Home L2 Charging: 40A versus 48A

[RickMachE]

How would you set that up? Would you install 2 sockets off the same line, one for each juice box?

I would do it with both hard wired, but outlets works also.

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[dbsb3233]

How would you set that up? Would you install 2 sockets off the same line, one for each juice box?

There are also dual EVSEs (a single EVSE with two cords/handles that automatically allocate the load) if simply alternating days isn't good enough. The main consideration then is placement in the garage to reach both cars.

 

[generaltso]

I would do it with both hard wired, but outlets works also.

I don’t think you can have two outlets on one circuit by code.

 

[Maquis]

I don’t think you can have two outlets on one circuit by code.

The NEC does not allow multiple outlets on a circuit for EVSEs. But if you label the outlets “For cousin Eddie’s RV” it should pass inspection. ?

 

[Tngo23]

So reading through all the comments I guess any 40A EVSE is good enough to be used with the 14-50 outlet. Thanks folks!

Correct......You can use a 6-50 or 14-50 NEMA outlet plug with 50 Amp breaker @ the main panel......Chargers higher than 40amps requires 60 Amp breaker @ the main panel.
My Chargepoint just arrived today after 2.5 weeks because it's so popular.....Installed it in less than 15 minutes. Obviously I already had the 6-50 NEMA Plug ran from the main panel with 50 Amp Breaker. The App on my cell took another 25 minutes to add all personal info, etc......You can monitor thru your CP App or the Ford App.......


Nice looking unit.....

 

[dbsb3233]

There are also dual EVSEs (a single EVSE with two cords/handles that automatically allocate the load) if simply alternating days isn't good enough. The main consideration then is placement in the garage to reach both cars.

Probably the best priced one...

https://grizzl-e.com/product/usa/duo/grizzl-e-duo/

 

[RickMachE]

@Tngo23, while the ChargePoint may be popular, it is out of stock often, as is JuiceBox and others, due to supply chain issues. Not popularity.

 

[Tngo23]

@Tngo23, while the ChargePoint may be popular, it is out of stock often, as is JuiceBox and others, due to supply chain issues. Not popularity.

I am fairly sure it's popular for many reasons and Chargepoint, Juicebox, & WallBox were my top 3 choices and highly rated as many have used them with high praises....It's also out of stock bc many people want them over others......Supply & demand

Nevertheless, it's a matter of choice my friend.....

 

[RickMachE]

In normal times, they are all widely available. I had to have my JuiceBox made "custom" (replacement due to original having too short hose), they were getting 25 in.

 

[SnBGC]

Interesting. You're right. JuiceBox uses a junction box, ChargePoint doesn't. Glad I got a JuiceBox. If I move, turn off breaker (and mark it), open junction box, disconnect wires.

Exact same process for the CPHF. The "junction box" is inside the CPHF and very easily accessible.

 

[nitinkumar00]

I didn’t go hardwired cuz I didn’t want to be stuck leaving the charger behind if I ever move and went with Nema 14/50. I can charge to 40 amp max. But I normally go with 32 amps cuz don’t need it faster and less the better. I usually adjust it if I need to between 32-40.

 

[SnBGC]

I didn’t go hardwired cuz I didn’t want to be stuck leaving the charger behind if I ever move and went with Nema 14/50. I can’t charge to 40 amp max. But I normally go with 32 amps cuz don’t need it faster and less the better.

If you can unbolt the EVSE from the wall then you can disconnect the hardwire circuit. It really isn't that hard or dangerous. Turn off the breaker and lock out the panel door (temporarily is fine). Disconnect the wires, cap them with wire nuts and wrap them with electric tape and a note tag for the next user.

Leave a piece of tape over the switched OFF breaker so nobody energizes that circuit. If you want to be super safe then trace the circuit back to the nearest junction box and disconnect and cap those wires too.

There is some good tutorials on YouTube to help.

 

[JSeis]

I commute round trip 90 miles a day. My lash-up is the NEMA 14-50 on a 40 amp breaker with a 14’ run of 8 AWG copper. Before I swapped in the 40 amp, I was curious what the 30 amp would do and sure enough, the MME 32 amp charger eventually tripped it.

Our garage is on a separate metered 120 amp service. Enough to run the hot water tank, table saw, welder, unoccupied Apt upstairs but.. if that Apt. was occupied, I’d for sure be charging at proscribed times, with the hot water tank on a timer operating on a different schedule. Two EVs would be a challenge particularly if your running two 50 amp circuits and your all electric house service panel is rated for 200 amps. Three EVs would make life interesting. But then again I commute and charge daily (4.5 hours & typical 7 pm till 11:30 pm). If your schedule only allowed 3 hours of charging due to demand then I could see the justification for a higher capacity charger. Most homes are all electric here in SW Washington (no natural gas service and few homes on heating oil). I can see future home service panels rated at 300 amps to handle added EV loads.

 

[RickMachE]

If you can unbolt the EVSE from the wall then you can disconnect the hardwire circuit. It really isn't that hard or dangerous. Turn off the breaker and lock out the panel door (temporarily is fine). Disconnect the wires, cap them with wire nuts and wrap them with electric tape and a note tag for the next user.

Leave a piece of tape over the switched OFF breaker so nobody energizes that circuit. If you want to be super safe then trace the circuit back to the nearest junction box and disconnect and cap those wires too.

There is some good tutorials on YouTube to help.

I would much rather remove my EVSE, with the junction box closed. Breaker off, but if they turn it on there is no risk to anyone.

 

[ponEpwr]

Instead of choosing between a hard-wired charger at 48 amps or installing a 14-50 outlet that puts out a max of 40amps, I recommend you get both. That is what I had done. In my case, it only cost about $450 extra. That way 1) you are able to charge at 48 amps if and when needed (although to be honest, I have not found this to be necessary all that often) 2) If there is a problem with your hard-wired charger, you can still charge using the 14-50 outlet and your mobile charger (or you can quickly and easily install a 40-amp plug-in charger).

When I first got my Tesla, my Tesla Wall Connector had to be replaced (under warranty) but it still took 4 weeks from the time I contacted Tesla and the time my new Wall Connector was installed. During those 4 weeks, I had to make due with public level 2 chargers. It would have been very helpful to have a 14-50 outlet as a backup.

And don't forget to check with your local utility for any rebates. My local power company offers a $500 rebate but only for hard-wired chargers. So if the same is true for you, this could be a big deciding factor.

This is what I did. Might be a bit different but in my area the main service panel is in the basement so I ran a 100amp sub panel to my garage. From there 60 amp breaker, #6 thhn to the front of the garage in 3/4" EMT to a hardwired chargepoint. Then about 12" off the sub panel I put in a 14-50 outlet on a 50 amp breaker and used some of the extra #6 wire. I did all the wiring myself so it was under 50 dollars for the extra breaker, outlet and misc parts. I do have plenty of room in my new sub panel so it seemed like a no brainer to throw in the 14-50 outlet as a backup.

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