Car is completely dead

[eleven24]

I get that song stuck in my head every time I see one on the road.

Technically though, it should be used for marketing every single EV that isn't an Ioniq, in keeping with the song lyrics not actually being ironic.

Very true. So it would be...

It's like a HVJB when you're already late
or a dead battery from a soft-ware up-date...

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[A-A-Ron]

Very true. So it would be...

It's like a HVJB when you're already late
or a dead battery from a soft-ware up-date...

It's a free charger, when you're at 98%

 

[eastern refugee]

If it is completely dead it is called the BRICK effect. Right now there is a class action law suit against Ford for this. Mine happened twice and now Ford is buying it back. It has to do with the fact that the car actually has two batteries. one is a standard 12 volt normal car battery and the other is the lithium bater. The lithium battery charges up the normal battery which starts the car. The issue is that there is a connection's problem so that the small battery is not getting recharged. This is EXTREMELY dangerous as this could happen at ANY time such as driving on the freeway in the left hand lane at 70 MPH and all of a sudden the car dies and since it is all electric you have zero control and can cause quite a car crash. In short take it to the dealer. Do NOT fix it your self.

 

[TheVirtualTim]

This is a case of a utility company doing it wrong. Many do it RIGHT. In fact, if they simply access the EVSE (assuming you have a compatible one), that's perfect.

Mine goes THROUGH Ford, i.e. with their cooperation. I gave my FordPass info to no one. They, through Ford, reset my charging hours a handful of times a month. The beauty is my EVSE isn't in that program, so while they get the data, they can't MAKE me charge because my EVSE controls that.

I got a $500 rebate from them to let them see the charging data, AND I get $100 a year to let them try to stop me from charging.

Interesting ... I was in the beta for that program with DTE. My car is on the dedicated EV charging plan (separate meter on the house just for charging) where I get a reduced rate for charging overnight, but would pay a MUCH higher rate if I charge during the daytime on weekdays.

So when I got a "please charge" event ... I (a) prevented the car from charging and (b) contacted DTE to ask ... do I get a reduced rate because they asked me to "please charge"? The answer ... nope! They would have still charged me the premium rate if they do a "please charge" event during weekday daytime hours. So I opted out of the program.

I hadn't considered that I could just program the EVSE to refuse to charge the car during weekday/daytime hours so even if the car wants to charge, the EVSE will block it.

 

[RickMachE]

Interesting ... I was in the beta for that program with DTE. My car is on the dedicated EV charging plan (separate meter on the house just for charging) where I get a reduced rate for charging overnight, but would pay a MUCH higher rate if I charge during the daytime on weekdays.

So when I got a "please charge" event ... I (a) prevented the car from charging and (b) contacted DTE to ask ... do I get a reduced rate because they asked me to "please charge"? The answer ... nope! They would have still charged me the premium rate if they do a "please charge" event during weekday daytime hours. So I opted out of the program.

I hadn't considered that I could just program the EVSE to refuse to charge the car during weekday/daytime hours so even if the car wants to charge, the EVSE will block it.

Yup. Or unplug. Or be at your targeted charge (although maybe they raise it to 100%).

 

[TheVirtualTim]

Shortly after taking delivery of my '21, I had a low (dead) 12v battery that trigger lots of errors (due to a software bug that has long since been patched).

I own a 4 amp battery "maintainer" style charger and initially I connected that to charge the 12v. It turns out ... it was barely enough to get the car try to wake up ... but as modules tried to start, it would kill the battery. It resulted in lights blinking on and off, etc.

I disconnected that charger and got my normal battery charger -- which can supply either a 10 amp or 15 amp charging rate. Even at 10 amps it was more than enough to fully wake the car and everything came back online, all modules started up ok and everything was good again (I left it on the car until it showed the 12v battery was fully charged).

So for anyone that has a 12v issue ... you'll need a charger that supply adequate power. Don't use a trickle-charger / battery-maintainer.

 

[kennethjk]

Shortly after taking delivery of my '21, I had a low (dead) 12v battery that trigger lots of errors (due to a software bug that has long since been patched).

