[Guide] Better Jump Point Access (Battery Access)

[DevSecOps]

Nope. Those leads actually don't provide power to the car, so you can't open the door to get to the lever. When you apply 12v to the leads, the frunk will pop open (if your LVB is dead). Then you have to hook the jump box to the battery leads under the hood to get power to the car to open the door. The whole thing is rather silly.

Hmmm that seems like a risky proposition. I don't think I'll be putting anything valuable in the frunk.

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[generaltso]

Hmmm that seems like a risky proposition. I don't think I'll be putting anything valuable in the frunk.

Just make sure your 12v battery never dies, and you won't have to worry about it

 

[louibluey]

I would think it would just provide the power, the frunk would still have to be opened via the lever.

Todd, I was very interested in the alternate frunk open system back when there were some common problems with discharged 12V LVB's. Ford solved the LVB problem relatively quickly, and since then there have been few if any needing to do the bumper access 12V "jump" to open the frunk.

FWIW, here are the details for those wanting to know more about the front bumper access, with pictures of motorized screw latch release mechanism.

Frunk Bumper Release 9V battery does not work, 12V works
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ease-9v-battery-does-not-work-12v-works.4774/
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ery-does-not-work-12v-works.4774/#post-141023

Battery for Frunk Release to store in bumper
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...se-to-store-in-bumper.4443/page-6#post-137458

Indiana Jones and the Emergency Frunk Release
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/indiana-jones-and-the-emergency-frunk-release.4630/

 

[dtbaker61]

Nice mod! Was curious if a 2 inch diameter is enough to fit most jumper cable connectors?

yes, 2" works... and it is pretty easy to find 2" plugs that snap right in.
https://www.macheforum.com/site/attachments/20210623-testing-w-frunk-teapot-jpg.31066/

 

[Mach-Lee]

1000% agree and I was thinking the exact same thing. NOW ... in the bumper there's the battery leads. I just have no confirmation that these will work in the same way that the jump points work for the purpose of performing updates and preventing the car from sleeping. You would think that if Ford wanted that to be more obvious about that, they would have done this differently

I think this has been covered, but the red jump lead is not connected to battery +, it goes to the frunk release relay so it can't be used to power the vehicle. Additionally both leads have 20A fuses, so you'd be limited to about 10-15A even if you could.

Also I don't think Ford forgot the holes, they put the + and - there to inform technicians the battery jump locations are below the cover. Adding the holes just makes it way more convenient. It's clear the engineers thought using the jump points would be extremely rare (like once a decade) since the car should maintain the 12V battery and software updates would come via OTA. Guess they didn't figure the software would be so bad you'd need monthly access for flashing yourself...

I think I will put a 45A Powerpole connector under the headlight adjuster cover on my car for charging and flashing use.

 

[chrisGT]

This is very neat and useful.
You can charge Mach-e owners to do the same thing for their car. I would pay for it.

 

[DevSecOps]

This is very neat and useful.
You can charge Mach-e owners to do the same thing for their car. I would pay for it.

Well you gotta be within an hour and a half of me ?. I wouldn't have the heart to charge anyone.

 

[Texas-E]

I just drilled my holes, and hopefully, the full covers don't come off for a long time!

 

[Texas-E]

I don't know if this will help anyone, but I thought I'd make a template that references the positive and negative indicators on the cover as locators. Standard disclaimer- use it at your own risk.

The PDF template needs to be printed with no margins and 100% scale. Print it and cut the + and - reference points out first. Fit it on your access panel and make sure that the top-line on the template aligns with the top cover and both holes locate correctly. You can then mark your center holes for the cut-outs and use a 2 1/2" hole saw with these covers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For some reason, the PDF is clipping just a bit of the bottom cut-out circle, but it matches up with my original Word template and the actual cut-out (I can't upload the Word document, or I would).

My advice is that after you've located your access holes, trace the outline with a pencil to make sure it is in a good location for you. I don't recommend that you drill the holes with the panel installed on the car. I bent the retaining tabs on my Hillman covers a bit so they are easier to take out. I also bought an inexpensive deburring tool that cleans the edges up nicely - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JGVDRQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the most difficult part is deciding where to place your access holes, so hopefully, this helps someone out.

Edit- Added center point template. Again, use it at your own risk. I turned my hole saw upside down and traced the outline in pencil to find my original positioning. You can also put a pencil down the arbor hole and mark the center too.

 

[Duchess]

I don't know if this will help anyone, but I thought I'd make a template that references the positive and negative indicators on the cover as locators. Standard disclaimer- use it at your own risk.

The PDF template needs to be printed with no margins and 100% scale. Print it and cut the + and - reference points out first. Fit it on your access panel and make sure that the top-line on the template aligns with the top cover and both holes locate correctly. You can then mark your center holes for the cut-outs and use a 2 1/2" hole saw with these covers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For some reason, the PDF is clipping just a bit of the bottom cut-out circle, but it matches up with my original Word template and the actual cut-out (I can't upload the Word document, or I would).

My advice is that after you've located your access holes, trace the outline with a pencil to make sure it is in a good location for you. I don't recommend that you drill the holes with the panel installed on the car. I bent the retaining tabs on my Hillman covers a bit so they are easier to take out. I also bought an inexpensive deburring tool that cleans the edges up nicely - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JGVDRQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the most difficult part is deciding where to place your access holes, so hopefully, this helps someone out.

fabulous! lol now i gotta find someone near me who can do this. I dont own any tools.

 

[dtbaker61]

fabulous! lol now i gotta find someone near me who can do this. I dont own any tools.

EVERYBODY should have at least a cordless drill, and some various bits ! Just think of all the simple home repairs, furniture assembly, picture hanging, and now auto modification you could do!

.... a 2" hole saw will cost ya about $10

 

[Mach-Lee]

I don't know if this will help anyone, but I thought I'd make a template that references the positive and negative indicators on the cover as locators. Standard disclaimer- use it at your own risk.

The PDF template needs to be printed with no margins and 100% scale. Print it and cut the + and - reference points out first. Fit it on your access panel and make sure that the top-line on the template aligns with the top cover and both holes locate correctly. You can then mark your center holes for the cut-outs and use a 2 1/2" hole saw with these covers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For some reason, the PDF is clipping just a bit of the bottom cut-out circle, but it matches up with my original Word template and the actual cut-out (I can't upload the Word document, or I would).

My advice is that after you've located your access holes, trace the outline with a pencil to make sure it is in a good location for you. I don't recommend that you drill the holes with the panel installed on the car. I bent the retaining tabs on my Hillman covers a bit so they are easier to take out. I also bought an inexpensive deburring tool that cleans the edges up nicely - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JGVDRQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the most difficult part is deciding where to place your access holes, so hopefully, this helps someone out.

Thanks. Looks like you're created a run on 2 1/2" plugs since they are now on 2 month backorder!

Also, is it possible to add a center dot to your circles on the template so the pilot hole can easily be located?

 

[Lord Polymath]

Nope. Those leads actually don't provide power to the car, so you can't open the door to get to the lever. When you apply 12v to the leads, the frunk will pop open (if your LVB is dead). Then you have to hook the jump box to the battery leads under the hood to get power to the car to open the door. The whole thing is rather silly.

It really is. It would be better if the jump points were more accessible, like in this thread.

 

[Texas-E]

Thanks. Looks like you're created a run on 2 1/2" plugs since they are now on 2 month backorder!

Also, is it possible to add a center dot to your circles on the template so the pilot hole can easily be located?

I added an additional template with center points in my post.

 

[Chuck]

I added an additional template with center points in my post.

Thanks a bunch for this. I'll be using it today.

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