machefan

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Anyone with the PL6100 PS can tell me why after a while the LCD display goes off? It appears to still be providing voltage but thought I would ask.
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machefan

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It seems to be a common issue. The general advice is to never run network scan or self-test. It does something that corrupts the data, especially when using cheap adapters (like you are not.. which is kind of strange).

I also tried to do a self-test after my first successful update, and I think it might have started to fail after that. Everything just locked up and it was never able to recover and get a successful network scan after that.

Looking at my logs from FDRS it might seem that the VIN check when connected to vehicle requires to do a full version check on all modules (aka network scan), and if it cannot read all of them it will just fail the VIN check. The solution to that is to not connect to the vehicle before selecting vehicle. Only problem is that it will not run the network scan, so it will not update the module versions, but it still works, and each update will update the module versions on its own, so unless modules are updated with Forscan it will work to just skip the network scan. Even if updating outside FDRS (like I had to with the CCM) it seems to be able to pick it up eventually if the network scan is repeated several times.

Just use Forscan for the self tests and fault code clearing, it work much better than FDRS.. and it will not report the audit logs to the mothership at the blue oval HQ. Keep in mind that Forscan will not complain if it cannot read all modules, it will just not show them, FDRS keeps track of which modules is supposed to be there, Forscan does not unless it is already stored in a profile, which is why it is so important to create and store a full Forscan profile before starting anything.
Good info, thank you!
 

louibluey

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Anyone with the PL6100 PS can tell me why after a while the LCD display goes off? It appears to still be providing voltage but thought I would ask.
I noticed last night, that my PL6100 numeric display went off (charge mode), the green charge bar was on, and the yellow bar was flashing (probably battery conditioning after fully "charged"), I meant to review the manual.
 

generaltso

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I noticed last night, that my PL6100 numeric display went off (charge mode), the green charge bar was on, and the yellow bar was flashing (probably battery conditioning after fully "charged"), I meant to review the manual.
That might be what @machefan is seeing. I've only ever used power supply mode, not charge mode.
 


louibluey

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That might be what @machefan is seeing. I've only ever used power supply mode, not charge mode.
If I'm just doing some preventative maintenance, I almost always just grab the little light weight PL2320, but I was trying that the double APIM reset to see if I magically could get hands free BC and reprogramming a couple of modules (no joy). Since the PL6100 was already set up, I though what the heck, and charged for a while. The PL6100 is a magnificent piece of equipment for what it is, but what a PITA to set it up each time.

Clore Automotive PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation Wow, it was $80 last year, inflation, I guess.
 

Neil4Real

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If I'm just doing some preventative maintenance, I almost always just grab the little light weight PL2320, but I was trying that the double APIM reset to see if I magically could get hands free BC and reprogramming a couple of modules (no joy). Since the PL6100 was already set up, I though what the heck, and charged for a while. The PL6100 is a magnificent piece of equipment for what it is, but what a PITA to set it up each time.

Clore Automotive PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation Wow, it was $80 last year, inflation, I guess.
I bought that and am hoping it'll be enough. I'm just winging it and haven't given it a shot yet... last time I risked it all and didn't use a power supply, I'm such a wanker.
 

Neil4Real

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Mine stays on.
What outlet would I plug the PL6100 into? I only have "normal" outlets that don't look like the 20A outlet required in my garage. I have a 14-50 for my EVSE. Is there a converter I can put on the 14-50 or something so I can plug this into it?
 

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What outlet would I plug the PL6100 into? I only have "normal" outlets that don't look like the 20A outlet required in my garage. I have a 14-50 for my EVSE. Is there a converter I can put on the 14-50 or something so I can plug this into it?
This works too

15 Amp Male to 20 Amp Female Plug Outlet 3 Prong Household T-Blade Adapter UL-Listed 120V https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MS9R...i_i_TTYDG40NFSX0KRCEF35M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Definitely can’t use the 14-50 outlet.
 

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ZuleMME

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Yep I bought a 14-50 to 5-20 adaptor as that’s technically acceptable while the 15a to 20a is not. But correct, you need a properly wired 14-50 to use it.
 

walla2

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Pondering whether to go ahead and go all-in to do some of my own updates on FDRS. Is there someone with a current license who can check my VIN so I know what I'm in for? (Will also help me decide whether its worth it for now). Let me know, will DM you if you're available. Thanks!
 

bshaw

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Pondering whether to go ahead and go all-in to do some of my own updates on FDRS. Is there someone with a current license who can check my VIN so I know what I'm in for? (Will also help me decide whether its worth it for now). Let me know, will DM you if you're available. Thanks!
I don’t have a current license, but if you have a job 1 car and know which OTA you are on, that will be a rough indicator. If you don’t have 2.3.1 or any of the 2.4.X series, it might be worth it to try FDRS. Particularly if you’ve had failed OTAs previously.
 

walla2

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I don’t have a current license, but if you have a job 1 car and know which OTA you are on, that will be a rough indicator. If you don’t have 2.3.1 or any of the 2.4.X series, it might be worth it to try FDRS. Particularly if you’ve had failed OTAs previously.
Yeah, I'm job 2, and just fidgety. This is a "BECAUSE NEW" thing, not an urgency. Thus the check to see what exactly might have an update available.
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