Charging Issues

[oleosmirf]

I have a Select AWD with the Tech Package and I charge my MME every night in the garage to 90%. That would normally get me around 190 miles left, however I noticed that over the last few weeks my vehicle will still be at 90% (usually 89%) but it will only show 160 miles of range remaining.

For example this morning, I came down ready to leave for work and I'm at 89% with 155 miles remaining (should be close to 190). And then I get to work and the 19 miles driven is roughly correct, but only 136 miles left?

Anyone know why am I only topping out at 155 miles when I am set to 90% charge? Thanks.

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[RickMachE]

Many posts on this in the last few days.

COLD TEMPS

As it gets colder out, EVs lose range. In the coldest of winter, expect up to a 40% loss.

The GOM overcompensates on its projection. You could charge when you get home and see 190, then wake up and see 170 not having driven at all.

Precondition for departure to maximize range.

Use the EHeat less if you want more range.

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

Yes. It’s cold out. Range decreases as temperature decreases. With that said, the range meter is not terribly accurate for most. It weights current conditions rather heavily. You may be more range than displayed. Those that live in genuinely cod areas can give you greater guidance than me.

 

[Scooby24]

Welcome to fall with an EV.

 

[Tampamike]

No problems here ….. in Florida.?

 

[oleosmirf]

Many posts on this in the last few days.

COLD TEMPS

As it gets colder out, EVs lose range. In the coldest of winter, expect up to a 40% loss.

The GOM overcompensates on its projection. You could charge when you get home and see 190, then wake up and see 170 not having driven at all.

Precondition for departure to maximize range.

Use the EHeat less if you want more range.

I did not realize this prevents the vehicle from reaching the correct level of charge before it even leaves the garage! I figured it would just lose range at a greater rate so instead of coming back at 75% i'm down to 50%. Oh well.

Any tips to make sure I always leave with full 90% charged? Normally I just plug it in when I'm home for the night, it shuts off at 90% and then I leave in the morning. I also use the app to start the car a few minutes before i leave in the AM.

Should I be setting the MME to start charging at like 4/5 AM so it doesn't lose charge while sitting idle in my garage?

 

[RickMachE]

You're not understanding.

90% of charge is what you were at both in the warm weather and the cold weather.

90% gets you more miles in warm weather than cold weather.

In an ICE vehicle, in the cold weather with winter gas you get lower mpgs. No different than you are experiencing with your EV.

 

[zvez]

I did not realize this prevents the vehicle from reaching the correct level of charge before it even leaves the garage! I figured it would just lose range at a greater rate so instead of coming back at 75% i'm down to 50%. Oh well.

Any tips to make sure I always leave with full 90% charged? Normally I just plug it in when I'm home for the night, it shuts off at 90% and then I leave in the morning. I also use the app to start the car a few minutes before i leave in the AM.

Should I be setting the MME to start charging at like 4/5 AM so it doesn't lose charge while sitting idle in my garage?

set your charging period to end just before you leave in the morning, that way if cold temps knock a bit out of the charge it will/should keep it topped up to your target %

 

[Nklem]

Yes, I am in Maine with the same car. Here are my Hints that I use with my Hyundai EV and will apply to my Mach E.

You can drive it like an ICE with all of your Auto Settings, 74 F inside and you will lose 33%-40% of range from now through March. You will simply charge more. That's they way EVs work.

That is no different than Tesla, Kia, Bolt, all EVs. I am sorry that manufacturers do not tell customers this and the EPA should have two ratings. None of them do and it's misleading for sure for a new EV buyer. While ICE vehicles lose range too, they use waste heat for heating, so there is no heating penalty, so they lose 5-10% and it's un-noticable in a car with a 15 gallon gas tank. Your Mach E has a 1.8 gallon gas tank (equivalent). My Hyundai, a 3/4 gallon tank (equivalent).

Yes some newer models have a heat pump, but that helps down to 40-32F and in very cold freezing weather, a heat pump can actually use more power than e-heat. I estimate no more than a 5-10% loss difference with a heat pump, depending on Climate. From my Hyundai experience, I get the same range as the Canadian Ioniqs equipped with Heat pumps.

With my Hyundai Ioniq EV, I Maintain only a 19% loss in EPA range down to 10 degrees F. (135 miles EPA, 110 miles is my Winter Range).

Here are some hints and what I do and will do with my Mach E as well.

