markboris
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Mark
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2019
- Threads
- 43
- Messages
- 5,733
- Reaction score
- 16,379
- Location
- Sonora, CA
- Vehicles
- Currently: '20 Shelby GT500 FPB '24 Mach-E GTP GGM
- Occupation
- Retired
I really was just looking at used Explorer switch and wondering if there was anything different between the different one, and if there was any to avoid.I'm not sure exactly what is being asked here and am kind of confused with what krazieboy is trying to do. In any case I did the same as what Pat (i8iridium) did and purchased the Bronco headlamp switch (M1PZ-11654-AA) removed the liftgate button from that switch, and replaced the Max Defrost switch in my GTPE headlamp switch with that one. Ran a wire from position 12 on the connector to the BCM. #57
To me it looks identical to the Bronco one Mark and Pat used. So it should work. You can try it and let us know! Or maybe I will.I really was just looking at used Explorer switch and wondering if there was anything different between the different one, and if there was any to avoid.
I ordered a used LB5T13D061NB. I'll report back once i get it and can install. Paid $40 shipped. not too bad.To me it looks identical to the Bronco one Mark and Pat used. So it should work. You can try it and let us know! Or maybe I will.
I think I am going to do the same thing. You will probably beat me to the mod because it is difficult for me to find time to work on my car.I ordered a used LB5T13D061NB. I'll report back once i get it and can install. Paid $40 shipped. not too bad.
Maybe. Got a busy few weeks coming up. Guess depends when item actually arrives.I think I am going to do the same thing. You will probably beat me to the mod because it is difficult for me to find time to work on my car.
So I take it that GT owners never us the defrost button?I think I am going to do the same thing. You will probably beat me to the mod because it is difficult for me to find time to work on my car.
I have never used it, and I don't think I ever will. The SYNC screen max defrost selection works just fine if I need to do a quick max defrost while driving. I don't know why they think a button would be useful for that when you can do it via the screen. The hatch button, on the other hand, I will use very often.So I take it that GT owners never us the defrost button?
I finally did this mod a few days ago in my premium after having talked about it with @markboris for a couple of weeks. Here was my process.This is helpful - I have a Select with no traction control switch, so it deceptively (?) looks like a one/one swap between the Sport and MME if I did the wire mod for position 12.
Sounds like I should maybe just pop out the subassembly in case there's a harness difference between the Bronco and MME for this item. Don't want to fry anything if the wires are mapped differently (unless someone has access to the Bronco Sport wiring diagram and can confirm they are otherwise identical.)
I'm in Cali. No need for such urgency to have a button for it heh.So I take it that GT owners never us the defrost button?
Nice modification. How would you like to figure out how to put a horn button either on the passenger door or in center console? It will keep my spouse from screaming in my ear when a fellow driver does something stupid.While I do use the rear hatch somewhat often, I always kick under the bumper to open it (had an Escape for 4 years and was use to it) but rarely need to open or close it from the inside. I was at a friends this morning who also has a Mach-E and she said the one thing she misses is a simple power button to open and close the rear hatch. She doesn't like having to turn the car to accessory mode and make three selections on the center screen. She just wants to push a button.
I thought it couldn't be that difficult to wire up a switch to do this and I was right. I took a look at the wiring diagram in the repair manual and found that both momentary switches in the rear hatch do nothing more than short an incoming wire from the BCM to ground. The BCM is located at the front passenger footwell at the top. Extremely easy to access just remove the panel that hides it and you can get to the wiring. The wire that is needed to tap into is solid brown and located at the large top plug connection. I tapped into it and ran the wire to the center console where I installed a small momentary switch just below my subwoofer volume control. For the ground I used the black/blue wire going to the parking brake switch in the console. All the black/blue wires throughout the car are grounds. I had this momentary switch laying around but I am going to change it out with one that is much flatter.
I now have a working power button that will open and close the rear hatch from inside the car without having your key fob, phone or needing to turn on the car. The car still needs to be in Park for it to operate just as before. It works just like the one in my 2014 Escape did. I could have mounted the switch is several easy to see locations but like to conceal my work (like I did the subwoofer volume control) so nothing looks "added on". Just drop your hand down in front of the console and they are both easy to use. Besides if I ever needed to remove it, all I'd have to do is put a little flat plug in the hole and no one would know any different.
It took me about an hour to do the entire thing but now that I did it, when I do hers, probably should only take 30 minutes. I took quick photos of where I tapped into the wiring and it was before I permanently attached and taped up the wires.
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Tony, while that will not fit within the Mach-E headlamp switch in any way, you could cut a rectangular hole to make it fit somewhere else in the lower dash (in a flat area).I already have the rear hatch release button mounted right by the Frunk release latch but I was thinking instead of ordering a whole assembly (Bronco part)
Maybe this might fit:
https://www.amazon.com/WODOFO-GDR-Replacement-61319200316-61316921846/dp/B09TKC2HK8/ref=sr_1_34_sspa?crid=3P6YGRBECGJVN&keywords=trunk+release+button&qid=1652120160&s=automotive&sprefix=trunk+release+button,automotive,117&sr=1-34-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVDRYRVFHM0NJM1ZVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTczMzM4MkhONFNaUUtUNUlTRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjgyNTQ1MUY3N1cwRUoxNkJVRCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
Eric, are you serious? Not sure if you were being funny but that shouldn't be an issue. I would just need to look at the wiring diagrams and see if it's possible.Nice modification. How would you like to figure out how to put a horn button either on the passenger door or in center console? It will keep my spouse from screaming in my ear when a fellow driver does something stupid.
Great write up, and thanks for the photos! Do you happen to have a pic of this?I'm not that technical so I decided not to go through the trouble to install a pin into slot 12 I just stripped a little excess and shoved the wire in there and taped it down to the harness. You don't have to remove anything from the harness because pin 12 is completely empty and unused. I had some issues testing it before I put everything back, ended up finding out that the tap at the BCM wasn't sitting right so I adjusted that a bit and it worked fine. The wire at the headlamp was never a problem.