Jdapter and TeslaTap charging adapters?

[Jimrpa]

Will this work, are they backwards compatible?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HGQK323/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Wrong way. That’s for Tesla owners to steal electricity from us ?

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[generaltso]

Hey guys I'm really confused about the information in that thread and how things are supposed to work with charging - I made a new thread and was told to go look into an old thread (which I did but it's not helping me) and I'm still confused.

sooo according to Ford (https://www.ford.com/suvs/mach-e/):
The Mach-E (with AC charging) goes up to 10.5kW with 48 Amps capability.

Why do people say to buy the 50 Amps, 60 Amps, or 80 Amps Tesla taps? It seems it's a waste of money because the Mach-E won't benefit from anything above 48 Amps.

Also won't I risk frying my car if I go higher than 48 Amps? I am really worried about charging "outside" of the intended Ford use case.

I remember that Apple was always saying to stay clear of bootleg non-Apple cables when charging their phones and that it would damage the battery. Wouldn't that be the case here?

Can someone explain me this?

First, it's important to understand that an EVSE doesn't push electricity to your car. Your car pulls electricity from the EVSE. Your car is not going to pull more than it can handle, so there's no danger of frying your car by giving it too much power. When you plug it in, the car tells the EVSE how much current it can accept, and the EVSE gives it that much. If the EVSE can't supply as much as your car can take, it will give the car as much as it can.

You can't tell by looking at a Tesla Destination Charger how much power it can supply. It could be 30A or it could be 50A or something completely different. The danger comes in when you have a TeslaTap that's only rated for 40A. The car will ask for 48A, so if the Tesla charger can supply that, it will. Now you've overloaded the 40A TeslaTap, which will cause it to heat up, possible melt, and possibly catch fire. That's why if you get a TeslaTap to use with the MME, you need to make sure that it's at least 50A. Some will say that you should use the 80% rule if you're planning to leave it plugged in for many hours, which means it would be even safer to get a 60A TeslaTap (though you'd probably be fine with 50A).

Does that clear anything up or did I add to the confusion?

 

[Jimrpa]

I finally broke down and bought my TeslaTap today. I’m cheap, so I only got the 40A one. I figure I’m charging at 48A at home, and many of the stupid J-1772 L2 chargers floating around are only 6-7 kW anyway, so I should be fine with this. Besides, hopefully, over time, it will become less necessary ?

 

[dbsb3233]

Hey guys I'm really confused about the information in that thread and how things are supposed to work with charging - I made a new thread and was told to go look into an old thread (which I did but it's not helping me) and I'm still confused.

sooo according to Ford (https://www.ford.com/suvs/mach-e/):
The Mach-E (with AC charging) goes up to 10.5kW with 48 Amps capability.

Why do people say to buy the 50 Amps, 60 Amps, or 80 Amps Tesla taps? It seems it's a waste of money because the Mach-E won't benefit from anything above 48 Amps.

Also won't I risk frying my car if I go higher than 48 Amps? I am really worried about charging "outside" of the intended Ford use case.

I remember that Apple was always saying to stay clear of bootleg non-Apple cables when charging their phones and that it would damage the battery. Wouldn't that be the case here?

Can someone explain me this?

You're right that anything over 48A is overkill, since that's the most that the MME can draw. TeslaTaps (regular corded) come in 40A, 50A, and 80A. TeslaTap minis come in 40A and 60A. That's where some of the confusion is, because while 50A is enough for the MME max, if you want a mini you jump up to the 60A.

http://www.umc-j1772.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=17

And even then, the 40A will work in most cases, since most Tesla destination chargers are below that (often 32A). But in case you run into one that goes higher, it's nice to have.

The car will never draw more than 48A, even if the charger can deliver more.

 

[Jimrpa]

First, it's important to understand that an EVSE doesn't push electricity to your car. Your car pulls electricity from the EVSE. Your car is not going to pull more than it can handle, so there's no danger of frying your car by giving it too much power. When you plug it in, the car tells the EVSE how much current it can accept, and the EVSE gives it that much. If the EVSE can't supply as much as your car can take, it will give the car as much as it can.

