Trunk opened on its own and hit the garage door... Come on Ford!!!

[DevSecOps]

Todd, this forum will be poorer after you leave. I hope you enjoy the R1T. Did you order the max pack? I guess not because I don't think those are getting delivered yet.

Nah, I've been AFK for some time now and just grumpy when I post. Rivian order system is just a 1k deposit then when they are ready to build the vehicle they contact you to configure it.

I don't think I'll go max because I want the performance, which it's not an option on. It still gives 50 EPA miles range over the MME (~100 actual) and much faster charge times. My weekly commute from Sacramento to Monterey is about 20 miles short in the MME (winter only). The extra range will make me a much happier driver. Range is a huge issue for me and they have a 400 mile build but I don't want the boring version

From what I've seen their range numbers are accurate and lean conservative which is a stark difference from Ford. There's no way in hell I'm getting 275 in the GTPE. Best I've seen is about 225 on the freeway.

Anyway, I don't want to hijack this thread. When I get info on the trunk opening I'll continue to update here. They are still going through with replacement and hopefully I'll have positive news soon.

Sponsored

 

[skiingj]

Honestly, there's no update at all. The dealership has gone from bad to unresponsive and complete dog shit. Ford corporate can't even get them to respond. They've given multiple days of completion and the car is still sitting in the parking lot. I've put in a reservation for an R1T and will likely be parting ways with Ford.

Yikes. I will get rid of mine as well. Might get a i4 M50. What dealer is yours at? Mine is at Roseville.

 

[DevSecOps]

Yikes. I will get rid of mine as well. Might get a i4 M50. What dealer is yours at? Mine is at Roseville.

I looked at the BMWs and I really have some things that are must haves. This is my second EV and I'm at the point where 800v architecture is something of a must for me. I need something that can tow and I need something that gets over 300 miles in the winter. The BMW doesn't check any of those boxes. It has a slower 0-60 than the MME and 50 miles less range on a 400v platform.

I have the car at Elk Grove Ford, I originally tried to get it in at Folsom but it was almost a month wait. Elk Grove was only a 2 week wait. I would recommend that people stay as far away as possible from them.

 

[JohnFoxeSheets]

Twice in the year I've owned my Feb 22-build GT (on which I enabled KtO) has the lift gate opened on its own. Neither time I noticed it until my garage door got hung up on it (the button to open the garage door is near the door into the house at the opposite end of the garage and I can't really see the lift gate from that vantage point - plus it happens so rarely that I don't think about it). After the first occurrence I added more padding on the inside of the garage door (though miraculously the lift gate didn't get scratched or dented), and on the second occasion the lift gate was once again fine, though this time things were jammed enough that I needed to drive the car forward to get it unstuck (my wife held the lift gate so it wouldn't open into the door as I drove forward and to my relief once again the lift gate was unscathed). NorCal has had a (for us) very wet winter, but I can't recall if the first occurrence was in proximity to a rainy period. The second one was more recent and I guess its theoretically possible that it might have been damp inside the lift gate though I've seen no direct indications of this. I still have KtO enabled and will likely continue to since I do like the feature even though it's no better (for worse) than the same feature on my 2018 Volvo that this car replaced.

I have both Paak and Fob enabled and my living room is right above the garage. I can't say for sure that either signal makes it from the living room to the garage, but sometimes my Apple Watch will unlock my Mac Pro in my office next to the garage when I'm remote desktop connecting into it from upstairs., so RF signals are moving around the house surprisingly well...

And before anyone asks why I don't back into my garage, it's because if I did I wouldn't be able to exit the car without climbing into the passenger seat to do it, and I'm not 20 years old anymore...

 

[Mach-Lee]

Oooh, this just happened to me for the first time guys and it's interesting. It's a PAAK reflection!

So I was on the ground under front of the Mach-E working, and I had just opened the hood about 5-10 minutes prior (so the car was still awake). All of a sudden I hear the tailgate unlatch and open. Didn't hit my door because I'm parked far enough away. I'm literally looking under the car at the garage door and there was absolutely nothing moving anywhere back there when it happened, just me reaching under the front of the car.

I had a key fob placed on the driver's seat, and my iPhone 12 was sitting on my workbench directly in front of the car, no other fobs. I got up, went to the back of the car, kicked a couple times, and the liftgate then closed! I kept kicking and was able to get it to open and close again (had to kick about 30 times but it got it eventually). Again, no fob or phone on my person. Then without moving anything, I went back to my phone on the workbench and quit FordPass (this will kill PAAK the way I have it set up). Went back and kept kicking, no luck after 100 kicks. Then to confirm, I opened up FordPass again on my phone. Went back and it opened on the first kick. Couple more kicks and closed it.

