Frunk Tub Removed [Pics]

[kennethjk]

Yeah, I am just using it to charge the 12V battery. The only problem with having it under the frunk lid is that if the 12V is dead you still need to jump the leads in the front bumper with a 12V source in order to open the frunk. I couldn’t think of a safe place to put this jump box that was externally accessible unless it was under the car and I did not like that. ?‍?

What you did is great. personally, keep the frunk manual Like most hoods are. My 911 I can stand at the frunk and touch the hood with my key in the pocket and it pops open or I can lift a switch in the car if the battery is dead. That I like.

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[dtbaker61]

What if you don’t have a 12V jump box and just have a battery tender that helps recharge the battery. And even if I find one, I then have to take the cover off . Nuts.
if the cover coves off easily I suppose that’s ok but from what I read it’s a bit of an effort. Maybe I am wrong but the mods shown by people are well done and should have been done by Ford.

indeed....

the whole right side beauty cover should have 'quick' latch or hinge or pop out cover to gain access to 12v connection points, fusebox, AND HV DISCONNECT for Emergency Responders.

I consider it a HUGE oversight not to have a 'cut loop', or mechanical pull disconnect to the HV for Responders that need to put out a fire, or cut the body for extraction after a crash. I would be nervous as hell firing up the 'jaws of life' and cutting into the door frame(s) or fender/firewall not knowing where the HV cabling runs and not knowing the HV battery was for sure isolated.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I can't believe that I haven't posted the source for my access point:

https://www.eddiemotorsports.com/product-p/ms302-31bk.htm

 

[BilLongua]

I can't believe that I haven't posted the source for my access point:

https://www.eddiemotorsports.com/product-p/ms302-31bk.htm

This is great, thank you. And I agree, a different spot would be better. Are there any limitations that kept it where you put it if it’s closed? I’m thinking that putting it inside the tub on the wall may be a cleaner spot and not interfere with the hood, but I don’t know if there’s more stuff inside that can get damaged or in the way (haven’t taken mine apart yet).

 

[BilLongua]

In my shopping, I found these as well, which if they fit height wise, would be a clean and simple installation as well, all for $20:



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1430

 

[Glen]

In my shopping, I found these as well, which if they fit height wise, would be a clean and simple installation as well, all for $20:



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1430

Height is the key on those. Looks like you could trim that cover/cap down a bit..maybe??? I like that idea to. Nice find. ?

 

[BilLongua]

The DC/DC converter for the 12V battery has a maximum output of 160A. In reality, if you had everything on the car running the loads would be less than 100A. Same thing with battery charging, it starts in the ~60A department but rapidly declines as the battery takes the charge.

Based on the maximum output of the DC/DC converter, 20A base load to run the car, inverter inefficiencies and overloads, I recommend the maximum continuous inverter load/output should be kept below about 1250W. This gives some room for surges/overloads without exceeding 160A and causing the battery voltage to drop. I would recommend using an inverter in the 1000-1500W range, which is what most vehicles can safely handle. If someone installs a larger inverter (such as 2000W) it's their responsibility to monitor the loads so they don't exceed 1250W for long. I'd also recommend monitoring the charging system voltage for dips below 13.3V, if that happens some loads should be removed.

This is an assembled product designed for use with vehicles: https://www.cargenerator.com/collections/all/products/cargenerator-all-weather-1500w

If all you want to do is power the 12V to get the car going again, would one of those portable lithium ion units do the trick? I’m thinking it’s a lot less load than if you are trying to start an ICE car, no? Something like this:

https://www.qvc.com/HALO-Bolt-ACDC-Jump-Starter,-PortableCharger-&-AC-Outlet.product.E241474.html

 

[BilLongua]

Height is the key on those. Looks like you could trim that cover/cap down a bit..maybe??? I like that idea to. Nice find. ?

Thx. I was also thinking of putting them in the tub sidewall, so they don’t stick up, but out. They are cheap enough to buy a set to play with and see what’s possible.

 

[HuntingPudel]

This is great, thank you. And I agree, a different spot would be better. Are there any limitations that kept it where you put it if it’s closed? I’m thinking that putting it inside the tub on the wall may be a cleaner spot and not interfere with the hood, but I don’t know if there’s more stuff inside that can get damaged or in the way (haven’t taken mine apart yet).

I was trying to maximize the amount of space under where the access point was so that I would have room for wiring termination points, etc. so that nothing chafes or shorts and I am still able to remove the beauty panel. Turns out that I could have moved it just a little without much impact to the underside. Whenever I recover from paying for my dog’s chemo I’ll buy another beauty panel and move the access point. ?‍?

In my shopping, I found these as well, which if they fit height wise, would be a clean and simple installation as well, all for $20:



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1430

These are what I originally had in mind but they put a pretty reasonable amount of force on their mounting area. Definitely would not mount to the injection molded plastic. ??

 

[dtbaker61]

If all you want to do is power the 12V to get the car going again, would one of those portable lithium ion units do the trick? I’m thinking it’s a lot less load than if you are trying to start an ICE car, no? Something like this:

https://www.qvc.com/HALO-Bolt-ACDC-Jump-Starter,-PortableCharger-&-AC-Outlet.product.E241474.html

this will not work well....
If the MME LVB is dead, you don't need cranking amps, but you DO need to add a fair amount of energy to get the LVB voltage up high enough where you can 'start' the MME and the HV can take over charging the LVB.

If you are going to 'jump' a dead MME LVB, you will have best results with a long slow charge, or at least 20 minutes connected to a running vehicle w jumper cables. The goal is to get .5kWhr or so into the LVB to bring the voltage up over 12.0

 

[BilLongua]

this will not work well....
If the MME LVB is dead, you don't need cranking amps, but you DO need to add a fair amount of energy to get the LVB voltage up high enough where you can 'start' the MME and the HV can take over charging the LVB.

If you are going to 'jump' a dead MME LVB, you will have best results with a long slow charge, or at least 20 minutes connected to a running vehicle w jumper cables. The goal is to get .5kWhr or so into the LVB to bring the voltage up over 12.0

Thank you. Saves me $100!!

 

[BilLongua]

I was trying to maximize the amount of space under where the access point was so that I would have room for wiring termination points, etc. so that nothing chafes or shorts and I am still able to remove the beauty panel. Turns out that I could have moved it just a little without much impact to the underside. Whenever I recover from paying for my dog’s chemo I’ll buy another beauty panel and move the access point. ?‍?



These are what I originally had in mind but they put a pretty reasonable amount of force on their mounting area. Definitely would not mount to the injection molded plastic. ??

Makes total sense. I haven’t played with the panels to see how flimsy they are. I like the metal enclosures they make for yours too, but $175 for a hidden panel seems a bit excessive. But so is a 400 HP electric orange station wagon, so maybe I’ll go for the bright red one.

 

[dtbaker61]

Makes total sense. I haven’t played with the panels to see how flimsy they are. I like the metal enclosures they make for yours too, but $175 for a hidden panel seems a bit excessive. But so is a 400 HP electric orange station wagon, so maybe I’ll go for the bright red one.

2" hole saw, 5minutes work, and $2 for plastic caps give you easy access for jumpers.

 

[BilLongua]

2" hole saw, 5minutes work, and $2 for plastic caps give you easy access for jumpers.

It’s a clean solution. I’m not sure that’s the way I want to go yet, but probably will.

 

[krazieboy]

I can't believe that I haven't posted the source for my access point:

https://www.eddiemotorsports.com/product-p/ms302-31bk.htm

Does it come with the cable to connect to the LVB? if not, what guage cable is recommended?

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