You can't tell by looking at a Tesla Destination Charger how much power it can supply. It could be 30A or it could be 50A or something completely different. The danger comes in when you have a TeslaTap that's only rated for 40A. The car will ask for 48A, so if the Tesla charger can supply that, it will. Now you've overloaded the 40A TeslaTap, which will cause it to heat up, possible melt, and possibly catch fire. That's why if you get a TeslaTap to use with the MME, you need to make sure that it's at least 50A. Some will say that you should use the 80% rule if you're planning to leave it plugged in for many hours, which means it would be even safer to get a 60A TeslaTap (though you'd probably be fine with 50A).

Does that clear anything up or did I add to the confusion?

Wait - I thought the teslatap had a current limiter in it?

 

[dbsb3233]

Wait - I thought the teslatap had a current limiter in it?

Not that I'm aware of.

Although FWIW, some that have talked with the TeslaTap people say that it's so over-engineered that the 40A should actually be able to handle way more than 40A anyway. Even though it's technically only rated for 40A.

 

[generaltso]

Wait - I thought the teslatap had a current limiter in it?

It does not. I recommend cancelling your order and getting one rated for at least 50A.

 

[gnaark]

First, it's important to understand that an EVSE doesn't push electricity to your car. Your car pulls electricity from the EVSE. Your car is not going to pull more than it can handle, so there's no danger of frying your car by giving it too much power. When you plug it in, the car tells the EVSE how much current it can accept, and the EVSE gives it that much. If the EVSE can't supply as much as your car can take, it will give the car as much as it can.

You can't tell by looking at a Tesla Destination Charger how much power it can supply. It could be 30A or it could be 50A or something completely different. The danger comes in when you have a TeslaTap that's only rated for 40A. The car will ask for 48A, so if the Tesla charger can supply that, it will. Now you've overloaded the 40A TeslaTap, which will cause it to heat up, possible melt, and possibly catch fire. That's why if you get a TeslaTap to use with the MME, you need to make sure that it's at least 50A. Some will say that you should use the 80% rule if you're planning to leave it plugged in for many hours, which means it would be even safer to get a 60A TeslaTap (though you'd probably be fine with 50A).

Does that clear anything up or did I add to the confusion?

Thank you that does clarify it.

Now what do we know about using a non standard charger? Could this damage the battery long term or void any warranty?

 

[generaltso]

Now what do we know about using a non standard charger? Could this damage the battery long term or void any warranty?

No. Tesla Destination Chargers use the same standard protocol as cars that take J1772 plugs. The car won’t know the difference.

 

[gnaark]

No. Tesla Destination Chargers use the same standard protocol as cars that take J1772 plugs. The car won’t know the difference.

Thank you

 

[Jimrpa]

Forum comes through again! Just switched to the 50A. 5 minute call. They were very nice and confirmed that the Mustang Mach E does indeed need the 50A adaptor. Thanks!

 

[MWJunior]

Forum comes through again! Just switched to the 50A. 5 minute call. They were very nice and confirmed that the Mustang Mach E does indeed need the 50A adaptor. Thanks!

Just to follow up on a question that wasn't answered: does anyone know if using an adapter could trigger a Ford warranty issue?
Thanks in advance!

 

[Jimrpa]

Just to follow up on a question that wasn't answered: does anyone know if using an adapter could trigger a Ford warranty issue?
Thanks in advance!

I do not know. I doubt it since it’s a level 2 adaptor. My understanding is that Tesla Level 2 and J-1772 are functionally identical. Tesla just has a different physical interface

 

[RickMachE]

Just to follow up on a question that wasn't answered: does anyone know if using an adapter could trigger a Ford warranty issue?
Thanks in advance!

No.

 

[mkhuffman]

Just to follow up on a question that wasn't answered: does anyone know if using an adapter could trigger a Ford warranty issue?
Thanks in advance!

I agree with Jim and Rick. I can see no viable reason why using an adapter to get a L2 charge could void the warranty.

However, if you get a cheap adapter and it melts into the car's charging port, the repair will not be covered by Ford. Which is common sense, but just putting it out there.

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