Your electrician doesn't realize that the EVSE is a GFCI and Isolation unit.

Thanks. There were two electricians with different opinions. To confirm, you're saying the line/breaker doesn't need to be GFCI because the charger is, correct?

The one electrician said it was ok to not be GFCI if it is hardwired. Otherwise it would be an unprotected outlet that someone could plug something else into.

 

[ArthurDOB]

Thanks. There were two electricians with different opinions. To confirm, you're saying the line/breaker doesn't need to be GFCI because the charger is, correct?

The one electrician said it was ok to not be GFCI if it is hardwired. Otherwise it would be an unprotected outlet that someone could plug something else into.

This is correct. I just had an electrician here to get an estimate on putting in a plug or hardwiring a charger. He said that a plug MUST have a GFCI, but that a hardwired EVSE did not as it would cause what he called "false trips" of the electrical box's GFCI since they already have one as part of the unit. He told me this is a common issue where GFCI is required on hardwired installations.

He also said that national guidelines are coming in June to require GFCI no matter whether it's a plug or hardwired. I can only take his word for this but have no reason to doubt it. He predicted the volume of complaints will lead to a reversal of this new rule, so I'm having my hardwired charger installed in May!

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