Great e-heat tip from YouTube (Nick Amstrong)

Chudsaviet

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Car isn't airtight. If it was, the blower wouldn't be able to work when it was not on recirculate, at all.
Well, I don't know exactly, but there could be simple flap valves to let air out but no in.
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sockmeister

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Well, I don't know exactly, but there could be simple flap valves to let air out but no in.
True, I actually wonder if such a thing exists, or if it just leaks out and the interior of the car is slightly pressurized.
 

nvabill

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Come on, what an invention!
Heating already warm air will give you warmer air, unbelievable!

Actually, keep in mind that CO2 will raise fast in a sealed vehicle, don't use recirculation for too long.
It is comical when people make these life changing discoveries that they never knew existed , priceless!
 


RMoore

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It is. But the difference is more obvious in the MME than in ICE cars because the power of the heat source is more limited.
Isn't this the source of the problem? Seems like the answer would be to somehow improve the heating (heat pump, as extensively discussed?) rather than keeping recirculate on, though that might be a solution in the interim, at the potential expense of windows fogging. I don't think I've needed to use recirculate while heating in our cars (ICE), only cooling, and even then I tend to leave our cars' settings on Auto and that seems to work well.
 

narmstrong79

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This video looks at the e-heat and does some testing with a laser thermometer. You can watch the video but my takeaway was that to get the hot air coming out he switched on the re-circulate button. This noticeably increased the temperature coming out the vent. Sometimes the heating is very weak and this is a good way of beefing it up. I haven't had a chance to test this out in the car yet.

Thanks for sharing ! I know that guy :)
 

generaltso

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Isn't this the source of the problem? Seems like the answer would be to somehow improve the heating (heat pump, as extensively discussed?) rather than keeping recirculate on
A heat pump doesn't improve heating, it improves efficiency. A bigger resistive heater would increase heating power, but at the expense of effiency. ICE cars don't have to deal with this tradeoff because they're already producing a tremendous amount of wasted heat.
 

narmstrong79

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RMoore

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A heat pump doesn't improve heating, it improves efficiency. A bigger resistive heater would increase heating power, but at the expense of effiency. ICE cars don't have to deal with this tradeoff because they're already producing a tremendous amount of wasted heat.
Ah ok. I didn't realize the heat pump didn't also increase the amount of heat supplied (the name threw me off I guess :) ). In winter I tend to like to drive without bundling up all that much since I typically am not outside much when I get to where I'm going. Maybe with a garage that tends to stay about 20 degrees warmer than outside on cold days, preconditioning, and mostly short drives, I'll be ok.
 

engnrng

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That is what happened to me last winter I would switch it on only to find the car resets it a short time later. I just gave up on it and use the seats more for adjustment. Guess the car is smarter than us and knows when our windshields are fogging up when we do not? It is happening you just do not see it ;)
My wife refuses to drive the Mach E now. Most of her commute is on the freeway, with the bad air and diesel trucks. Outside air temp is above 50 F and yet the car opens the outside vents after a couple of minutes, letting in stench and fumes. I tried Max Air button, but it goes into AUTO mode with the fan roaring, no way to set the temperature, just blasting frigid air into the cabin and consuming electrons like crazy. When I drive, and set the recirc on with e-heat to maintain 60F in the car, I can immediately tell when the car has opened the vents because the temperature plummets with cold outside air being drawn in faster than the system can heat it. What a messed up system. Requires me to take my attention off my driving to push the sequence of touches so that I can keep the temp where I want it while keeping fumes out. We don't have this problem with our other cars and the 2 or 3 times a year when the windshield starts to fog up (outside temps 30 degrees for example), there is a Defrost button - works great for the few seconds needed to clear. @Ford Team I don't need a dumb car programmer doing things that are distracting, dangerous, cancer-causing, etc! Has anyone figured out a hack to disable that nanny "feature"? I can turn off certain notifications, why can't I retain control of the RECIRC button? I am no longer enthusiastic about this otherwise great car!
 

engnrng

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Come on, what an invention!
Heating already warm air will give you warmer air, unbelievable!

Actually, keep in mind that CO2 will raise fast in a sealed vehicle, don't use recirculation for too long.
Any measurements to back up that claim, @Chudsaviet ? I have a meter that measures CO2 and I have seen values outside during the day of 400 to 500 ppm, inside our house it measures over 700 rising to over 800 ppm while cooking on our gas stove. 8 hour exposure standards cause concern at levels of 10,000 ppm. What do you think I will find if I take measurements inside a car after driving with outside vents closed for more than an hour? Less than 1,000 ppm. I get more physical symptoms breathing diesel exhaust on the freeway than I ever have in 50 years of driving with outside vents closed (easy to do if it is not a FORD). @Ford Motor Company - Please let me have control of my cabin environment!!!!
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