Now how it's supposed to work is the liftgage will only open if it detects a fob or PAAK signal from the rear antenna after the kick. My phone was in directly in front of the car on the workbench, so clearly what's happening here is likely a signal reflection off the metal garage door makes the car think I'm standing back there.

As an additional test, I replaced my iPhone with my other key fob in the exact same spot. Went back and kicked a bunch of times, no luck.

But what triggered the first opening since there was no kick? I really don't think it could pick up my arms moving under the front of the car, but who knows. Most likely it's some kind of power-up glitch. One change I recently made was to enable welcome lighting, that may have somehow triggered it because it keeps waking up the car, so you other folks should comment on whether you also have welcome lighting turned on or off. I also have the very latest RFA and BCM software on my car FYI. Everything was dry. The car was doing it's ABS precharge clicking every few minutes while I was working on it, so clearly it was being woken up by signal changes as I moved around (phone was on the bench the whole time, but when you walk around that changes the signal pattern).

Rear bumper 25" from door.
iPhone placed on workbench 42" from front of car, slightly to the left of center.
Hood open.
Kick to open only functioned with FordPass open.

 

[DevSecOps]

Oooh, this just happened to me for the first time guys and it's interesting. It's a PAAK reflection!

So I was on the ground under front of the Mach-E working, and I had just opened the hood about 5-10 minutes prior (so the car was still awake). All of a sudden I hear the tailgate unlatch and open. Didn't hit my door because I'm parked far enough away. I'm literally looking under the car at the garage door and there was absolutely nothing moving anywhere back there when it happened, just me reaching under the front of the car.

I had a key fob placed on the driver's seat, and my iPhone 12 was sitting on my workbench directly in front of the car, no other fobs. I got up, went to the back of the car, kicked a couple times, and the liftgate then closed! I kept kicking and was able to get it to open and close again (had to kick about 30 times but it got it eventually). Again, no fob or phone on my person. Then without moving anything, I went back to my phone on the workbench and quit FordPass (this will kill PAAK the way I have it set up). Went back and kept kicking, no luck after 100 kicks. Then to confirm, I opened up FordPass again on my phone. Went back and it opened on the first kick. Couple more kicks and closed it.

Now how it's supposed to work is the liftgage will only open if it detects a fob or PAAK signal from the rear antenna after the kick. My phone was in directly in front of the car on the workbench, so clearly what's happening here is likely a signal reflection off the metal garage door makes the car think I'm standing back there.

As an additional test, I replaced my iPhone with my other key fob in the exact same spot. Went back and kicked a bunch of times, no luck.

But what triggered the first opening since there was no kick? I really don't think it could pick up my arms moving under the front of the car, but who knows. Most likely it's some kind of power-up glitch. One change I recently made was to enable welcome lighting, that may have somehow triggered it because it keeps waking up the car, so you other folks should comment on whether you also have welcome lighting turned on or off. I also have the very latest RFA and BCM software on my car FYI. Everything was dry. The car was doing it's ABS precharge clicking every few minutes while I was working on it, so clearly it was being woken up by signal changes as I moved around (phone was on the bench the whole time, but when you walk around that changes the signal pattern).

Rear bumper 25" from door.
iPhone placed on workbench 42" from front of car, slightly to the left of center.
Hood open.
Kick to open only functioned with FordPass open.

They think it's an internal component of the lift gate causing the issue. As we've started before, PaaK or a key fob has to be in range of the vehicle if it's locked, but not directly behind it. As long as it's in range or unlocked the failure of the internal component can cause it to open. I put a z wave door sensor on the lift gate and logged the openings along with lock status. For me, 90% of the time the vehicle was already unlocked.

On my car, the entire lift gate was removed and is being sent to corporate to replicate the issue. I know what they "think" is causing the issue and it's really unavoidable unless your car never gets wet. But, I'm not going to say what they think it is, because maybe they'll find something else.

I'm also not sure if replacing it will fix anything since I haven't got the car back.

 

[Mach-Lee]

They think it's an internal component of the lift gate causing the issue. As we've started before, PaaK or a key fob has to be in range of the vehicle if it's locked, but not directly behind it. As long as it's in range or unlocked the failure of the internal component can cause it to open. I put a z wave door sensor on the lift gate and logged the openings along with lock status. For me, 90% of the time the vehicle was already unlocked.

