jason330i

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Anybody ever consider the Ford version of the Thinkware U1000?

Part # VNL3Z19G490D

Definitely overpriced, but I think it comes with an ODB cable for easier installation.
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sabre7844

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I still haven't gotten around to using the fuse taps to install the dashcam to my liking (Still tapped off the mirror)... So right now, the cameras come on and start recording 20s after I start the car... No parking mode yet.

As for the quality of the cameras, I think they work fine, better image quality than the A129 that I have in my other cars. I have the in cabin camera mounted at the very front of the panoramic roof, so that it only sees the top of my head but all of the rear seats. It doesn't do too much in terms of looking out the side windows though (may need to mount that more forward and lower in order to see that).
Hi I hope you can help me out here, the hardwire that came with my dash cam came with Built-in fuse so I was looking at tapping into the wires under the mirror panel any further information on what wires you tapped into for live / neg
 

tobin1920

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I just enable auto-mute which I know doesn't completely mute, but my music is normally loud enough so that it doesn't bother me much. If I'm on the phone however it's a pain in the ass especially since I have mine mounted at the headliner, close to the microphone. I have a little plastic "stick" that I created and keep in the center console which I used to hit the mute button when those cases happen. I also use it for WiFi updates which is like every 3 days. when you have to push the "yes" button.
You were totally right about this, auto mute is just fine with the redline 360c. I haven't felt the need to use the button I installed once yet.
 


dmitry

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Thank you all for great guidance.
Finally yesterday I had free time to install dashcam. To have parking mode I decided to connect camera to the fuse. The most difficult part was to run the wire through rubber boot on the rear. But with few attempts and forum help I did it successfully. Good advice to use lubricant. I didn’t took pictures of whole process because I followed @MachDoc instructions. But some steps I did differently. Ground wire I connected to the bolt which is already there. To avoid any issues with side airbag I didn’t run rear camera wire through the headliner but through the bottom. I found out this way more simple to be done. I started from the front camera and all excess wire I have hidden in C-pillar. I like Thinkware cameras because they have features like battery discharge control and off timer. With MME small battery this features are very convenient because I don't want to be parking mode turned on constantly when the car is parked in my garage.
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 875341CB-42FF-4FCA-B721-E6BDF35BC499
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector FFD1E38B-9EF2-4B6A-88B2-384C70D501B2
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 0A1B6381-5B34-4BBD-86CB-C7479E1FAB69
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 8F72C019-88DD-44F5-BD01-4ECC900EF445
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector E4B7FA3A-688F-4EEA-8BCB-72A012C10495
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 4A56CB81-77D5-49BA-B6BC-6C1F84CC73BF
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector A1E86B3C-A374-4363-9508-EC9E04356A20


Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 576175FC-1DEF-4780-AE72-A1286950DFCA


Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector D4A12D46-91D3-42C9-AD3E-73EA97A6B57B
 

jimitoast

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Thank you all for great guidance.
Finally yesterday I had free time to install dashcam. To have parking mode I decided to connect camera to the fuse. The most difficult part was to run the wire through rubber boot on the rear. But with few attempts and forum help I did it successfully. Good advice to use lubricant. I didn’t took pictures of whole process because I followed @MachDoc instructions. But some steps I did differently. Ground wire I connected to the bolt which is already there. To avoid any issues with side airbag I didn’t run rear camera wire through the headliner but through the bottom. I found out this way more simple to be done. I started from the front camera and all excess wire I have hidden in C-pillar. I like Thinkware cameras because they have features like battery discharge control and off timer. With MME small battery this features are very convenient because I don't want to be parking mode turned on constantly when the car is parked in my garage.
I like what you did here. I am planning to install my dashcam (VanTrue S2 - 3 channel) and radar (Uniden R7) soon. Did you route the rear camera wires underneath the lower door trim? If so, any tips on how to remove that trim? Were you able to keep the wires completely out of sight going across the b-pillar? Thanks!
 

jimitoast

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Hmmm that's strange because I tapped into that same tap 1-2 with a BlackVue, power magic and escort redline 360c. No problems at all. Are you sure you got a good connection?

All of the mini fuses are always on. The only switched are the larger double micro fuses.

I just went out and took a picture of what I did for the accessory power. You can see 3 wires, 2 in and 1 out.

Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector D4A12D46-91D3-42C9-AD3E-73EA97A6B57B
Thanks for posting this picture. Similar to you, I am planning to hardwire both a radar (Uniden R7) and Dashcam (VanTrue S2 - 3 channel) attached to a Power Magic Pro.

It sounds like you connected your radar and power magic pro to the same switched circuit (location 1/2). I can't tell from the picture how you connected the 2 red wires together. What type of connector did you use? Did you then connect the single wire (carrying load for both devices) to a single micro3 add-add-a-tap and connect that to the 1/2 location? Any reason why you didn't just use the the crimp connector that comes attached to the micro3 tap (maybe both wires won't fit into it)? What size fuse size (amp rating) did you use?

