Frunk Tub Removed [Pics]

[UW2]

Here's a picture of a GT vs your GTPE. Anyone spot any differences? I wouldn't expect any...just curious.

Looks like snakes on a (pretend) plane

 

[whadenIV]

Looks like MF snakes on a (MF pretend) MF plane

Fixed it for you.

 

[SyNRG]

Fixed it for you.

 

[MaineSailor]

I was doing a little planning for my addition of battery jump points in the frunk so I had to remove my frunk tub today. Necked Mach-E! ??

Oh noticed that there was this odd flag of masking tape on one of the hoses too. ?‍?

Sooooo many hoses - so little time!

 

[MellowJohnny]

I was doing a little planning for my addition of battery jump points in the frunk so I had to remove my frunk tub today. Necked Mach-E! ??

Stupid Question #1: To be able to boost a dead battery?
Stupid Question #2: If the answer to the above is Yes, why doesn't Ford expose the 12v?

I'm certainly not a mechanic, but it kinda makes me uneasy when Ford gives us access to just the washer fluid reservoir. I guess the assumption is "bring it in" for everything else...

 

[HuntingPudel]

Stupid Question #1: To be able to boost a dead battery?
Stupid Question #2: If the answer to the above is Yes, why doesn't Ford expose the 12v?

I'm certainly not a mechanic, but it kinda makes me uneasy when Ford gives us access to just the washer fluid reservoir. I guess the assumption is "bring it in" for everything else...

Answer to #1: Yes, to be able to apply 12V to the car in case the battery is hosed. Alternatively, to be able to charge the 12V battery without removing the beauty panels. ??

Answer to #2: ?‍?

 

[miata]

Another question for the tech folks...

What charge rate did Ford intend for the main vehicle pack to top off that 12V battery ?
A lot of folks act like any size inverter can be connected to it while I suspect there is a limit.

Ford designs for a lot of current to be dumped into the motors driving the wheels. Not sure they intended to deliver a lot of current to that 12v battery.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I'll be doing something similar when I have time in the next few weeks. I want to put in D-rings, and probably #2welding wire with an Anderson connector for a more 'solid' connection for Energy export to a little Inverter.

I'd be very interested in hearing/seeing your opinion on how many amps the 12v + and the dc-dc converter is designed to support.

Also, if you trace down the battery tray cooling inlet hose.... maybe you can Borg in a 'super-chiller' for extending full power ?! A little heat-pump chiller, or ice-bath heat exchanger ?! I would love to see if chilling that inlet temp would extend full power output for a couple more seconds!

I'm not planning anything nearly as ambitious, amperage-wise. The access panel I purchased is fully capable of passing enough current to jump-start start a 500+ cubic inch motor. I'm going to be using much smaller wire because I'm only intending to use the access panel as a charging point, so I'm using 10AWG wire. ??

 

[Mach-Lee]

Another question for the tech folks...

What charge rate did Ford intend for the main vehicle pack to top off that 12V battery ?
A lot of folks act like any size inverter can be connected to it while I suspect there is a limit.

Ford designs for a lot of current to be dumped into the motors driving the wheels. Not sure they intended to deliver a lot of current to that 12v battery.

The DC/DC converter for the 12V battery has a maximum output of 160A. In reality, if you had everything on the car running the loads would be less than 100A. Same thing with battery charging, it starts in the ~60A department but rapidly declines as the battery takes the charge.

Based on the maximum output of the DC/DC converter, 20A base load to run the car, inverter inefficiencies and overloads, I recommend the maximum continuous inverter load/output should be kept below about 1250W. This gives some room for surges/overloads without exceeding 160A and causing the battery voltage to drop. I would recommend using an inverter in the 1000-1500W range, which is what most vehicles can safely handle. If someone installs a larger inverter (such as 2000W) it's their responsibility to monitor the loads so they don't exceed 1250W for long. I'd also recommend monitoring the charging system voltage for dips below 13.3V, if that happens some loads should be removed.

This is an assembled product designed for use with vehicles: https://www.cargenerator.com/collections/all/products/cargenerator-all-weather-1500w

 

[dtbaker61]

Another question for the tech folks...

What charge rate did Ford intend for the main vehicle pack to top off that 12V battery ?
A lot of folks act like any size inverter can be connected to it while I suspect there is a limit.

Ford designs for a lot of current to be dumped into the motors driving the wheels. Not sure they intended to deliver a lot of current to that 12v battery.

best guess at this point is that the continuous load should be no more than 1500watts or thereabouts. This is enough to cover almost anything designed to run on a 15amp 'standard household outlet'.

If the load is an inductive motor like a circular saw or vacuum for instance however, the startup current required could easily be 2x or 3x that much for a few seconds... So if you are running power tools, you'd be best off with an inverter rated at 3000watts (6000 peak) so that the motor will start.

The good news is that *most homes* background loads are less than 1000 watts, and hopefully closer to 200 w if you turn off 'non-essentials' in an emergency situation.

 

[dtbaker61]

...snip...

This is an assembled product designed for use with vehicles: https://www.cargenerator.com/collections/all/products/cargenerator-all-weather-1500w

the CarGenerator 1500w pure-sine inverter has a MSRP of $949.....

A stand-alone pure-sine Inverter with same specs can be had for under $200, only without the slick case. https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Display-Controller-Converter-10V-15V/dp/B01M3OACR5/ref=sr_1_11

 

[miata]

The DC/DC converter for the 12V battery has a maximum output of 160A. In reality, if you had everything on the car running the loads would be less than 100A. Same thing with battery charging, it starts in the ~60A department but rapidly declines as the battery takes the charge...

Thanks Lee. I'm surprised, but pleasantly surprised. Car generators and alternators were originally designed to deliver 10's of A, not so that people could run skill saws from 12Vdc-120Vac inverters, but because starter motors on flywheels of high-compression IC engines drew a lot of current and you wanted to charge the battery quickly so in case the next stop/start cycle was coming soon you wouldn't be caught with a weak battery. Now with high-intensity headlights, motor-driven PS, AC, etc, alternator outputs >150A are commonplace. Nice to see Ford is thinking in those terms even if base auxiliary power draws in an EV aren't quite at that level.

And running a (compressor-based) dorm fridge and laptop charger at a campsight is pretty cool. Or pulling up to a remote job sight and running a small table saw all without starting the car!

 

[miata]

A stand-alone pure-sine Inverter with same specs can be had for under $200...

Seems we need something better than just battery charger clips to repetitively use something like this. Anyone made a more permanent inverter installation?

Electric forklift charge connectors are a fairly inexpensive way to make/break 150+ amp connections with 2-4AWG wiring...

 

[dtbaker61]

Seems we need something better than just battery charger clips to repetitively use something like this. Anyone made a more permanent inverter installation?

Electric forklift charge connectors are a fairly inexpensive way to make/break 150+ amp connections with 2-4AWG wiring...

I will..... but haven't had time yet.

 

[Carsinmyblood]

There was a thread about adding access ports to the jump points that should have been there to begin with, particularly when the plastic cover already has a + and - molded into it in the exact locations where these ports should be.

These are not my images, and I'll try to find the original post but I did have the saved locally along with a stencil to guide the port placement. With that said though, there is no need to remove the frunk or even the panel to do this.

Edited:
Here is the link with stencil and details where I obtained the below pics for this mod:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/guide-better-jump-point-access-battery-access.10976/page-3

Hillman. I'm betting this cap can be found at Lowes.