The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS

[CarGuy11]

^^^ Guys wrong thread for checking updates

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[Blue highway]

^^^ Guys wrong thread for checking updates

sorry

 

[chesteroberto]

Low-Cost Power Supply for FDRS --- I read in another post that a member used an RV power supply for FDRS updates. I decided to look into this, and I ended up purchasing this one, a 55-amp unit for $123.: Amazon.com: Powermax RV Converter | 55 Amp | 12V Power Converter with Built-in 4 Stage Smart Battery Charger | 110Vac to 12Vdc | Lithium Compatible | Fully Adjustable Output from 13V to 16.5V | PM4 55A : Automotive

I mated it with this cable set for $17 and clipped off the ring terminals: Amazon.com: YCIND Battery Alligator Clips Clamp Clip-on to 3/8" Ring Eyelet Terminal Boost Cable Heavy Duty 30A Fuse 12V/24V 12AWG Cord 10Ft : Automotive

I previously used a 30-amp bench power supply for FDRS updates, but I knew I had a long IPMA update waiting, so I decided to try the 55-amp power supply. This unit is both a fixed voltage supply, as well as a 3-stage battery charger. It's a little complicated to change from one mode to the other, but the instructions are accurate. You also need a voltmeter to accurately set the voltage, since this is a variable voltage unit without a built-in voltmeter.

I'm really happy with this power supply for this use. I successfully completed the 3-hour IPMA update as well as several other powertrain updates this morning. The LV battery started at 67% SOC, but the power supply never let the voltage drop below 12.2V over the 3-hour period. Note that there are several almost identical supplies on Amazon, so you probably just need to select the one with the best price.

Good luck with your updates!

 

[bshaw]

Low-Cost Power Supply for FDRS --- I read in another post that a member used an RV power supply for FDRS updates. I decided to look into this, and I ended up purchasing this one, a 55-amp unit for $123.: Amazon.com: Powermax RV Converter | 55 Amp | 12V Power Converter with Built-in 4 Stage Smart Battery Charger | 110Vac to 12Vdc | Lithium Compatible | Fully Adjustable Output from 13V to 16.5V | PM4 55A : Automotive

I mated it with this cable set for $17 and clipped off the ring terminals: Amazon.com: YCIND Battery Alligator Clips Clamp Clip-on to 3/8" Ring Eyelet Terminal Boost Cable Heavy Duty 30A Fuse 12V/24V 12AWG Cord 10Ft : Automotive

From what I can see, you're using a supply that can put out up to 55A, but your cable set is rated (and fused) for 30A max. Did the cables get warm during your update session? I'm guessing you were drawing somewhere in the low ~30A range and the fuse was able to hold?
Your 50A supply needs 6 AWG cables to handle the max output safely.

 

[chesteroberto]

From what I can see, you're using a supply that can put out up to 55A, but your cable set is rated (and fused) for 30A max. Did the cables get warm during your update session? I'm guessing you were drawing somewhere in the low ~30A range and the fuse was able to hold?
Your 50A supply needs 6 AWG cables to handle the max output safely.

Yeah, I was concerned about that initially, and I had some 6 and 8 AWG cables without the clamps. I also had the 12 AWG cable set, which I had been using previously with the 30-amp supply. So, I opted to use it this time around. The cables were not warm, and the fuses were fine. Indeed, I was probably drawing around 30 or so amps.

 

[Neil4Real]

No new updates, but a new procedure appeared, seems like Active Park Assist kits might finally be available soon:

 

[CarGuy11]

No new updates, but a new procedure appeared, seems like Active Park Assist kits might finally be available soon:

That's awesome! Does it say what parts are needed if you already have the prep kit?

 

[chesteroberto]

From what I can see, you're using a supply that can put out up to 55A, but your cable set is rated (and fused) for 30A max. Did the cables get warm during your update session? I'm guessing you were drawing somewhere in the low ~30A range and the fuse was able to hold?
Your 50A supply needs 6 AWG cables to handle the max output safely.

@bshaw was correct ---- the cable set I was using is indeed rated at 30A. Fortunately, my long IPMA update did not exceed that current draw. However, to be better prepared in the future, I modified a set of 6 AWG jumper cables by removing two of the clamps and adding a pair of Anderson connectors to make it easier to remove the cables from the supply.

Total cost for the power supply, cables, and connectors was just under $150.

 

[Jeff-NoVA]

Edit - nvm- thanks @generaltso for sorting me out!

 

[generaltso]

Forgive what is a little bit of a crosspost, but after performing updates in FDRS today, I lost the handsfree liftgate on my '22 that I had previously enabled in FORScan. I updated HCM, BCM, CMR, IPMA, PSCM, GWM A & B, APIM, TCU, SCCM, DSM, and GFM.

Problem is, in FORScan, instead of seeing numeric codes like I used to, I now see text descriptions of the various functions in each module. So, in the BCM (now BdyCM in FORScan), I can no longer find the place to enable the handsfree liftgate (I was able to toggle the function back on in APIM, but that just shows the button on the screen and does not actually enable the function. Did Ford get wise to us and just pull the functionality from the BCM? Anybody else experience this?

You should see two different version of the BCM in FORScan. The one that says (As Built) next to it is the one with the numbers.

 

[Jeff-NoVA]

You should see two different version of the BCM in FORScan. The one that says (As Built) next to it is the one with the numbers.

I thought we were not supposed to mess around with that one?

 

[generaltso]

I thought we were not supposed to mess around with that one?

It's just a different view of the same info. But not everything in the As-Built view exists in the "plain English" view. If you changed the numbers before, the As-Built view is where you did it.

 

[Jeff-NoVA]

It's just a different view of the same info. But not everything in the As-Built view exists in the "plain English" view.

Roger, I will go back to that. Perhaps a brain fart on my end.

 

[Mike G]

'22 and '23 are showing up with a new BCM update this morning. Most of the '21 models I checked do not have this update in their list unless it's a car that never got the previous BCM/GFM update combo (frunk fix). That doesn't mean that '21 models won't get a new BCM update soon, it's just that most of them are not showing up with it this morning.

 

[rugedraw]

PSA for the DIYers: A member here @camdenlake had his car at the dealer and they tried updating the IPMA and it got stuck; dealer claims module needs to be replaced. A member on the Lightning forum reported the dealer was updating modules for him and the truck also got stuck on the IPMA module where it needs to be replaced, as well. Dealer tried updating several times and running a PMI and nothing worked. Two EV's in two days is too much of a coincidence, IMO. If it happens at the dealer, warranty will cover it, but if it happens on your driveway, well.......you know.

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