Secondly, from what I understand, the power magic pro can be used for other dashcams (besides BlackView dashcams). Does that sound right to you? I plan to use it for a VanTrue s2 - 3 channel.

Thanks in advance for your expert guidance!
 

DevSecOps

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Thanks for posting this picture. Similar to you, I am planning to hardwire both a radar (Uniden R7) and Dashcam (VanTrue S2 - 3 channel) attached to a Power Magic Pro.

It sounds like you connected your radar and power magic pro to the same switched circuit (location 1/2). I can't tell from the picture how you connected the 2 red wires together. What type of connector did you use? Did you then connect the single wire (carrying load for both devices) to a single micro3 add-add-a-tap and connect that to the 1/2 location? Any reason why you didn't just use the the crimp connector that comes attached to the micro3 tap (maybe both wires won't fit into it)? What size fuse size (amp rating) did you use?

Secondly, from what I understand, the power magic pro can be used for other dashcams (besides BlackView dashcams). Does that sound right to you? I plan to use it for a VanTrue s2 - 3 channel.

Thanks in advance for your expert guidance!
I'll have to take a look at the car to tell you for sure why I did what I did since that was a while ago and I don't remember. Unfortunately my car is currently 120 south of me broken down.

What I can say right now is that the power magic pro is garbage on this car because it doesn't have the fine level of tuning for the voltage that's needed. The 12.5 is too high of a cutoff since the car routinely drops below that and 12.0 is never obtainable because the HVB will top off the LVB before that happens. I would recommend the VicoVation Vico-Power Plus Battery Discharge Prevention (BDP) Device. You can set it more precisely and I have mine set at 12.2 or 12.3 (again can't check right now).
 

jimitoast

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I'll have to take a look at the car to tell you for sure why I did what I did since that was a while ago and I don't remember. Unfortunately my car is currently 120 south of me broken down.

What I can say right now is that the power magic pro is garbage on this car because it doesn't have the fine level of tuning for the voltage that's needed. The 12.5 is too high of a cutoff since the car routinely drops below that and 12.0 is never obtainable because the HVB will top off the LVB before that happens. I would recommend the VicoVation Vico-Power Plus Battery Discharge Prevention (BDP) Device. You can set it more precisely and I have mine set at 12.2 or 12.3 (again can't check right now).
Thanks for the tip on the power magic pro. I hope they get you up and running quickly with a HVBJB that actually addresses the root-cause of the problem.
 

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I like what you did here. I am planning to install my dashcam (VanTrue S2 - 3 channel) and radar (Uniden R7) soon. Did you route the rear camera wires underneath the lower door trim? If so, any tips on how to remove that trim? Were you able to keep the wires completely out of sight going across the b-pillar? Thanks!
Yes, I run wire under. The rubber seal can be take off very simple, after that you’ll see a lot of space where you can hide the wire. Through the B-pillar I used fish, but instead of going on the top part of the B-pillar I did through the bottom part.
 

jimitoast

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Yes, I run wire under. The rubber seal can be take off very simple, after that you’ll see a lot of space where you can hide the wire. Through the B-pillar I used fish, but instead of going on the top part of the B-pillar I did through the bottom part.
Thank you!
 

dmitry

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My original post https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...a-dashcam-and-radar-detector.5542/post-484860

UPDATE:
Safety turn off feature in dash cam to prevent battery discharge works well, but sometimes I still receive “Drain electric system” message. And I decided to add reset button for turning off parking mode when my car is parked in garage. For that purpose I used momentary normally closed button. I just reset parking mode only when needed and when I turn on the car next time parking mode will be active by default.
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 8C4F60A2-9D67-4A58-809E-415168404E32
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 2AA942A2-737D-44CF-BA22-3C6C9B575807
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 182BCFE4-79D2-43FE-8A99-89602BB9C0D1
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 40399959-655D-4D2D-98BF-AF03D80DAE9A
Ford Mustang Mach-E DIY Tutorial for Hardwiring a Dashcam and Radar Detector 90CF0A06-29CB-49E4-BD7E-B7863FD4242D
 

.Eduardo

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First of all, thank you @MachDoc for this post. I will be installing my DR900X this weekend. Your post cleared a couple questions I had.


Note: Another advantage of Blackvue cameras equipped with WiFi is that one can automatically download all videos via LAN (Local Area Network) once the camera is within range of one’s home WiFi network and is connected to it.

There is a bash script I’m running via cronjob in a PC here at home. It looks for the camera locally (static IP) to download videos.

Should you be interested in such automation, I will be happy to post details here.

Best,
Eduardo
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