Distance between lifting points?

[tls]

After years of dithering I might finally buy myself a QuickJack for Christmas. Every year as I start swapping the snow tires onto our 3 vehicles (Lightning and 2X Mach-E) never mind my parents' (they aren't getting any younger but they still drive around a lot in the winter) and the occasional sibling or friend, I think "well, too late this season but I should buy myself a QuickJack before it's time to swap the other tires back on in the spring" - but then don't do it.

One thing about the QuickJack is that there are about 50 different models each with its own limitations on min and max lift point spread and max weight.

I just double checked the distance between the "lift here" arrows on the Lightning and surprisingly it's nearly 60" - I actually thought it was shorter, it is on an ICE F150 with the short box. The Mach Es are away at college and parked at work respectively. Does anyone happen to know offhand the distance between front and rear lift points on the Mach E?

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[Fremont Kid]

I looked at the QuickJack site. Does not appear that the rubber blocks that contact vehicles can be moved to the MME lift locations. Have you inquired?

 

[HughJazzol]

I just measured 57 inches from center to center of both lift points.

 

[Fremont Kid]

I just measured 57 inches from center to center of both lift points.

I know you aren't the original poster but can the QuickJack rubber blocks be positioned at those locations?

 

[tls]

The blocks (or truck adapters, or pinch weld adapters, all depending on vehicle) on a QuickJack can be moved to any distance between the "minimum lift point spread" and "maximum lift point spread" for each model. Given the minimum on their shortest model is 27" and the maximum on their longest model is 76" I'm pretty sure they have something that will fit. The question is whether there's a single model (if so, likely the 7000TLX) that will fit my Lightning, my Mach Es, and my folks' vehicles. So just trying to find out what that distance for the Mach Es is. I'll go measure it myself tonight if nobody knows, but at the moment the cars are not where I am.

 

[tls]

I just measured 57 inches from center to center of both lift points.

Oh, fantastic! Thank you! That makes it easy, all the TLX and ELX models will fit with "room to spare" and I can even probably get away with the TL after reconfirming that distance for the Lightning, which measured out to somewhere around 58-59" when I checked it hastily last night.

 

[HughJazzol]

I know you aren't the original poster but can the QuickJack rubber blocks be positioned at those locations?

i wasn't familiar with QJ, so I looked them up, and they look quite wide. The lifting points of the MME are narrow because the battery is RIGHT THERE. So, I don't know if I can answer your question and I don't know what the rubber blocks look like.

Search for mme lifting videos on YT, and you'll see what the lifting spaces look like, and that should help you answer.

 

[CoyoteMach]

The Lightning is pretty heavy. Make sure the the lifting capacity is adequate. If it can lift the Lightning, then all the others you mention will be fine.

 

[tls]

I know you aren't the original poster but can the QuickJack rubber blocks be positioned at those locations?

I've only seen a QuickJack in person once (they had a demo at my local Costco a few years ago) but I don't see any reason to think the blocks can't go anywhere within the minimum and maximum distances given by the spec sheet for each model - are you asking about the distance between the two lifting frames? There's no rigid connection between them, so I don't think there should be any problem - are you saying the width between the lifting points is so narrow the frames might bump into each other?

 

[Fremont Kid]

I've only seen a QuickJack in person once (they had a demo at my local Costco a few years ago) but I don't see any reason to think the blocks can't go anywhere within the minimum and maximum distances given by the spec sheet for each model - are you asking about the distance between the two lifting frames? There's no rigid connection between them, so I don't think there should be any problem - are you saying the width between the lifting points is so narrow the frames might bump into each other?

Their website photos do not show top-down so difficult to see if the channel is open or solid. However, I just looked again. They have an EV specific model:
6000ELX Extended-Width Portable EV Car Lift

 

[ack154]

I own the 7000TL model and it works fine with the Mach-E. I do NOT use the Mach-E specific lift points but as long as you're not on the battery rail, it'll be fine. I don't use the rubber blocks - I use the SUV adapter kit to get the extra height (even though my photo shows the rubber blocks).

