That article was written years ago. Get out a multimeter and test the various possibilities. I wired up my 2023 in minutes using similar tap points. No fob or tpms issues.
I pulled my hair for couple of hours and ended up driving to stereo shop to get help. I still dont know how to put this back if I remove it again.Jeff, this is fantastic. Thank you, it gave me the confidence to install my own dash cam this way. My biggest issue is the A column cover, how the hell did you get that back on? It’s driving me nuts, I don’t believe anything else is obstructed but the two clips up top are just not letting me in far enough to close it up. Any words of wisdom?
Edit: Be smarter than me: pull the black clips out and then attach them to the A column cover, it'll then snap right into the other piece.
I know it can really be a pain to put back in. If you can align the lower one first, it will help. Just don't force anything as it can deform the plastic plugs making this process even harder.
With the tips in this thread and this YouTube video, I was able install my new Uniden R8 radar detector close to, but not quite in the device window to the left of my rearview mirror. I used a mirror-tap kit with a 15" wiring harness that worked perfectly. Have we reached any consensus on whether the Mach-e's window coatings severely impair the operation of radar detectors? If so, is it just laser, or certain bands of radar? Is operation significantly improved if I can raise it up higher into the communications device window? Thanks!
Looking at this post, it might not make much difference for me, as my 2024 MME Rally edition doesn't have the "IRR" designation on my windshield, right? I have the "heated" icon, but it doesn't say "IRR" next to that as pictured above.23 CR1 job 2 Canadian car
I have had my R3 in that location on both my 21 and my 23 GT and I get extremely long distance detection.
IRR glass is only used on cars with the Panoramic Glass roof. Both my 2021 GT-PE and 2024 GT have metal roofs and the same front glass Rallys have since Rallys only have metal roofs). That said, both types of front glass have internal layers that severely attenuate most RF frequencies. So your radar detectors and other RF devices should be placed in the black areas of the glass. ??
The fuse taps you need are called Micro-2 and Micro-3 taps. If you leave the fuses for the camera in line, you can have a 50A fuse in the fuse tap and it won’t matter, as the smaller fuses will blow to prevent harm to the car in the event of a short or an over-draw. My fuse taps have 20A fuses in them and the fuses included in the wiring for my dash cam are still intact. ??Hello,
I found the following fuse taps: a smaller one with a 10-amp fuse and a larger one with a 15-amp fuse.
From what I’m reading, the larger one won't fit the Mach-E, and I should be looking for a Micro3 fuse tap — is that correct?
Also, should I insist on using a 2.5A fuse, or is 10A/15A acceptable as well?
Thanks
As the previous poster commented, you need micro 2 and micro 3. I differ from them in the fuses I use.Hello,
I found the following fuse taps: a smaller one with a 10-amp fuse and a larger one with a 15-amp fuse.
From what I’m reading, the larger one won't fit the Mach-E, and I should be looking for a Micro3 fuse tap — is that correct?
Also, should I insist on using a 2.5A fuse, or is 10A/15A acceptable as well?
Thanks
Thanks! Just to confirm — when you said the camera wiring has small fuses, you meant the inline fuses that are built into the hardwire kit near the power wires, right?
My camera's hard wire kit came with fuses inline with the switched and always-on power leads. This photo doesn't seem to include inline fuses. In this case, you should obtain fuses for your fuse taps that are of the correct rating for those two circuits. ??Thanks! Just to confirm — when you said the camera wiring has small fuses, you meant the inline fuses that are built into the hardwire kit near the power wires, right?