I own a 4 amp battery "maintainer" style charger and initially I connected that to charge the 12v. It turns out ... it was barely enough to get the car try to wake up ... but as modules tried to start, it would kill the battery. It resulted in lights blinking on and off, etc.

I disconnected that charger and got my normal battery charger -- which can supply either a 10 amp or 15 amp charging rate. Even at 10 amps it was more than enough to fully wake the car and everything came back online, all modules started up ok and everything was good again (I left it on the car until it showed the 12v battery was fully charged).

So for anyone that has a 12v issue ... you'll need a charger that supply adequate power. Don't use a trickle-charger / battery-maintainer.

Wouldn’t a trickle charger like a CTEK , given enough time charge the battery to full and then be able to start the car?

 

[TheVirtualTim]

Wouldn’t a trickle charger like a CTEK , given enough time charge the battery to full and then be able to start the car?

The problem I had ... was at that at such a low rate of charge, various modules were all starting to boot up ...and fail. Even after hours on the trickle charger the car made extremely little progress.

Modern computer modules require variable power depending on how much work they are doing. When idle ... it's very little. But when working on something they pull more power. My guess is that with every module trying to boot all at the same time was pulling more power than the 4 amp charger could supply.

It really _needs_ to be able to charge faster than all modules combined could possibly draw. IF the _only_ thing you have available is a trickle charger, then I'd probably disconnect one of the leads from the 12v battery so that nothing can attempt to pull power while the car is charging.

 

[kennethjk]

The problem I had ... was at that at such a low rate of charge, various modules were all starting to boot up ...and fail. Even after hours on the trickle charger the car made extremely little progress.

Modern computer modules require variable power depending on how much work they are doing. When idle ... it's very little. But when working on something they pull more power. My guess is that with every module trying to boot all at the same time was pulling more power than the 4 amp charger could supply.

It really _needs_ to be able to charge faster than all modules combined could possibly draw. IF the _only_ thing you have available is a trickle charger, then I'd probably disconnect one of the leads from the 12v battery so that nothing can attempt to pull power while the car is charging.

The CTEK is 7 amp. Don’t know if that’s enough

 

[Mach-Lee]

Wouldn’t a trickle charger like a CTEK , given enough time charge the battery to full and then be able to start the car?

The Mach-E has a huge inrush current (>200 amps) when you connect the battery (lots of capacitors charging), which means that you need a very beefy battery charger or jump pack to "boot up" the modules. If the battery charger or jump pack is too small, it will boot loop trying to initialize modules and the lights will just flash on and off since the car is using more current than can be supplied.

If you are stuck without a big enough battery charger, you will have to completely disconnect the 12V battery from the car while charging it (need a 10 mm socket). After the battery is fully charged, then reconnect it to the Mach-E. You will get a big spark and then hopefully everything comes to life.

Many jump start attempts have failed on the Mach-E due to the high inrush current and inadequate jumper packs being used.

 

[Melancholy1980]

The results are in…

looks like I have to wait for Ford to provide a software fix for SSM 51513. Cars home again and working though.

 

[kennethjk]

I was constantly getting low 12v battery, someone recommended turning off wake up lights.

haven’t had an issue in over a month since I made the change.

 

[Mach-Lee]

The results are in…

looks like I have to wait for Ford to provide a software fix for SSM 51513. Cars home again and working though.

That was a tough read.

Pretty sure you had a SOBDM update available last time I checked, too bad they didn’t apply that. What did your case manager say?

 

[Melancholy1980]

That was a tough read.

Pretty sure you had a SOBDM update available last time I checked, too bad they didn’t apply that. What did your case manager say?

I asked them to update all modules yesterday, they claimed they did. Guessing they didn’t but trying to understand what exactly they did in those notes was rough. Case manager hasn’t responded to me yet. When I got home to charge the car the same behavior continued so it looks like I’m going to be living with it until they come up with a fix.

 

[SWO]

I asked them to update all modules yesterday, they claimed they did. Guessing they didn’t but trying to understand what exactly they did in those notes was rough. Case manager hasn’t responded to me yet. When I got home to charge the car the same behavior continued so it looks like I’m going to be living with it until they come up with a fix.

You said earlier that the car was working, but now also "the same behavior continued."

What behavior? Are you able to charge it?

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