Electrical burning smell in garage

[Scooby24]

In the case of the much maligned Leviton outlet, I used one for a year and then swapped it out. There were no issues with it but the Hubble is better.

The issues with the Leviton from my perspective are that it's harder to apply proper torque because it uses a screw head instead of a hex head, and the screw crushes the wires instead of using a v clamp.

The issue is that the Leviton is easier to do poorly and therefore more likely to have a problem... and being cheaper I'll bet they outsell Hubbel 10:1

If you also go feel your outlet when it's charging, it's vibrating....that screw is probably loosening over time due to A) being unable to apply enough torque and B) the design of the screw directly securing the wire.

So even if you do EVERYTHING right, using the shitty designed receptacle will still eventually run into problems (at least how I theorize it)

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[intensifi]

This thread is a great advertisement to go hardwired!

For those that say it is less convenient when you have to change the EVSE, not by much.

With hardwired: turn off breaker, open junction box, unscrew four blue gel filled 6 gauge wire nuts(or unscrew inline connectors) , pull old EVSE wires out, reverse process for new EVSE making sure wire nuts/connectors are centered in box, not touching box. Note: I use the big boxes for high current junctions for more air gap.

It’s not like you will change the EVSE that often!

I installed a 6 gauge circuit for my home generator. Yes it’s over provisioned as I do not like hot wires. The hardest part was attaching the wire to the industrial outlet. Unless you are going straight in to the outlet from the back you’ll have to deal with tremendous torque caused by the bending 6 gauge wire when connecting to the outlet. It also means each wire will have to be cut to a different length to minimize wire torque when connecting to the outlet. It’s no fun and the potential for the wires to loosen over time is high.

Hardwired for me going forward!

 

[mylittlepony]

Thanks to all who contributed information regarding the receptacle replacements. I have had the Leviton installed and used for about 4 yrs now! I have had a 2018 Chevy bolt and 2021 VW ID.4 charging on this along with the current MME that is in the service center for the HVBJB replacement. We currently have the Lightning and when the Sunrun team came out to install the Ford charge station pro, I had them look at the clipper creek plug in the garage because I noticed some red on the plug. They told me that some of the wiring was loose and they would tighten them. No mention that the receptacle should be replaced because I guess they did not see any damage to it as of yet. These posts have assured me that I will be ordering the Hubbell today! Thanks

 

[robbinbadams]

You definitely need to replace the wall plug. That thing is toast

 

[Tyldum]

In Norway where EVs has been popular for a longer time, the electrical code has significantly been tightened over the years.
Charging via plug was first OK, then reduced to a dedicated circuit, then the circuit got reduced to 10A (230V) and now it's banned for regular use.
You can charge up to 8A (230V) over a socket if you are visiting and similar, but you are required to monitor heat. The 8A limit is now on the portable EVSE (the Ford one adjusts based on the kind of pigtail you connect to it).

The only legal home charging today here is with hardwired EVSE on a dedicated circuit with additional overvolt protection. Then you can do 16A (3 phase 230V) or 32A (single phase 230V).

Of course these are different electrical architectures, with different sockets, but it is a real hazard if it goes wrong.

Also, as others have mentioned, something rated for 50A, isn't necessarily rated for that over the course of hours. Around here the rule of thumb is 80% of the rated number s the absolute max for prolonged use.

 

[Fremont Kid]

Wander over to your breaker panel and see if the odor gets stronger. If you are drawing maximum amps from your ChargePoint Home Flex (assuming that is what you have) then it's possible the breaker might be arcing inside. When purchasing press on circuit breakers from local suppliers, we have found that it is wise to cycle the switch back and forth so it makes positive contact with the points inside. Installing those right off the shelf has caused a few issues from time to time.

Here is what happened to my panel. The breaker was still in the ON position AND the EVSE was powered up. I moved the switch to the off position and it had zero resistance.

I had to replace the guts inside the panel and of course a new breaker. I got lucky.

Circuit breaker should be 20% over capacity. I had a 240v 50A circuit installed to charge, even though at 240v it only pulls 42A (spec from memory). This can charge from 0 to 100% in 10 hours, or overnight. No need to rely on 120v which takes several days, and which places a huge stress load on the outlet, wire and circuit breaker, which all accumulate heat and leads to failure. Also, don't try to save a few dollars buying cheaper parts. Buy the best.

 

[clement.48]

I have a question, and instead of creating another thread I'll just hijack this. My electrician hardwired my chargepoint with 6/2 wire into a 70 amp breaker. Since chargepoint maxes out at 50 amps, we did the 70 amp breaker to future proof myself a little bit even though the mme only takes 48. Am I in any sort of danger by having the 70 amp breaker?

 

[cdiv]

Looking at the installation manual for the ChargePoint Home Flex, it shows 70 and 80 A breakers as being acceptable (with the charger set to 50A, lower amperage breakers are acceptable at lower settings).

 

[ATL]

I have a question, and instead of creating another thread I'll just hijack this. My electrician hardwired my chargepoint with 6/2 wire into a 70 amp breaker. Am I in any sort of danger by having the 70 amp breaker?

The breaker should be sized to protect the installed circuit, not the load. The load applied to the circuit should not exceed the circuit's capability. The electrical code that applies to your jurisdiction defines the exact rules. Typically the load should not exceed 80% of the conductor or breaker rating. That is the reason we say you need a 60 A breaker and circuit for a 48 A load like CPHF (when set up in it's software for a 60A breaker). If you set up for a bigger (70A) breaker, you will draw>48A. In the case of this particular EVSE, the extra 2A probably won't be a problem but technically might be a code violation if your code specifies 48A Max on #6 conductor. As long as this is the only load on a hardwired circuit, it will probably be ok.
Now you can see the probablys are starting to add up. What if something goes wrong and the EVSE draws more than it's rated current but not enough to trip the breaker. This could lead to overloading that #6, and cause a fire. That is the risk, and your electrician should be sure the breaker/conductor/installed load is all within code limitations. After all that... In my location,#6 Copper conductor should be protected by a 60A breaker. The extra 2A isn't worth the trouble. Besides I believe the CPHF terminals accept a maximum #6 wire size.
Hope this is helpful.

 

[ATL]

That’s why I always tighten and loosen to spec twice. First time smashes things down, second time you get your desired clamping force. Opinions on this vary, but doing it twice seems to keep it tight for longer.

Pro tip: Best way to tighten lugs on stranded conductors... Tighten, wiggle conductor in the lug as much as you can, then retorque. You'll be surprised just how much farther you can tighten the screw.

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