When I don't use the QJ, I use a cross beam on my Harbor Freight jack to jack one side at a time - again, as long as you're not on the battery rail, it's fine. I use this method when I want to rotate tires (and my tires are directional so I don't need to cross them).

https://www.harborfreight.com/steel-floor-jack-cross-beam-64051.html

NOTE: This is not professional guidance - everyone should consult their manual before before lifting their vehicle properly or otherwise.

 

[markboris]

Don't want to throw a wrench in here but I have a BendPak MD-6XP. BendBak is the parent company of QuickJack. The MD-6XP is a mid-rise scissors lift with a 6,000 lb capacity. It has no problem swinging the arms out to lift the Mach-E (and many other vehicles) in the right position. I got this lift when it was around $3K about 7 years ago but they have gone up since then. Yes it is more expensive than a QuickJack but it's a really great lift if it is something you will use all the time, which I do. The center is not open but I don't care about that, especially with an EV. I use the QuickJack blocks on top of the lift's round pads. The pads fit perfectly at the lift points on the Mach-E.

They list it as a portable lift because you can roll it around with a special dolly that it comes with but believe me, at 1,000 lbs, it takes at least two very strong if not three people. I have mine positioned where I want in one of the stalls and bolted 4x4's to the garage floor front and back so it cannot move while going up and down. It has been the best addition to my garage (beside the mini-split).

I have lots of photos working on cars while on the lift.

 

[GreaseMonkey]

The QuickJack blocks work perfectly on the Mach-E. I’ve used them over a dozen times and they work like a charm. I don’t have the lift, only the blocks which I use with a floor jack. I keep them in the trunk in the same pocket as the mobile charger.

 

[GreaseMonkey]

Don't want to throw a wrench in here but I have a BendPak MD-6XP. BendBak is the parent company of QuickJack. The MD-6XP is a mid-rise scissors lift with a 6,000 lb capacity. It has no problem swinging the arms out to lift the Mach-E (and many other vehicles) in the right position. I got this lift when it was around $3K about 7 years ago but they have gone up since then. Yes it is more expensive than a QuickJack but it's a really great lift if it is something you will use all the time, which I do. The center is not open but I don't care about that, especially with an EV. I use the QuickJack blocks on top of the lift's round pads. The pads fit perfectly at the lift points on the Mach-E.

They list it as a portable lift because you can roll it around with a special dolly that it comes with but believe me, at 1,000 lbs, it takes at least two very strong if not three people. I have mine positioned where I want in one of the stalls and bolted 4x4's to the garage floor front and back so it cannot move while going up and down. It has been the best addition to my garage (beside the mini-split).

I have lots of photos working on cars while on the lift.

Mark, is your flooring coated with epoxy or polyaspartic? How long has it been and are you happy with it? It looks great in pics, but sometimes there are defects only you can see.
Note: my Mach-E is super jealous of yours. They were made a couple of weeks apart and are almost identical. But only one has a shitty garage (am still working on it) and has to endure harsh Midwest winters

 

[markboris]

My floor is epoxy painted. When I moved in I did it myself. It has been 10 years this month and is in great shape with no cracking, peeling, lifting, etc. It is the second floor I've done. The house before this did my floor and I was in that house 30+ years. My current house I used Rust-Oleum's two part epoxy paint made for floors. Not sure if they even make it today. The floor I did in the previous house I used a two part paint that was from a company that only made it for garage floors and I liked the way it turned out better but I mean it is a garage floor. I cover the parts that the cars park on with RaceDeck Flow-Form plastic flooring with a carpeted edging.

Previous house

Current house. I went with a semi-gloss this time as the high gloss was more slippery when wet. Also did not have enough flakes on this one but if you run out, you are screwed since the epoxy cures fairly fast. No time to get more.

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