Can't open driver's door first

OH2AZ2OH

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Hey guys, my car also acknowledges my presence when I approach (lights on, puddles, etc) but front door will not unlock unless I’m using the Fob. Today I learned some try opening the rear door first, then the front. To my amazement, that sequence worked and started the car without the fob. Now I stumbled onto this thread and will try the battery disconnect tomorrow when I have daylight. So to be cLear on page 13, disconnect the 7 trip clips holding down the to
panel, then disconnect the negative, do all on reverse and that’s all? How long did you have the disconnect before you connect again? No having to mess with settings or PAAK re-enrollment?
Yes, that's it. I left mine disconnected for about a minute, but I'm not sure it even needs that long. No loss of settings or PaaK. Your range estimate will get reset, so your estimated range will be lower until you do a few charges. Someone said that they lost their trip meters, but I did not.
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OSK

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Have the same problem an on off problem unlock the rear door. Then a few days ago I got the problem to unlock the driver door.
In need to open back door before open driver door.
Await time for program update.
OSK.
 

LBMachE

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Yes, that's it. I left mine disconnected for about a minute, but I'm not sure it even needs that long. No loss of settings or PaaK. Your range estimate will get reset, so your estimated range will be lower until you do a few charges. Someone said that they lost their trip meters, but I did not.
Yep, still in the same boat. Looks silly for all watching me open rear door first so I can open front driver door and be on my way. LOL. Wishing there was a fix.
 

jnashguitar

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Great advice, thank you! I was having the same problem with driver's door. Disconnected the 12V battery for a few seconds, and PAAK is now working properly again.

One piece of advice to anyone else who tries this: the battery terminals are a little confusing compared to ICE 12V batteries. After removing the frunk's rear cover, you have access to the 12V negative terminal, but it has multiple connections to it. It's not a problem: loosen the 10mm bolt, and the whole assembly will slide off the battery post. It was slightly stuck for me, so I pried the metal clamp up with a flat screwdriver--just a little nudge and it came off smoothly. Be careful not to use any force on the plastic parts clamped to the battery--they look fragile. You could probably also accomplish this by removing the other end of the negative cable, which is grounded to the car (step 7 in the battery guide). But it's under the side cover, so would require more access. I had good luck removing the terminal directly from the battery.

Thanks again!
 

Pbosse

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I went to the dealer, he took note, he saw nothing in the system.

But I made a few more test. The real problem is that the car won't unlock as I approach. And pushing the driver's door button don't unlock it either.

If I push the driver's door, I don't hear anything but clearly the car wants to open the door because if I quickly push the rear door button or the unlock button on the keybob, the door pops open each time.

Easy fix for now until I go to the dealer is to unlock the car with the button on the fob like we did back in the days in 2008 :). The driver's door button clearly works,the problem is with the unlocking.
I got exactly the same issue…is the dealer resolve the problem ?
 


Dr Obnxs

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I had this as well. I didn't need a module reflash. All I needed was the 12 V battery charged. One other time I had issues with the 12 V battery not charging and I got a ton of error messages. Charged it up and all the funky stuff went away.

I think there are several root causes for this symptom. For me, it that the car let's the 12 V battery get too low. YMMV.

Matt
 

portlandg

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I searched but didn't find similar issue. I had my Mach-E on February 12th. Until March 5, nearly everything works great (got a few bugs and wind noise and a low windshield washer light that doesn't come off).

But since last week, the car doest seem to detect my keyfob. When I approach the car, mirror doesn't unfold, keypad doesn't light and nothing happens if I try to open the door. Even if I push unlock on the keyfob, the doors unlock but I can't still open it. There are few walkaround
- Open the trunk first
- Open the rear passenger door first
- One time (I have this on video), after several unsuccessful attempts, I push unlock on the fob and it opens the door without touching it

One weird thing that happens a few times while doing the rear passenger door walkaround is that after I tried to open my door first without succes, I go to the rear passenger door and when I push the rear button, both rear passenger and driver's door opens at the same time. I don't have it on video, I tried twice but it didn't work.

But in short, since 4 days, I can't enter the car withouth opening the trunk or another door first. I can live with a few bugs while I wait for the first OTA but not being able to enter in the car bothers me a lot. I wasn't a fan of those door handles at first, why change door handles that worked since 100 years. My fear are now real. I don't know how it will be corrected and I now think about how much that kind of trouble will cost after the warranty expires?
MAKE SURE TO TELL YOUR DEALER AND GET HIM TO ESCALATE WITH TECH TEAM.

This seems to be a problem with a lot of cars on both side of the pond. Mine has been in for an investigation but NO faults were found but it still does it. Symptoms are exactly the same as yours.
 
OP
OP
Wildthing

Wildthing

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MAKE SURE TO TELL YOUR DEALER AND GET HIM TO ESCALATE WITH TECH TEAM.

This seems to be a problem with a lot of cars on both side of the pond. Mine has been in for an investigation but NO faults were found but it still does it. Symptoms are exactly the same as yours.
I had the problem solved twice (I think they just made a reset the second time). I went for a third time (second time for rear passenger door) and they said they have to change the latch. They orderered it but it seems this week that I was successful a lot of time to open the rear door (vs about 1/50 before that). I have no explanation to why it seems to sudently works but since I have the issue since April (one month after my driver door was solve with the SSM), I will let them change the latch.
 

DaveQ

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Mine stopped recognizing my fob yesterday. I can't open the driver's door unless I open the rear door first or press the unlock on the key fob. Very frustrating. Does this sound like a door button replacement?
 

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Dr Obnxs

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Mine stopped recognizing my fob yesterday. I can't open the driver's door unless I open the rear door first or press the unlock on the key fob. Very frustrating. Does this sound like a door button replacement?
In the short term, charge your 12 volt battery.
 

Dr Obnxs

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This is a symptom with multiple causes. I've had it myself and it was fixed with a charge of my battery. As the 12V battery drains (another known problem) there are lots of small problems that show up. This is one of them.

I don't know if the last posters problems are due to the BCM needing an upgrade or due to the 12V battery not getting fully charged.
 

back_at_it_19

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Mine stopped recognizing my fob yesterday. I can't open the driver's door unless I open the rear door first or press the unlock on the key fob. Very frustrating. Does this sound like a door button replacement?
Fixed on my end with the dealer software update.
 

DaveQ

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Have the same problem an on off problem unlock the rear door. Then a few days ago I got the problem to unlock the driver door.
In need to open back door before open driver door.
Await time for program update.
OSK.
There must have been some update a few days ago that messed up our doors. I have had the car for 10 months and this is the first problem. Unless the 12v battery is going bad.
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