Would you trade your frunk for a heat pump?

[HuntingPudel]

It can fit several dozen squeaky toys, not sure what else a pup would need!

Game to fill the barbecue with! Very food-driven here. ??

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[Lady Anne]

What are we looking at?
I mean I if course know exactly what it is.
I'm just asking for everyone else

It’s an oil/diesel fired heater.

 

[Ride_the_lightning]

But if I have to carry around both, then I’m carrying extra weight. This the heat-pump range gain is whittled away further. So I’m happy yo just stick with e-heat.

The car is already 5000 pounds. I don’t think the couple of pounds of resistive elements is having one bit of statistical impact on your range. This isn’t the Tour De France. 5 pounds matters on my road bike. On my 2 1/2 ton Mach E, not so much.

 

[Blue highway]

I’ve actually been surprised at how powerful the Mach-E’s a/c is. Before taking delivery, I thought it would be some efficiency unit that wouldn’t be particularly effective, but it was extremely potent throughout last summer at least around Los Angeles.

It was 110 F for a few days last summer here ( yeah Oregon ) I was pleasantly surprised that people the AC kept up nicely.

 

[Murse-In-Airy]

The car is already 5000 pounds. I don’t think the couple of pounds of resistive elements is having one bit of statistical impact on your range. This isn’t the Tour De France. 5 pounds matters on my road bike. On my 2 1/2 ton Mach E, not so much.

No. But who knows how much a heat pump and the plumbing would weigh. So if I have to have the resistive heat anyway, then the heat pump is redundant.

 

[Blue highway]

This is early days for modern EVs and they are not as efficient as they will be. To get from the 2-4 miles per KWH up to 5-6 miles per KWH will take lower weight, low drag aero, higher efficiency motors and heat pumps. Mostly because I can’t open the frunk remotely, I’d take the heat pump over the frunk.

 

[Blue highway]

Whether the heat pump quits working at +20° or -4°, the fact that it can quit working at all, when I most need heat, means I don’t want it. I’ll keep my frunk and electric space heater.
Too many people think the heat pump is going to solve all their range anxiety problems. But for my it would cause temperature anxiety problems.

Perhaps too many people fail to realize that heat pumps are commonly paired with resistive heat for times it’s too cold to output the BTUs required.

 

[Murse-In-Airy]

Perhaps too many people fail to realize that heat pumps are commonly paired with resistive heat for times it’s too cold to output the BTUs required.

Which is why I see no need for a heat pump if the resistive heat is doing well enough on the BTU front. If you’re after a heat pump for better efficiency, fine… until real winter hits and it freezes up. Then your back to resistive but carrying the weight of a frozen heat pump. I just don’t see that as a fair offset.

 

[Dylancch]

With it getting colder, the thermal requirements of Battery Electric Vehicles is evident in the reduction of range (real world range not GOM displayed range). This reduction is dependent on many factors in each individuals climate.

The benefits of heat pumps have been debated ad nauseam.

The merits of frunk storage have also been discussed at extreme lengths.

The question is: Would you trade your frunk for a heat pump?

Let the debate begin!

I'd rather have a diesel heater lol. In -40 the heating is terrible even in -30 it's inadequate

 

[TheCats]

I would think it would have both. Resistive heating elements are cheap and I would hope the heat pump would have resistive aux heat.

With flexible valving, such as Tesla's octovalve, a resistive heating element isn't needed. The electric motor is simply run less efficiently (the rotor is magnetically locked at 0 RPM) and heat is extracted from the motor cooling loop.

Apart from the relatively light valve array, a heat pump just uses a compressor very similar to an AC compressor. It's best done with a clean sheet design, but it's not inherently more expensive to manufacture than any other electrically driven compressor.

 

[Blue highway]

Which is why I see no need for a heat pump if the resistive heat is doing well enough on the BTU front. If you’re after a heat pump for better efficiency, fine… until real winter hits and it freezes up. Then your back to resistive but carrying the weight of a frozen heat pump. I just don’t see that as a fair offset.

The offset is that at 20f you get 2.x miles per kWh with no heat pump and at the same 20f you get 3.x miles per kWh with a heat pump. That’s why most every EV maker uses them now and in the next few years all of them will. It’s warm in the car either way but the cold weather range is quite a bit different.

 

[Murse-In-Airy]

The offset is that at 20f you get 2.x miles per kWh with no heat pump and at the same 20f you get 3.x miles per kWh with a heat pump. That’s why most every EV maker uses them now and in the next few years all of them will. It’s warm in the car either way but the cold weather range is quite a bit different.

We’ll OK. If my winter efficiency is going to go up by 50%, then I’ll take a heat pump for the times I could use it. But others have said the efficiency gain wasn’t that much. I guess we’ll have to wait and see which version Ford implements if they do.

 

[jdunc87]

weve used our frunk 1 time in almost 5k miles, and its because it was a cooler. It still has the same rear space we are used to. Give me a heat pump. I dont need space we didnt have before when driving an ICE vehicle. We didnt buy this thing for storage space.

 

[PonyWannabe]

Frunk all the way, considering I live in Southern California. No need to maintain battery temperature Here.

 

[dml105]

Frunk all the way, considering I live in Southern California. No need to maintain battery temperature Here.

I'd like the pro-heat pump people to chime in, because there seems to be confusion (including my own). You want the heat pump to heat the a) cabin, or b) battery?

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