On my car, the entire lift gate was removed and is being sent to corporate to replicate the issue. I know what they "think" is causing the issue and it's really unavoidable unless your car never gets wet. But, I'm not going to say what they think it is, because maybe they'll find something else.

I'm also not sure if replacing it will fix anything since I haven't got the car back.

Well, I decided to do some exploratory surgery in the liftgate to see if I could find anything suspicious. I last washed the car a week ago and it's been dry since. No signs of water entering on the inside face of the liftgate, everything looks bone dry including the RGTM, all wires and connectors, the wiper motor, and the rear antenna.

Looking inside the bottom cavity of the liftgate there are signs of salt and prior water sitting in the very bottom, mostly around the license plate lamps and a little bit around the exterior opening switch:

No signs of water in the connector. I removed the switch to examine it further:

It is a completely waterproof design from both sides, the switch mechanism is protected by a gasket. There were absolutely zero signs of water inside. This is a simple "dumb" switch that is normally open and closes when pushed. Which leaves the other switch to close the gate:

This switch can be removed without disassembling the whole liftgate, just pry around the 4 edges of the insert:

This one I can see a circuit board inside. Not sure if it's a digital switch, but the circuit board is probably for the illumination.

The water seems to be getting in around the taillights based on the residue I can see. Coincidentally, the close switch lives right under a tailgate light opening (circled green). This is the view through the close switch insert opening:

So it's possible water could be dripping down onto this blue closing switch, but again I could not find any visible signs of water in or around my switch, connector, or wiring. Everything is bone dry. I did not take the switch apart further because that would destroy it, I put it back for now. It's possible there could be a tiny bit of corrosion on the circuit board inside (maybe due to living in a humid environment from nearby water leakage), but no signs of water getting directly into it that I could see.

I also inspected the latch carefully with a mirror, couldn't see any water signs there either.

So I'm still not sure why it opened. No smoking guns here. A small amount of leakage around the taillights is probably to be expected, the tailgate design can handle a little bit of water without issue.

 

[DevSecOps]

Well, I decided to do some exploratory surgery in the liftgate to see if I could find anything suspicious. I last washed the car a week ago and it's been dry since. No signs of water entering on the inside face of the liftgate, everything looks bone dry including the RGTM, all wires and connectors, the wiper motor, and the rear antenna.

Looking inside the bottom cavity of the liftgate there are signs of salt and prior water sitting in the very bottom, mostly around the license plate lamps and a little bit around the exterior opening switch:

No signs of water in the connector. I removed the switch to examine it further:

It is a completely waterproof design from both sides, the switch mechanism is protected by a gasket. There were absolutely zero signs of water inside. This is a simple "dumb" switch that is normally open and closes when pushed. Which leaves the other switch to close the gate:

This switch can be removed without disassembling the whole liftgate, just pry around the 4 edges of the insert:

This one I can see a circuit board inside. Not sure if it's a digital switch, but the circuit board is probably for the illumination.

The water seems to be getting in around the taillights based on the residue I can see. Coincidentally, the close switch lives right under a tailgate light opening (circled green). This is the view through the close switch insert opening:

So it's possible water could be dripping down onto this blue closing switch, but again I could not find any visible signs of water in or around my switch, connector, or wiring. Everything is bone dry. I did not take the switch apart further because that would destroy it, I put it back for now. It's possible there could be a tiny bit of corrosion on the circuit board inside (maybe due to living in a humid environment from nearby water leakage), but no signs of water getting directly into it that I could see.

I also inspected the latch carefully with a mirror, couldn't see any water signs there either.

So I'm still not sure why it opened. No smoking guns here. A small amount of leakage around the taillights is probably to be expected, the tailgate design can handle a little bit of water without issue.

Okay so,

1 - Go to sleep...
2 - I don't know the specifics as to what exactly they are looking at. I would assume if they felt it was just a switch they would have asked the dealer to just replace the switch. They are asking for my entire tail gate.

I probably won't hear anything back into their investigation as to why, but I'm hopeful that they can glean whatever data they need to help everyone else. If I do hear anything I'll let everyone know unless I'm sworn to secrecy.

 

[DevSecOps]

I have some bad news for you all. I got my car back but it's a complete mess now. So, if you decide to go the route of attempting to fix this be aware of the unintended side effects.