One big factor is battery heating with the Mach E. It's electric through a liquid heater, so there will be a penalty in range (like ALL other EVs except my Hyundai). Conversely, a warmer battery should give you better range. Ford is very quiet on how their conditioning works. My Hyundai is fan cooled and heated by the cabin inside temp and there are electric heating pads wrapping the batteries to keep the battery warm only when plugged in. Battery heating only comes on when it's very very cold (and I really do not know if My Hyundai has battery heaters, No one can tell me. Even the dealer. It was only provided in Cold Climates, only. I assume it does as we have had no issues down to -10F).

Anyway, my recommendations:

Be sure to precondition before you go while plugged in. This helps. I even turn heating off for the first 5-15 miles since the cabin is toasty.

For best Winter range, use e-heat, but on "low fan 1" after preconditioning. Keep cabin temp settings at 68-70F, use seat and steering wheel heat as much as possible. Those use very little power compared to E-Heat.

If you can, use Recirculation on e-heat as much as possible (I do not know if the Ford allows this, like my Hyundai, but this helps range a lot as you are not heating cold outside air constantly).

Also, I coast as much as possible. Going down a big hill, I will put it in neutral to save battery. I know a lot of people disagree, but I find coasting is more beneficial to range than regen. I do not use 1 pedal.

Mine was charged to 90% last night, 38 degrees F this AM, and I had 171 Miles at 90% or 190 miles at 100%. I am very happy to only lose 10% range at 38F-45F ambient degrees.

Welcome to Winter. If managed right, you can keep your losses to 20-30% of factory range ratings by modulating heat, dressing warm and using the heated seats and wheel as much as possible.

While I usually take my coat off in my ICE cars for trips, in my EV's in Winter, I keep it on. Wool socks too.

I will say the Mach E appears to be well insulated. It holds the heat much better than my Hyundai. I hope this works in my favor.

The next few months will be interesting to log range vs ambient temperature.

 

[TRP]

I have noticed this as well here in TN. However, when I start driving and the battery gets warmer I am actually getting my normal range based on percentages.

 

[oleosmirf]

Yes, I am in Maine with the same car. Here are my Hints that I use with my Hyundai EV and will apply to my Mach E.

You can drive it like an ICE with all of your Auto Settings, 74 F inside and you will lose 33%-40% of range from now through March. You will simply charge more. That's they way EVs work.

That is no different than Tesla, Kia, Bolt, all EVs. I am sorry that manufacturers do not tell customers this and the EPA should have two ratings. None of them do and it's misleading for sure for a new EV buyer. While ICE vehicles lose range too, they use waste heat for heating, so there is no heating penalty, so they lose 5-10% and it's un-noticable in a car with a 15 gallon gas tank. Your Mach E has a 1.8 gallon gas tank (equivalent). My Hyundai, a 3/4 gallon tank (equivalent).

Yes some newer models have a heat pump, but that helps down to 40-32F and in very cold freezing weather, a heat pump can actually use more power than e-heat. I estimate no more than a 5-10% loss difference with a heat pump, depending on Climate. From my Hyundai experience, I get the same range as the Canadian Ioniqs equipped with Heat pumps.

With my Hyundai Ioniq EV, I Maintain only a 19% loss in EPA range down to 10 degrees F. (135 miles EPA, 110 miles is my Winter Range).

Here are some hints and what I do and will do with my Mach E as well.

One big factor is battery heating with the Mach E. It's electric through a liquid heater, so there will be a penalty in range (like ALL other EVs except my Hyundai). Conversely, a warmer battery should give you better range. Ford is very quiet on how their conditioning works. My Hyundai is fan cooled and heated by the cabin inside temp and there are electric heating pads wrapping the batteries to keep the battery warm only when plugged in. Battery heating only comes on when it's very very cold (and I really do not know if My Hyundai has battery heaters, No one can tell me. Even the dealer. It was only provided in Cold Climates, only. I assume it does as we have had no issues down to -10F).

Anyway, my recommendations:

Be sure to precondition before you go while plugged in. This helps. I even turn heating off for the first 5-15 miles since the cabin is toasty.

For best Winter range, use e-heat, but on "low fan 1" after preconditioning. Keep cabin temp settings at 68-70F, use seat and steering wheel heat as much as possible. Those use very little power compared to E-Heat.

If you can, use Recirculation on e-heat as much as possible (I do not know if the Ford allows this, like my Hyundai, but this helps range a lot as you are not heating cold outside air constantly).

Also, I coast as much as possible. Going down a big hill, I will put it in neutral to save battery. I know a lot of people disagree, but I find coasting is more beneficial to range than regen. I do not use 1 pedal.

Mine was charged to 90% last night, 38 degrees F this AM, and I had 171 Miles at 90% or 190 miles at 100%. I am very happy to only lose 10% range at 38F-45F ambient degrees.

