Difference in installing a 32 or 40 amp level 2 charger?

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YFD_233

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With 13 hours to charge and only 50-60 miles a day, you could actually get away with level 1 charging, weather dependent. You’d slowly lose SOC over the week and be able to top off on the weekends. So for you, I’d say the deciding factor should be more about cost, rather than time to charge. A 40 amp EVSE will charge 25-30% faster than a 32 amp. But it sounds like you don’t need either of those really.
But if 110 charges 2 miles per hour then 24 miles per day will get me behind I guess. Is there smaller to an 32A?

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But if 110 charges 2 miles per hour then 24 miles per day will get me behind I guess. Is there smaller to an 32A?
Sure. Clipper creek (clippercreek.com) makes some, but they aren't that much cheaper.

As I said, it won't necessarily save much money to get a lower power EVSE so if that is the impetus then use the included charger in a 240V outlet for now.
 
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Sure. Clipper creek (clippercreek.com) makes some, but they aren't that much cheaper.

As I said, it won't necessarily save much money to get a lower power EVSE so if that is the impetus then use the included charger in a 240V outlet for now.
For a 220 line or 240 what breaker do I need. 30 amp?
 
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RickMachE

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Ok guys. What’s the difference in installing a 32 or 40 amp level 2 charger? And what’s a good cheaper one to get, so many to choose from?
There are many threads discussing this.

First question should not be what you asked. First question is - does my utility company provide either discounted chargers, or rebates if I buy a specific brand/model of charger?

Assuming the answer is no, the second question should be - am I happy to use the included mobile charger, at home, and not keeping it in the vehicle?

Assuming you want to buy a charger, and #1 above didn't apply, you should consider whether you want to be a UL listed charger, or a cheap piece of crap that hasn't been certified safe.

Assuming you want a UL listed charger, do you want the ability to use an app to control it, or are you willing to let FordPass control it (given the issues with FordPass at time, I chose "No way in hell" for this question.

Note that many of the chargers allow you to easily set, via an app, the level of amperage. For example, I have a JuiceBox 48. I can set it as low as I want, or up to 48amps. The cost difference between a JuiceBox 32, 40, or 48 is very minimal. On the JuiceBox site, a 32 is $619 right now. A 40 is $649, and a 48 is $689. So $70 more to increase the charging speed by 50%.

Sometimes, you may have all night to charge, and slow is fine. What if you go on a trip, and come home nearly empty, and then want to drive to somewhere and have too little charge? I turn my JB48 up to 48amps, and I can leave within an hour or less.

I'd suggest starting with your utility company's website.
 


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Ok guys. What’s the difference in installing a 32 or 40 amp level 2 charger? And what’s a good cheaper one to get, so many to choose from?
at home, with 1-phase 240v power, the most that the MME will accept is 32amps...
so there really is no NEED to buy a separate charger or a 'faster' charger; just use the included mobile charger which can charge at 32 amps if you have a NEMA 14-50 outlet (with 50amp breaker).

Max AC 1-phase rate (typical residential 120v/240v split-phase power): 7.4kW Max AC
3-phase rate (at public charge stations with 'commercial' power): 11kW
 

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Emporia has an EVSE up to 40A plug / 48A hardwire on sale for $399. While it is not UL listed, it is designed to UL (and other) standards. I use their charger and it works well. Best to check with your utility company to see if they have discounts, etc. They are often tied to specific manufacturers/models. If you want to keep costs at a minimum and plan for the future, you could install a 14-50 plug and use the 32A portable charger. Make sure to install wire that can handle 60A 48*1.2->60 amp circuit), so if you want to upgrade to a 48A charger in the future you can.
 
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There are many threads discussing this.

First question should not be what you asked. First question is - does my utility company provide either discounted chargers, or rebates if I buy a specific brand/model of charger?

Assuming the answer is no, the second question should be - am I happy to use the included mobile charger, at home, and not keeping it in the vehicle?

Assuming you want to buy a charger, and #1 above didn't apply, you should consider whether you want to be a UL listed charger, or a cheap piece of crap that hasn't been certified safe.

Assuming you want a UL listed charger, do you want the ability to use an app to control it, or are you willing to let FordPass control it (given the issues with FordPass at time, I chose "No way in hell" for this question.

Note that many of the chargers allow you to easily set, via an app, the level of amperage. For example, I have a JuiceBox 48. I can set it as low as I want, or up to 48amps. The cost difference between a JuiceBox 32, 40, or 48 is very minimal. On the JuiceBox site, a 32 is $619 right now. A 40 is $649, and a 48 is $689. So $70 more to increase the charging speed by 50%.

Sometimes, you may have all night to charge, and slow is fine. What if you go on a trip, and come home nearly empty, and then want to drive to somewhere and have too little charge? I turn my JB48 up to 48amps, and I can leave within an hour or less.

