Home Level 2 Charger Issues

[jparduhn70]

Can the OP change the topic thread to Mach-E L2 Home Charger issues? I think that better explains our issue since I have been testing multiple chargers with my MME. I have made a lot of progress with minimal results but I think I figured out the issue is WITH THE CAR.

1). 240V Nema 1450 Outlet
+Been successfully charging my Tesla Model 3 for two years with no issues at all.
+On 2/25 trained EV Electrician has confirmed that the 240V outlet tests fine at the plug. It is on a 50-amp breaker and includes red/black hot and white netural (6 gauge cable) and a green ground with 10 gauge. Everything also tested perfect at the breaker panel. Again, I have had NO issue with other vehicles.

2). Tested both a Juice Box Pro 40 (previous gen) and the included Ford Mobile Charger with the NEMA 1450 adapter
+When connected to the car, within 2 seconds an audible click can be heard from the charger (especially on the Ford Mobile Charger and when it first connected to the car a very tiny red LED on Ford Mobile Charger with Blue LEDS is seen and after a split second it turns all blue).
+Charging Port on vehicle shows white LEDs ring lit up based on the charge level. After about 30 seconds, charge port LEDs turn off.
+With doors locked and car off, no charge is passing through the 240V (works fine for 110)
+Through the Sync infotainment sytem in the car and Ford Pass App, location is set to manual charge when plugged in.

Now, here is where it gets interesting. If I power on the car, it starts to charge with the 240V but only at less then 2 Amps and less then 1 (KW). If I stay in the car now, it keeps charging at this snail pass rate (which is an issue). However, once I exit the car, after a 15-30 seconds it drops back down to 0 currents. Same is true if I unplug and replug the charger when outside the car. It is like the MME internal charger is telling the chargers not to charge when given an L2 charge. I find it really hard to believe this is an issue with my electric. I am going to the dealer tomorrow but thinking there is an issue with the onboard charging. I believe it is a software issue versus a hardware issue but who knows!

Will do.

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[Brademcee]

Something tells me he's not worried about code. I think it was this part

" If it did not I would have strapped neutral to ground "

Based on what I am seeing, other then testing voltage in my case, everything with the outlet is fine. I also do not have a GFCI breaker and can tell you that both the Ford Mobile charger and the Juice Box Pro are not working. I think there is something to do with the car asking for power and communicating to the charges. I am going to take the car into the dealer and then also ask if I can take one of their demos home to try unless someone on this forum that owns a MME in Chicago wants to swing over to the Northwest suburbs to give my setup a try.

 

[available_username2]

Can the OP change the topic thread to Mach-E L2 Home Charger issues? I think that better explains our issue since I have been testing multiple chargers with my MME. I have made a lot of progress with minimal results but I think I figured out the issue is WITH THE CAR.

1). 240V Nema 1450 Outlet
+Been successfully charging my Tesla Model 3 for two years with no issues at all.
+On 2/25 trained EV Electrician has confirmed that the 240V outlet tests fine at the plug. It is on a 50-amp breaker and includes red/black hot and white netural (6 gauge cable) and a green ground with 10 gauge. Everything also tested perfect at the breaker panel. Again, I have had NO issue with other vehicles.

2). Tested both a Juice Box Pro 40 (previous gen) and the included Ford Mobile Charger with the NEMA 1450 adapter
+When connected to the car, within 2 seconds an audible click can be heard from the charger (especially on the Ford Mobile Charger and when it first connected to the car a very tiny red LED on Ford Mobile Charger with Blue LEDS is seen and after a split second it turns all blue).
+Charging Port on vehicle shows white LEDs ring lit up based on the charge level. After about 30 seconds, charge port LEDs turn off.
+With doors locked and car off, no charge is passing through the 240V (works fine for 110)
+Through the Sync infotainment sytem in the car and Ford Pass App, location is set to manual charge when plugged in.

Now, here is where it gets interesting. If I power on the car, it starts to charge with the 240V but only at less then 2 Amps and less then 1 (KW). If I stay in the car now, it keeps charging at this snail pass rate (which is an issue). However, once I exit the car, after a 15-30 seconds it drops back down to 0 currents. Same is true if I unplug and replug the charger when outside the car. It is like the MME internal charger is telling the chargers not to charge when given an L2 charge. I find it really hard to believe this is an issue with my electric. I am going to the dealer tomorrow but thinking there is an issue with the onboard charging. I believe it is a software issue versus a hardware issue but who knows!