Welcome to Winter. If managed right, you can keep your losses to 20-30% of factory range ratings by modulating heat, dressing warm and using the heated seats and wheel as much as possible.

While I usually take my coat off in my ICE cars for trips, in my EV's in Winter, I keep it on. Wool socks too.

I will say the Mach E appears to be well insulated. It holds the heat much better than my Hyundai. I hope this works in my favor.

The next few months will be interesting to log range vs ambient temperature.

Awesome thank you.

It's just with an ICE vehicle, even if the MPG decreases significantly during colder months, I'm still leaving the gas station with a full tank of gas.

It's a little frustrating/annoying that I'm leaving my house with 75% charge instead of 90% despite it sitting in my garage, plugged in all night.

 

[oleosmirf]

You're not understanding.

90% of charge is what you were at both in the warm weather and the cold weather.

90% gets you more miles in warm weather than cold weather.

In an ICE vehicle, in the cold weather with winter gas you get lower mpgs. No different than you are experiencing with your EV.

gotcha. Thanks!

 

[RickMachE]

Also, the 90% dropping to 89% may in fact not be loss, but "rounding". I sometimes see this change when I back out of my garage, and I haven't used 1%.

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

Yes, I am in Maine with the same car. Here are my Hints that I use with my Hyundai EV and will apply to my Mach E.

You can drive it like an ICE with all of your Auto Settings, 74 F inside and you will lose 33%-40% of range from now through March. You will simply charge more. That's they way EVs work.

That is no different than Tesla, Kia, Bolt, all EVs. I am sorry that manufacturers do not tell customers this and the EPA should have two ratings. None of them do and it's misleading for sure for a new EV buyer. While ICE vehicles lose range too, they use waste heat for heating, so there is no heating penalty, so they lose 5-10% and it's un-noticable in a car with a 15 gallon gas tank. Your Mach E has a 1.8 gallon gas tank (equivalent). My Hyundai, a 3/4 gallon tank (equivalent).

Yes some newer models have a heat pump, but that helps down to 40-32F and in very cold freezing weather, a heat pump can actually use more power than e-heat. I estimate no more than a 5-10% loss difference with a heat pump, depending on Climate. From my Hyundai experience, I get the same range as the Canadian Ioniqs equipped with Heat pumps.

With my Hyundai Ioniq EV, I Maintain only a 19% loss in EPA range down to 10 degrees F. (135 miles EPA, 110 miles is my Winter Range).

Here are some hints and what I do and will do with my Mach E as well.

One big factor is battery heating with the Mach E. It's electric through a liquid heater, so there will be a penalty in range (like ALL other EVs except my Hyundai). Conversely, a warmer battery should give you better range. Ford is very quiet on how their conditioning works. My Hyundai is fan cooled and heated by the cabin inside temp and there are electric heating pads wrapping the batteries to keep the battery warm only when plugged in. Battery heating only comes on when it's very very cold (and I really do not know if My Hyundai has battery heaters, No one can tell me. Even the dealer. It was only provided in Cold Climates, only. I assume it does as we have had no issues down to -10F).

Anyway, my recommendations:

Be sure to precondition before you go while plugged in. This helps. I even turn heating off for the first 5-15 miles since the cabin is toasty.

For best Winter range, use e-heat, but on "low fan 1" after preconditioning. Keep cabin temp settings at 68-70F, use seat and steering wheel heat as much as possible. Those use very little power compared to E-Heat.

If you can, use Recirculation on e-heat as much as possible (I do not know if the Ford allows this, like my Hyundai, but this helps range a lot as you are not heating cold outside air constantly).

Also, I coast as much as possible. Going down a big hill, I will put it in neutral to save battery. I know a lot of people disagree, but I find coasting is more beneficial to range than regen. I do not use 1 pedal.

Mine was charged to 90% last night, 38 degrees F this AM, and I had 171 Miles at 90% or 190 miles at 100%. I am very happy to only lose 10% range at 38F-45F ambient degrees.

Welcome to Winter. If managed right, you can keep your losses to 20-30% of factory range ratings by modulating heat, dressing warm and using the heated seats and wheel as much as possible.

While I usually take my coat off in my ICE cars for trips, in my EV's in Winter, I keep it on. Wool socks too.

I will say the Mach E appears to be well insulated. It holds the heat much better than my Hyundai. I hope this works in my favor.

The next few months will be interesting to log range vs ambient temperature.

Thanks for posting this. It should be stickied somewhere. It’s very helpful for those where winter is something significant you below 58 F.

 

[RickMachE]

Thanks for posting this. It should be stickies somewhere. It’s very helpful for those where do ter is something significant you below 58 F.

"where do ter is something significant you below 58 F" ?

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