I'd suggest starting with your utility company's website.
Ok I have con Edison so I’ll check this site.
Are you saying the Ford charger that comes with the MME can have troubles? If so then I need to get an aftermarket. I’m ok with just the home charger. This is a commuter and that’s it. No trips. Maybe also I can put the charger on a timer for times when electric is cheap. Con Ed sucks.
 
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YFD_233

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at home, with 1-phase 240v power, the most that the MME will accept is 32amps...
so there really is no NEED to buy a separate charger or a 'faster' charger; just use the included mobile charger which can charge at 32 amps if you have a NEMA 14-50 outlet (with 50amp breaker).

Max AC 1-phase rate (typical residential 120v/240v split-phase power): 7.4kW Max AC
3-phase rate (at public charge stations with 'commercial' power): 11kW
so the nema 14-50 needs a 50 amp breaker? Is that minimum? This is what I have on an exterior sub panel for my pool. You think this will be enough room?
Ford Mustang Mach-E Difference in installing a 32 or 40 amp level 2 charger? A339891E-762B-4B2A-B247-C666793B6A08
Ford Mustang Mach-E Difference in installing a 32 or 40 amp level 2 charger? 0E63AC4D-23C0-4CA9-B82F-A877728164FF
 
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RickMachE

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Ok I have con Edison so I’ll check this site.
Are you saying the Ford charger that comes with the MME can have troubles? If so then I need to get an aftermarket. I’m ok with just the home charger. This is a commuter and that’s it. No trips. Maybe also I can put the charger on a timer for times when electric is cheap. Con Ed sucks.
The mobile charger should work fine. See page 2 of the attachment.

However, note that it is controlled by the car and the FordPass app. Yes, you can easily set the hours. Whether the car chooses to follow them 100% of the time...
 

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dtbaker61

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Ok I have con Edison so I’ll check this site.
Are you saying the Ford charger that comes with the MME can have troubles? If so then I need to get an aftermarket. I’m ok with just the home charger. This is a commuter and that’s it. No trips. Maybe also I can put the charger on a timer for times when electric is cheap. Con Ed sucks.
The included mobile charger is 'fine', other than a somewhat delicate thumb trigger latch that can break off if you drop it and it lands wrong.

You do NOT need to put the charger on a mechanical timer... and you would want to be SURE the timer is rated for 50amps even though the charger pulls 32amps. you can set charge times in FordPass.
 
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YFD_233

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The included mobile charger is 'fine', other than a somewhat delicate thumb trigger latch that can break off if you drop it and it lands wrong.

You do NOT need to put the charger on a mechanical timer... and you would want to be SURE the timer is rated for 50amps even though the charger pulls 32amps. you can set charge times in FordPass.
I’m not sure I have the room for a 50 amp breaker. Look at my pics I posted of my exterior sub panel. I think there is a 50 in there already but I don’t use it
 

dtbaker61

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so the nema 14-50 needs a 50 amp breaker? Is that minimum? This is what I have on an exterior sub panel for my pool. You think this will be enough room?
A339891E-762B-4B2A-B247-C666793B6A08.jpeg
you should use a 50amp breaker with a NEMA 14-50 outlet, even though the mobile charger pulls only 32amps, it pulls for HOURS, so it needs a 50amp breaker. And, the wires from the breaker to outlet should be 6AWG for the L1,L2,N and 8awg for G to meet 'best practices' and code in most places.
 

dtbaker61

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I’m not sure I have the room for a 50 amp breaker. Look at my pics I posted of my exterior sub panel. I think there is a 50 in there already but I don’t use it

If you already have a 50amp, definitely use that; fine for 32amp Ford Mobile charger
and make sure the wire from breaker to NEMA 14-50 outlet is 'proper'.... #6awg for L1,L2,N, and #8 for ground
 

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Here's my 2 bits:

If you want to use the included Ford Mobile EVSE, then you will need a 240V/50A circuit with a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. If you have any question at all, make sure you hire an electrician.

Other than that, going to a permanently installed EVSE, then it just comes down to how much you want to spend, how much room you have on your panel for draw, etc. Again, if you have any questions, consult with an electrician, which you would have to do anyway if you are going to permanently install an EVSE for your vehicle.

One other bit, while some of the more expensive EVSE's might be overkill, the nice thing about some of them is that you can set the circuit information, therefore making them more versatile. For example the ChargePoint Home Flex that I have is configurable for anything from 240V/20A to a whopping 240V/80A circuits, but the EVSE draw is limited to 240V/50A (70A or 80A circuit).

https://chargepoint.ent.box.com/v/Flex-Install-EN-US

This can be helpful if you are limited to a 20A or 30A circuit now, but could upgrade to a 60A or 70A circuit in the future, as you don't need to purchase any new hardware.

Of course, check for local power company or government programs. Good luck!
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