ChasingCoral

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Wonder how it improves drivability? Will have to try.
It's a downshift that gives you energy back.

It's just like the "B" on Leaf.
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ChasingCoral

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How I see it is with one pedal driving, the more you depress the accel pedal, the more you will brake.
And with the L mode, when you lift OFF completely the accel pedal, it will decel the car, like when we downshift in a ICE car.
it would make them 2 different thing
I assume you mean "the more you release the accel pedal"?
 

ChasingCoral

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I sure hope autolock can be turned off. I would think it would be an option, but most of the things that can be disabled in the menus say so in the manual. This does not.

AUTOLOCK
What Is Autolock?
Autolock is a locking feature that locks
your vehicle doors when you start driving.
Autolock Requirements
Autolock locks all the doors when all of the
following occur:
• All doors are closed.
• The vehicle is on.
• Your vehicle reaches a speed greater
than 12 mph (20 km/h).
These days, most cars auto lock. Period.
 

ChasingCoral

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I am very curious as well. Our C-Max Energi has two such modes.....there is "L" and also a grade assist button on the shift handle. "L" has a fair amount of regen but that other button is very effective. My Focus Electric only has the L and does not have the other button so that makes me think it might be because the Energi can't handle max regen (due to smaller, air cooled battery).

The MME has so many other features such as Adaptive Cruise and Speed Sign recognition (with tolerance settings) so I wonder how that will work in the mountains. It's going to be interesting to see how the software handles the various conditions. I am expecting to be pleasantly surprised...
Typically, cruise control on BEVs will regen on downhills to maintain your speed (unlike most ICE that go faster and faster on steep grades). L should have no action when in cruise control either.
 

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Not to rub salt in the wound of our Hawaiian friend, but there might be videos online from other owners regarding the removal of the divider long before Kamuelaflyer gets notification his MME is on the way to the islands. For Kamuelaflyer's sake, I hope I am wrong.
If I get my MME before April, I'll send @trutolife27 and @RonTCat a pound of 100% Kona each. And they can toast my funeral as I'll die of shock. ;)
 


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It's a downshift that gives you energy back.

It's just like the "B" on Leaf.
Thanks; no vehicle I've owned would I throw it into low to increase drivability going down hills ;) . Terminology means something different for EV's. Based on all the different configs and settings you can be playing with this new toy for a while. Appears you can place a bit of the price tag towards entertainment value. Lots new to learn and play with.

Page 152 "charging your vehicle"

WARNING: Do not operate the Ford Mobile Charger in temperature outside its operation range of -22ºF to +122ºF (-30ºC to +50ºC).

If it is below -22 (-30 for us) I thought for sure I would want to leave it plugged in not to freeze the batteries and make sure it has the juice to maintain it. Only normally happens a few times a year but it will happen. Confusing why I would not operate the charger? We definitely have block heaters plugged in below that temp (nothing moves if you don't). Can anyone explain the logic behind this warning and does anyone know of a Nema 14-50 (40 amps) charger that is rated below minus 30 oC?

For reference it also states.

Allowing your battery to cool before charging and setting the maximum state of charge to 90% for everyday usage improves longevity of your high voltage battery.
 

JamieGeek

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Thanks; no vehicle I've owned would I throw it into low to increase drivability going down hills ;) . Terminology means something different for EV's. Based on all the different configs and settings you can be playing with this new toy for a while. Appears you can place a bit of the price tag towards entertainment value. Lots new to learn and play with.

Page 152 "charging your vehicle"

WARNING: Do not operate the Ford Mobile Charger in temperature outside its operation range of -22ºF to +122ºF (-30ºC to +50ºC).

If it is below -22 (-30 for us) I thought for sure I would want to leave it plugged in not to freeze the batteries and make sure it has the juice to maintain it. Only normally happens a few times a year but it will happen. Confusing why I would not operate the charger? We definitely have block heaters plugged in below that temp (nothing moves if you don't). Can anyone explain the logic behind this warning and does anyone know of a Nema 14-50 (40 amps) charger that is rated below minus 30 oC?

For reference it also states.

Allowing your battery to cool before charging and setting the maximum state of charge to 90% for everyday usage improves longevity of your high voltage battery.
The temperature range for the mobile charger is likely due to the temperature range of the components used to build it.
 

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The temperature range for the mobile charger is likely due to the temperature range of the components used to build it.
Thanks; understand but there should be a safety factor of 10 15 degrees in that warning ;) ? Needs to be plugged in at that temp no? I wonder if it is plugged in before it drops below -30 if it is OK? Any opinion for a 14-50 charger with components rated for lower temps?
 

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And it’s ftLb ;)
lb/ft is doubly wrong (there is no division, and the order matters mathematically).
Common usage is foot pounds, which is technically incorrect. It's only used because it flows off the tongue easier. The actual measurement is pounds of force applied to a one foot lever. So Lb-ft is correct. The divider really doesn't matter, because it's not a mathematical expression. It's not "pounds times feet", it's "pounds of force applied to a one foot lever." As usual, the metric system gets it right "Nm". "Newtons of force applied to a one meter lever."
 

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Common usage is foot pounds, which is technically incorrect. It's only used because it flows off the tongue easier. The actual measurement is pounds of force applied to a one foot lever. So Lb-ft is correct. The divider really doesn't matter, because it's not a mathematical expression. It's not "pounds times feet", it's "pounds of force applied to a one foot lever." As usual, the metric system gets it right "Nm". "Newtons of force applied to a one meter lever."
I knew I’d get a taker ;)

Moments are vector math. It’s not T = r *times* f, it’s τ⃗ =r⃗ ×F (except I can’t figure out how to get the arrow over the F).

Cross products are non-commutative. r cross f doesn’t equal f cross r. If it were a dot product, it could go either way.

meter Newtons is mathematically correct, while the convention (Nm) is not.
 
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Reading page 268 of the user manual about jump charging 12V battery - does this mean that a normal ICE vehicle can be used to jump charge the 12V battery? I am assuming so but looking to see if I misunderstand. Looks like I will need a 12v portable charger to jump open the frunk if needed.
 

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Common usage is foot pounds, which is technically incorrect. It's only used because it flows off the tongue easier. The actual measurement is pounds of force applied to a one foot lever. So Lb-ft is correct. The divider really doesn't matter, because it's not a mathematical expression. It's not "pounds times feet", it's "pounds of force applied to a one foot lever." As usual, the metric system gets it right "Nm". "Newtons of force applied to a one meter lever."
By definition it is exact force x distance or # x ft (moment or torque) normal units Kip.ft or #.ft. #/ft is an incorrect representation for the units for moment.
 

ChasingCoral

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Reading page 268 of the user manual about jump charging 12V battery - does this mean that a normal ICE vehicle can be used to jump charge the 12V battery? I am assuming so but looking to see if I misunderstand. Looks like I will need a 12v portable charger to jump open the frunk if needed.
Sure. You can jump with an ICE, a BEV, or a 12v battery sitting on the floor. You also can jump open the frunk with jumper cables.
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