Prior to taking it to the dealership I had:

- Trunk opening on it's own

After 47 days at the dealership I now have:

- Water intrusion into the trunk assembly
- Water leaking from the electronics, handles, latch assembly, and lights
- Rear tail lamp assemblies that aren't attached properly
- Reverse Brake Assist faulting
- Screws loose inside the door assembly that slides up and down when it opens/closes
- Water puddling in the inside of the vehicle
- High speed vibration from the rear (could also be the motor that they pulled and put back?)
- Out of Pocket $1156.92 in rental car fees, plus $852 in gas.

But is the issue solved?

- I don't know, it's too early to tell. But man, I didn't think attempting fixing one thing would break 7 others.

Update: It didn't fix anything. I still have the issue of the hatch opening on it's own and I still have water intrusion. I would recommend against going this route.

Photos:

Repair Order / Rental:

Videos:

 

[scoopman]

I have some bad news for you all. I got my car back but it's a complete mess now. So, if you decide to go the route of attempting to fix this be aware of the unintended side effects.

Prior to taking it to the dealership I had:

- Trunk opening on it's own

After 47 days at the dealership I now have:

- Water intrusion into the trunk assembly
- Water leaking from the electronics, handles, latch assembly, and lights
- Rear tail lamp assemblies that aren't attached properly
- Reverse Brake Assist faulting
- Screws loose inside the door assembly that slides up and down when it opens/closes
- Water puddling in the inside of the vehicle
- High speed vibration from the rear (could also be the motor that they pulled and put back?)
- Out of Pocket $1156.92 in rental car fees, plus $852 in gas.

But is the issue solved?

- I don't know, it's too early to tell. But man, I didn't think attempting fixing one thing would break 7 others.

Photos:

Repair Order / Rental:

Videos:

This is really just sad all around.

 

[DevSecOps]

As a follow up...

Ford replaced all the components in my tailgate. I still have water intrusion into the interior after two attempted fixes and today the trunk opened on its own again. So, basically I'm back to status quo with a slew of additional problems.

 

[ARK]

As a follow up...

Ford replaced all the components in my tailgate. I still have water intrusion into the interior after two attempted fixes and today the trunk opened on its own again. So, basically I'm back to status quo with a slew of additional problems.

Sorry to see you will be leaving the Mach-E in a few months, though I can see why with issues like this. You must be one of the most helpful members on the forum with all your knowledge on fixes and troubleshooting and figuring stuff out.

I hope you still stick around after you get your R1T for some in-depth comparisons between Rivian and Ford.

 

[skiingj]

Update on my hatch opening:
I have it on video from last summer. I was told to take it to the dealer after opening a case with FMC. I hesitated because we all know what the dealer would say - They can't reproduce.

I waited until last month to have the glass warranty work done. After five weeks I got the car back broken with the door faults many are experiencing. FMC has sent the hatch case to legal as they say its normal. They are making a decision on whether to fix it or not. Seems to be a no brainer; its a known issue and on video

DevSecOps thanks for all you do. Crazy to think what you are going thru.

On the plus side. FMC customer service has been great. They paid for my monthly payment after a horrible experience at the dealer, next two services for free, and the dealer paid for the 20k service. Now I need to put foam on my garage door when I get back from this trip.

 

[RedStallion]

I have some bad news for you all. I got my car back but it's a complete mess now. So, if you decide to go the route of attempting to fix this be aware of the unintended side effects.

Prior to taking it to the dealership I had:

- Trunk opening on it's own

After 47 days at the dealership I now have:

- Water intrusion into the trunk assembly
- Water leaking from the electronics, handles, latch assembly, and lights
- Rear tail lamp assemblies that aren't attached properly
- Reverse Brake Assist faulting
- Screws loose inside the door assembly that slides up and down when it opens/closes
- Water puddling in the inside of the vehicle
- High speed vibration from the rear (could also be the motor that they pulled and put back?)
- Out of Pocket $1156.92 in rental car fees, plus $852 in gas.

But is the issue solved?

- I don't know, it's too early to tell. But man, I didn't think attempting fixing one thing would break 7 others.

Update: It didn't fix anything. I still have the issue of the hatch opening on it's own and I still have water intrusion. I would recommend against going this route.

Photos:

Repair Order / Rental:

Videos:

What a horror story. It's like going to a doctor with a runny nose and leaving with a heart attack.

My trunk opened only once on its own while I was walking my dogs in the park. Fortunately, never happened in the garage. I'm definitely not taking the car to the dealership, it's probably a universal problem, just not happening that frequently for most people.

 

[Scooby24]

What a horrible ordeal. It's amazing how sloppy some techs can be. How did you get stuck with the rental/gas fees?

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