E-Heat ... always on ???

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JohnFoxeSheets

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I don't know what the high set point is but the re-circulation is engaged when in very hot cabin temperatures (me in FL so don't know what is low set point).
I usually have my cabin temp set to 68-70 (mind you I'm in San Francisco where isn't usually cool to cold - today's high was 65). Recirculate turns off automatically within a few minutes of activation, every single time. Quite annoying.
 
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I usually have my cabin temp set to 68-70 (mind you I'm in San Francisco where isn't usually cool to cold - today's high was 65). Recirculate turns off automatically within a few minutes of activation, every single time. Quite annoying.
Well at least in my Mach-e' s windows don't fog up that easily. I read interesting story about auto designers that typically bias their designs based on their environmental familiarity, i.e. for years A/C in American cars were extremely cold and European car's A/C was anemic at best. Then to my surprise in my 2017 Mercedes GLA's A/C was strong - found out the compressor was a Japanese made Nippondenso !!! So this could be one of those designers who based on the standards what he was most personally familiar with.
 

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In the Owner's Manual emphasis is made not to engage e-Heat but to use heated seat at all times possible in order to maximize efficiency... so the actual system operation contradicts the Owner's Manual perspective.
I'm still not sure if the heater in my car works or not ?
It was a mild winter, so I never needed the heater. But I tried experimenting with it, putting the max temperature and I'm not sure if the air it's blowing is heated. It might be slightly warm but definitely not hot. Maybe I should wait longer before it starts blowing hot air. I don't know if it's expected or I should take my car to a service.
On the other hand the wheel and seat heaters work quickly, I can feel it.
 

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The re-circulation mode works fine for me, I noticed that in extreme hot condition it is activated ... I don't know this is true if in subfreezing temperatures. On my Lexus it is auto activated in very hot or very cold conditions.
Recirculation on my 2021 job 1 had always turned itself back off after 10 minutes or so. Lately, it stays where I set it. It seemed to start working after power up 2.7.2 or .3 - I got them on consecutive days.
Correlation does not necessarily equal causation.
 


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E-heat is used to dehumidify the air when the sensor detects too much humidity. Florida is pretty humid so that’s why it turns on, to prevent window fog.

Just because it’s on doesn’t mean it’s using a lot of power. I don’t even bother checking and leave it in AUTO all the time. I’m happy to let it do its thing even if it needs some E-heat for dehumidify. The battery is big enough that I don’t really care.

If you want the better recirc behavior have your dealer update the HVAC module.
 

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The re-circulation mode works fine for me, I noticed that in extreme hot condition it is activated ... I don't know this is true if in subfreezing temperatures. On my Lexus it is auto activated in very hot or very cold conditions.
This was a problem for some with MY21s... it would make most sense to use recalculation for super cold days when e-heat is running, however it would deactivate sometime between 5-10 minutes after being on. That really pissed me off because a) I would be driving down the road through chicken coop areas and no one needs that smell inside the car, and b) it's counterintuitive to bring in 20-30 degree cold air to heat, versus recirculating what's already heated...
 

JohnFoxeSheets

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Not on mine it doesn't! ?
So of course the day after I post this I drive south to an area in the mid-80s and the recirculate stayed on just fine. Hoping that somehow helps it to stick all the time! ?
 

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I use e-heat in 3 months of winter. Turned off spring summer & fall. I’ll occasionally manually turn it on for AC on super hot days (very rare) or sub 45 degree days, either for heat or window defrost. My long (22,000 commute miles) term average is 3.5 Mi/KWh because I manually control e-heat. Otherwise that number would be much lower if left to “auto”. Probably 3.0 Mi/KWh.
 

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The solution is wearing blue shaded sunglasses so you can’t tell the e-heat button is on. Don’t worry about the uncontrollable.
Just tried that and hit a couple of red cars. Any other ideas?
 

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E-heat is used to dehumidify the air when the sensor detects too much humidity. Florida is pretty humid so that’s why it turns on, to prevent window fog.

Just because it’s on doesn’t mean it’s using a lot of power. I don’t even bother checking and leave it in AUTO all the time. I’m happy to let it do its thing even if it needs some E-heat for dehumidify. The battery is big enough that I don’t really care.

If you want the better recirc behavior have your dealer update the HVAC module.
When I first got my Chevy Bolt I made sure to turn off the auto defrost feature because people on the message board all talked about how much energy it used.

When the first cool mornings arrived the windows fogged up all the time. As a result my wife despised driving the car in the mornings on her way to work. She often had to roll the windows down or keep a cloth in the car to wipe the inside of the windows while driving.

It took me a year to remember I had turned off that setting as we battled the stupid fogging windows. I finally remembered I had turned it off, turned it back on, and she loves the car. The windows never fog up.

In the early days of ownership we were so concerned about range and worried about it. Then we realized that we regularly only drive a fraction of the range available.

We can use whatever energy we want, set the car to iceberg in the summer or center of the earth in the winter. There is no point in suffering to save energy.

At this point I don't care if my average consumption is 4.1 Mi/KWh or .9 Mi/KWh.
Sponsored

 
 







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