does find your keyless entry code - factory

[highland58]

Where can I find the Keyless Entry Code? Does this still work? I tried it and it did not seem to work.

1. Locate the intelligent key backup slot.
2. Place the first programmed fob in the backup slot with the buttons facing down.
3. Press the Start/Stop button once and wait 4 seconds.
4. Press the Start/Stop button again and remove the key.
5. Insert the second programmed fob into the backup slot.
6. Press the Start/Stop button once and wait 4 seconds.
7. Press the Start/Stop button again and remove the key.

The factory-set code will appear in the information display briefly. It may not display until after other warning messages have been displayed first.

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[Tosh]

it works for me, but the procedure is a bit different:

• Locate the intelligent key backup slot.
• Place the first programmed fob in the backup slot with the buttons facing down up.
• Press the Start/Stop button once and wait 4 seconds.
• Press the Start/Stop button again and remove the key.
• Insert the second programmed fob into the backup slot.
• Press the Start/Stop button once and wait 4 seconds.

The factory-set code did appear in the information display, and stayed on until I hit the "OK" button.

 

[SteveMach-ee]

I used this procedure to program a 3rd keyfob. Make sure the 4 second pause is not too long. A one-one thousand, two-one thousand count is too long.

 

[ChuckUK]

The factory code is also displayed on the data label in the fuse box in the passenger footwell. I’m in the UK so not sure if this is reversed for US cars.

 

[RickMachE]

Where can I find the Keyless Entry Code? Does this still work? I tried it and it did not seem to work.

On a little plastic card in your glove box or your paperwork.

 

[markboris]

The factory code is also displayed on the data label in the fuse box in the passenger footwell. I’m in the UK so not sure if this is reversed for US cars.

It is the same for us here Chuck. Label is on the BCM (fusebox) in the passenger footwell. All 7 numbers are used in the European Union and China. In North America, we just use the first 5.

 

[highland58]

I don't see that label, mostly just a fan it appears. I did finally get the factory code using the fobs.
I was trying to program a third fob, the factory door code popped up during that. It said programmed, but the buttons don't work. I can start the car with the third fob in the slot though. Gemini gave me some things to try but none of them worked. Gemini said the frequency may be different on that fob, so it can't communicate unless in the slot.
Here is what Gemini said to try:

Since the key starts the car but the buttons are dead, try this specific Mach-E sequence:

1. Get in the car with only the new third key.
2. Place the new key in the center console backup slot.
3. Press the Unlock button on the driver's door panel 3 times.
4. Press and release the Brake pedal once.
5. Press the Unlock button on the door panel 3 more times.
6. The Start/Stop button on the dash should begin to flash.
7. Within 60 seconds, press the Start/Stop button once.
8. Now, immediately press the Unlock button on the actual key fob itself.

3. If that fails (The "Deep Sleep" Reset)
Sometimes the Mach-E modules get "stuck" after programming a new key.

• Take all keys out of the car.
• Walk away (about 20 feet) so the car "goes to sleep."
• Wait about 2 minutes.
• Walk back with only the new key and try to use the buttons. Often, once the car power-cycles, it recognizes the new remote.

If the step above fails, check the back of your original key and your new key for the FCC ID.

• North American Mach-E fobs typically use 902 MHz.
• Some aftermarket fobs or fobs from older Ford models look identical but operate on 315 MHz.
• The Problem: The car can read the security chip of a 315 MHz key when it's sitting directly in the slot (using short-range induction), but the car's long-range antenna is tuned to 902 MHz, so it will never "hear" the buttons.

 

[markboris]

I don't see that label, mostly just a fan it appears.

In the front passenger footwell, under the glovebox against the carpet, behind the floor mat, is the fuse box panel cover. Behind the cover is the BCM/fusebox. On every BCM there is label that is prominently displayed.

You don't have this fuse box cover?

 

[RickMachE]

I don't see that label, mostly just a fan it appears. I did finally get the factory code using the fobs.
I was trying to program a third fob, the factory door code popped up during that. It said programmed, but the buttons don't work. I can start the car with the third fob in the slot though. Gemini gave me some things to try but none of them worked. Gemini said the frequency may be different on that fob, so it can't communicate unless in the slot.
Here is what Gemini said to try:

Since the key starts the car but the buttons are dead, try this specific Mach-E sequence:

1. Get in the car with only the new third key.
2. Place the new key in the center console backup slot.
3. Press the Unlock button on the driver's door panel 3 times.
4. Press and release the Brake pedal once.
5. Press the Unlock button on the door panel 3 more times.
6. The Start/Stop button on the dash should begin to flash.
7. Within 60 seconds, press the Start/Stop button once.
8. Now, immediately press the Unlock button on the actual key fob itself.

3. If that fails (The "Deep Sleep" Reset)
Sometimes the Mach-E modules get "stuck" after programming a new key.

• Take all keys out of the car.
• Walk away (about 20 feet) so the car "goes to sleep."
• Wait about 2 minutes.
• Walk back with only the new key and try to use the buttons. Often, once the car power-cycles, it recognizes the new remote.

If the step above fails, check the back of your original key and your new key for the FCC ID.

• North American Mach-E fobs typically use 902 MHz.
• Some aftermarket fobs or fobs from older Ford models look identical but operate on 315 MHz.
• The Problem: The car can read the security chip of a 315 MHz key when it's sitting directly in the slot (using short-range induction), but the car's long-range antenna is tuned to 902 MHz, so it will never "hear" the buttons.

You should stop relying on crap AI information.

The fob will only work in the slot if it's programmed. Therefore, if it's the wrong frequency, you're dead in the water period.

Your statement "mostly a fan appears" means you don't understand the term "label". Mark Boris has posted a picture of the label, and where it is.

I suggest you follow the procedure IN THE MANUAL to properly program the 3rd fob. It doesn't need to be in the slot to work. But, if it works in the slot, but not outside the slot, then the reason is it has a dead battery... Did you check that?

 

[highland58]

My tuxmat floor liner goes up to the top edge of that panel, I would need to pull it out of the way. Thank you for explaining that!

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