If it's your car go test another public l2 charger, like a chargepoint or something

 

[jparduhn70]

Based on what I am seeing, other then testing voltage in my case, everything with the outlet is fine. I also do not have a GFCI breaker and can tell you that both the Ford Mobile charger and the Juice Box Pro are not working. I think there is something to do with the car asking for power and communicating to the charges. I am going to take the car into the dealer and then also ask if I can take one of their demos home to try unless someone on this forum that owns a MME in Chicago wants to swing over to the Northwest suburbs to give my setup a try.

I am in Aurora and am happy to work with you on this issue.

 

[Brademcee]

If it's your car go test another public l2 charger, like a chargepoint or something

I do know that the dealer was able to charge with their Ford L2 charger at the dealership but it’s hardwired (shouldn’t make a difference though). I may pick up a meter at Home Depot to compare the voltage coming out of the 240V at my house. I would also try the Ford Connected Charger but they are on back order. .

 

[Brademcee]

I am in Aurora and am happy to work with you on this issue.

Seriously, that would be great. Let me first try to get another demo vehicle from the dealer. I think they had a FCTP. I will PM you but totally appreciate your offer. To be an early adopter!

 

[bruceski88]

Actually, the Ford instructions for usage of the mobile charger with a 240V plug call for a GFCI breaker
https://www.ford.com/ntzlibs/conten...-sheet/Home_Install_Spec_Sheet_0831_FINAL.pdf

Interesting because the Grizzle charger says not to use a Gfci breaker as it is built in.

 

[janitorjim]

Interesting because the Grizzle charger says not to use a Gfci breaker as it is built in.

the ford hardwire charger does not need one a separate GFCI breaker but the 14-50 outlet for the ford mobile charger does

 

[janitorjim]

could you borrow a 240 V ford mobile connector from the dealer and try that? Maybe the one you have is bad

 

[Brademcee]

could you borrow a 240 V ford mobile connector from the dealer and try that? Maybe the one you have is bad

Doubt that is the issue. My juice Box Pro 40 which charged my Tesla doesn’t work either. Easiest thing is to try another MME and see if it doesn’t charge. That will determine if it’s specific to my vehicle or something that the MME doesn’t like with my electric. Just strange because my Tesla never had any issues. Hopefully the dealer will let me take one of their MME for the night.

 

[dbsb3233]

the ford hardwire charger does not need one a separate GFCI breaker but the 14-50 outlet for the ford mobile charger does

It's an unfortunate conflict in the standards. The Grizzl-E explicitly says not to use a GFCI breaker as it has it's own internal GFCI too. I'm surprised all EVSEs don't.

It still works to plug the Ford Mobile Charger into a non-GFCI circuit (I tested mine just yesterday), but the specs "recommend it" for additional protection.

 

[malba2366]

It's an unfortunate conflict in the standards. The Grizzl-E explicitly says not to use a GFCI breaker as it has it's own internal GFCI too. I'm surprised all EVSEs don't.

It still works to plug the Ford Mobile Charger into a non-GFCI circuit (I tested mine just yesterday), but the specs "recommend it" for additional protection.

These recommendations are based on building codes. All outlets outside the home or in an unfinished area (garage, basement etc) are supposed to be GFCI protected.

 

[dbsb3233]

These recommendations are based on building codes. All outlets outside the home or in an unfinished area (garage, basement etc) are supposed to be GFCI protected.

Unless intended for a dedicated, specific use that has it's own, then it's usually allowed.

 

[Maquis]

Unless intended for a dedicated, specific use that has it's own, then it's usually allowed.

As of the 2020 NEC, all receptacle outlets in a dwelling unit garage must be GFCI protected. Very few states have adopted 2020 so far - I can get a list if anyone is interested - or just Google it.

Prior to 2020, only 120V general purpose receptacle outlets required GFCI.

 

[dbsb3233]

As of the 2020 NEC, all receptacle outlets in a dwelling unit garage must be GFCI protected. Very few states have adopted 2020 so far - I can get a list if anyone is interested - or just Google it.

Prior to 2020, only 120V general purpose receptacle outlets required GFCI.

Looks like I made it in under the wire last year.

Are there any issues with plugging a device with it's own GFCI into a circuit with a GFCI breaker?

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