Manually tighten up wheel lug nuts?

AliRafiee

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A standard 1/2" Torque wrench can do 150 ft-lbs easily and is worth the purchase. While you can do it using other methods, this is by far the best.

You will not break the studs at 150 ft-lbs. Old F150 torque specs were 190 ft-lbs on the same size studs.
A nice craftsman one comes in very handy. Deep sockets are also a must for lug nuts or other suspension work. I got impact ones from harbor freight 20 years ago. Very happy with them.
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AliRafiee

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I used an extender for the wrench socket. If you don't use one, you will scratch the rim.
No. Just no. Using an extension will make the torque inaccurate. But not a big deal when dealing with 150 lb-ft.
Next time get some deep sockets too.
 

Teslaeata

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Just hit them with the impact gun and let it impact for 5 to 10 seconds. That should do.

on a serious note, how many people actually retorque lug nuts after having wheels serviced? None.
Not none!
 


GreaseMonkey

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That’d make at least TWO then 😁
Three, please.

I worked in the steel industry for many years and when super smart PhD metallurgists tell you to do it, we should just listen. I hate people who brag about being stupid and reckless.
 

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Last Saturday, we got hit with a snow storm from Canada that came unexpectedly. I switched from summer max perf to snow tires. With a fully charged impact wrench and a 140 stick, I needed over half a revolution with the torque wrench to reach the 150 spec. And this is with lug nuts that have been stretched a few times and high carbon steel sockets to eliminate the play in the system. The sticks are highly inaccurate as they rely on steel chemistry and dimensions to set very specific mechanical properties (super hard to do accurately).

Just torque the goddamned things. It literally takes 5 min (3 min of which to find the tool).
 

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I got to wonder if the people having problems with this are using a shorter torque wrench. Whereas you shouldn't use a bar to extend a given wrench you can certainly get a wrench that is already longer and as such calibrated for the length, and that will give you much more leverage.
 

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I got to wonder if the people having problems with this are using a shorter torque wrench. Whereas you shouldn't use a bar to extend a given wrench you can certainly get a wrench that is already longer and as such calibrated for the length, and that will give you much more leverage.
I also think that 150 is the upper limit of most / some wrenches and wonder if upgrading to a higher capacity one might help a little.
 

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Three, please.

I worked in the steel industry for many years and when super smart PhD metallurgists tell you to do it, we should just listen. I hate people who brag about being stupid and reckless.
Four - I always check. I change the wheels, then drive around for 15 minutes up to highway speeds and around corners to make sure everything is seated well, then return and check the torque. I've had one case where the wheel didn't seat well on the hub once years ago, and wobbled at highway speeds. The check saved my bacon.
 
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MoonRiver

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On my other cars after remounting the wheels and driving a few tens of miles I could turn 10 something degrees bring it back to the specs. Not highway but just city street speed.
 
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MoonRiver

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Here is the pattern Ford recommended as well as many other manufacturers






Ford Mustang Mach-E Manually tighten up wheel lug nuts? 1763174069004-3d



Following this pattern each tire rotates through each corner. Take front left tire as an example.

at the first rotation, it goes to right rear, at the second rotation it goes up to the right front, at the third it moves back to the back, the rear left. At the forth it takes its original spot, the left front.
This is supposed to be the best way to ware every tire in a same degree.
 

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All,

Remember if you’re taking wheels off and refitting to check the mating surfaces are clean, free from corrosion, oxidation, paint and other detritus and contamination on wheels and hubs.

Ensure threads are clean and free from dirt & corrosion.

NEVER lubricate threads or mating surfaces.

Smear a little lubrication only around the spigot onto which centre of the wheel mounts.

And torque and re-check torque of the wheel fixings.

Good & safe rotating everybody?
 

markboris

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NEVER lubricate threads or mating surfaces.
Wasn't going to mention this but since you brought it up.... 😊

Lubricating threads/mating surfaces depends on the lug nuts being used. You are correct not to lubricate with the factory lug nuts but if using aftermarket made from a different material such as titanium, then an anti-seize lubricant is recommended as well as lowering the torque spec. I have a thing for custom fully-forged aluminum wheels and since 2014 been using titanium lug nuts with all my custom wheels. Loctite 51609 LB 8009 Anti-Seize Lubricant is what I've always used and torqued to the recommended 130 lb-ft if the OEM torque spec is 150 lb-ft.
 

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I remember a long time ago it was bias tires cross and radial front to back. It seems it has gotten more complicated over the years. And as such I will bet most people haven't keep up with it. Of course, the overall goal is just to have the tires to wear as evenly as possible. As long as that is happening then most likely for the most part it probably doesn't matter.
1763156620114-h7.webp
This must be AI generated nonsense, because it's wrong, i.e. not what the manual says.

Ford specifies in the manual that the rear tires come forward, and the front tires rotate diagonally to the rear.

Rear left => Front left
Rear right => Front right
Front left => Rear right
Front right => Rear left

Does it matter that it's different? No, what matters is that it's consistent. Discount Tire actually specifies the same as AI. But we should be posting what the manual says, and then explaining you could do it differently as long as it's consistent each time.

That said, I vote the @Administrator ban AI posts. We never used to have any.
Ford Mustang Mach-E Manually tighten up wheel lug nuts? Tire rotation
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