Can't open driver's door first

[iankellogg]

So, I had this issue, also showing up after an OTA update. Dealer service first claimed a bad drivers side antenna, confirmed I had the latest Body Control Module SW, and found the root cause was a low charge on my 12V battery! Been fine ever since!

I've been having this issue too but this made me think about trying a 'reset' on the vehicle. I pulled the 12V battery negative terminal off for a few minutes and put it back on. So far the locks have been working as expected.

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[SashaLondon]

My rear doors buttons do not work if the car is locked. Also, the lock buttons do not work on the rear of the car. I hope an update can sort it as I don't have the time to go to the dealer to sort this sort of stuff out (they are not that close). The lock on the front doors work, and if they go I can use the keyfob. Unless it all goes to sh&* then I have to get it sorted.

 

[OH2AZ2OH]

I've been having this issue too but this made me think about trying a 'reset' on the vehicle. I pulled the 12V battery negative terminal off for a few minutes and put it back on. So far the locks have been working as expected.

This worked for me as well. Car was built in early June, driver's door could not be opened first from day one. Lock icon on driver's door did not lock the car, but worked from the back left door - I didn't really try any of the others. Dealer said it was a bad door latch module and ordered a replacement with an estimated 8 week delivery.
With the encouragement of several members of this forum, I pulled the rear cover off the frunk and disconnected the 12V battery for about 30 seconds. All doors function properly now, including the door lock icon. The GuessOMeter took a big hit on range, dropping my full charge estimate from 285 to 240-245, but that is slowly climbing as I drive it more. Actual consumption is unchanged, of course.

 

[SashaLondon]

This worked for me as well. Car was built in early June, driver's door could not be opened first from day one. Lock icon on driver's door did not lock the car, but worked from the back left door - I didn't really try any of the others. Dealer said it was a bad door latch module and ordered a replacement with an estimated 8 week delivery.
With the encouragement of several members of this forum, I pulled the rear cover off the frunk and disconnected the 12V battery for about 30 seconds. All doors function properly now, including the door lock icon. The GuessOMeter took a big hit on range, dropping my full charge estimate from 285 to 240-245, but that is slowly climbing as I drive it more. Actual consumption is unchanged, of course.

Does it reset any other settings or your profile?

 

[Crilly]

No, it resets the miles left to go.

 

[kmusk01]

I am having the same problem with out MME. I can walk up to the car with PAAK and have to keep hitting the unlock (circle) button on the drivers door. After about 8-10 seconds it will finally open. However, if I walk up to the passenger front door it will open nearly the first time every time.

I would like to "reboot' the car by disconnecting the battery, but can't find a good/easy way to do it. I know its in the frunk area and panels need to be removed, but not able to find a good how-to. Anyone have any tips/tricks to remove the panels needed in the frunk to reset the battery?

Ken~

 

[Major]

I had a similar problem until the dealer did the update for PAAK.

 

[OH2AZ2OH]

Does it reset any other settings or your profile?

It remembered all my settings.

 

[OH2AZ2OH]

I am having the same problem with out MME. I can walk up to the car with PAAK and have to keep hitting the unlock (circle) button on the drivers door. After about 8-10 seconds it will finally open. However, if I walk up to the passenger front door it will open nearly the first time every time.

I would like to "reboot' the car by disconnecting the battery, but can't find a good/easy way to do it. I know its in the frunk area and panels need to be removed, but not able to find a good how-to. Anyone have any tips/tricks to remove the panels needed in the frunk to reset the battery?

Ken~

You only need to remove the rear frunk panel. Start at one corner. Just pull firmly until the first fastener pops, then work your way to the next and then the next. There are maybe 7 or 8 holding the rear panel on. I lost one. Maybe 4 or 5 actually stayed in the car, and I had to work those out and reinsert them into panel before reinstalling. The battery is on driver's side (assuming you're in a LHD country), much smaller than an ICE battery. 12VAGM is clearly printed on it. Only one terminal is accessible with just the rear panel off. Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut enough to slide the clamp off of the terminal. Goes back together easy.

I only did this on my own after giving the dealer a shot at fixing it. They took apart the door panel and disconnected/reconnected the latch module. That did nothing other than waste half a day of my time, and with the added bonus that I now have a very faint occasional rattle in the door. I did the 12V disconnect a week and a half ago, and the driver's door has opened 100% for me. Prior to this, it worked maybe twice total.

(Note: I'm not an expert. Take similar precautions as you would jumping an ICE battery. YMMV, etc.)

 

[kmusk01]

Just so I am clear, from the manual here:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/...room/resources/2021_Mach-E_BatteryRemoval.pdf

On page 13 that is the part you are referring to that I need to take off, correct?

Thanks,

Ken~

 

[OH2AZ2OH]

Just so I am clear, from the manual here:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/...room/resources/2021_Mach-E_BatteryRemoval.pdf

On page 13 that is the part you are referring to that I need to take off, correct?

Thanks,

Ken~

Correct, step 6, actual page 13, page is labeled 1-11.

 

[Crilly]

Not the bottom panel. The first top panel. Page 5 shows it already removed.

 

[kmusk01]

So I was able to remove the upper panel and reset the battery. Took all of 5 minutes and PAAK is now working perfectly for the all the doors So simple and didn't have to go to the dealership.

Thanks,

Ken~

 

[OH2AZ2OH]

So I was able to remove the upper panel and reset the battery. Took all of 5 minutes and PAAK is now working perfectly for the all the doors So simple and didn't have to go to the dealership.

Thanks,

Ken~

I know, right?! I seriously wonder if many of the PaaK issues just need this. Also, I wonder if part of the dealer update process has them disconnect the 12V, and people think the update did it but really it was just this.

 

[LBMachE]

I know, right?! I seriously wonder if many of the PaaK issues just need this. Also, I wonder if part of the dealer update process has them disconnect the 12V, and people think the update did it but really it was just this.

Hey guys, my car also acknowledges my presence when I approach (lights on, puddles, etc) but front door will not unlock unless I’m using the Fob. Today I learned some try opening the rear door first, then the front. To my amazement, that sequence worked and started the car without the fob. Now I stumbled onto this thread and will try the battery disconnect tomorrow when I have daylight. So to be cLear on page 13, disconnect the 7 trip clips holding down the to
panel, then disconnect the negative, do all on reverse and that’s all? How long did you have the disconnect before you connect again? No having to mess with settings or PAAK re-enrollment?

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