Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[markboris]

@markboris For those less ambitious of us, do you see any issue with just taping into the fuse box in the passenger footwell for a smaller subwoofer? I just picked up an openbox kicker HS8 that is only 150W. thanks for any insight you might have and thanks for all the great information you have provided so far in this long thread.

I would go with what Robert said above and try the 12V outlet in the trunk. The worst that can happen is you would blow that fuse and if you do, I would run a line from the battery and NOT tap into anything from the passenger footwell area.

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[SXBB]

After a bit of a wait due to back-order, I got my 10" Powerwedge+ installed a few days ago & I'm very happy with the overall sound now. Having a decent powered sub makes a HUGE difference!

Thanks Mark!

 

[MachEWVU]

For those with the select/rt,1 sound system, did you run the wire to the battery on the drivers side or passenger side? Also, did you tap into the rear door speaker wire?

 

[Mach-Jay]

For those with the select/rt,1 sound system, did you run the wire to the battery on the drivers side or passenger side? Also, did you tap into the rear door speaker wire?

I tapped the 12v in the back - 4 months and no issues. I was not able to find the left speaker wire on the driver's side so I am only running off of the right, but it works great. I got the 12" JL and it sounds amazing.

 

[uisynot]

If you are following this thread and DONT have a TW1 box yet, I just scored one from sonic electronix for 25% off!

Ill also let you know if this is an upgrade from my kicker CompRT. This sub was perfect for my Model 3, but doesn't quite hit as hard in the larger MME.

How did you manage the 25% off? Looking for one myself now. Thank you.

 

[Rpgonzalez]

How did you manage the 25% off? Looking for one myself now. Thank you.

It was awhile ago. Not sure how I lucked out on that one

 

[westPhilly mach]

This whole process is doable but daunting. what's the cat5 cable connected to in one of the pictures?

 

[DadzBoyz]

Interesting and thorough write up.
As others have said, a bit more than I would want to venture into.
A direct, amplified replacement for the factory “sub” that went in where the factory sub came out…. I’d be interested.

 

[markboris]

This whole process is doable but daunting. what's the cat5 cable connected to in one of the pictures?

It does take some time and most of it is running a dedicated 8 gauge cable from the LVB in the frunk area back to the cargo area. Depending on the sub amp you install, you may be able to use the 12 volt outlet in the cargo area if it doesn't require more than a 20 amp circuit. The JL Audio sub/amp I recommend and use (either the 10" or 12" model) require a 30 amp 12 volt feed. While you can use the 12 volt 20 amp circuit in the cargo area for that sub, if you turn up the volume to a decently loud level, you will blow the fuse. On this particular sub/amp, JL Audio recommends a MINIMUM of a 30 amp 12 volt circuit using 8 gauge wire. Most decent auto stereo installers would go one step up and run 6 gauge wire and a 40 amp fuse.

The remote level (volume) control cable plugs into the phone jack at the built in amp.

 

[mtbikemj]

@markboris I have some questions. Thank you so much for your post!

1. For the subwoofer line out that you used as the high level input on the JL amplifier, did you have to cut the stock wires?
2. How reversible is your installation?
3. Did you leave the stock subwoofer connected?

 

[markboris]

@markboris I have some questions. Thank you so much for your post!

1. For the subwoofer line out that you used as the high level input on the JL amplifier, did you have to cut the stock wires?
2. How reversible is your installation?
3. Did you leave the stock subwoofer connected?

Hi MJ,

1. You do not need to cut the wires. You can use wire taps.
2. Completely reversible.
3. I did not leave the stock sub connected.

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

Interesting and thorough write up.
As others have said, a bit more than I would want to venture into.
A direct, amplified replacement for the factory “sub” that went in where the factory sub came out…. I’d be interested.

A direct replacement amp would have to be able to take the digital signal from the head end unit. Right now, I am not aware of anyone who makes an amp that will do this conversion. You have to install a digital converter like the one from PAK before the amp. I plan to replace my amp once it goes on sale, so I have done the research. The PAK will connect to the factory speaker wires and the factor signal wire. However, any decent amplifier will need a larger diameter cable from the battery and not use the OEM power cable. I can only assume the OEM power cable is 12 gauge at most, more than likely less.

 

[markboris]

However, any decent amplifier will need a larger diameter cable from the battery and not use the OEM power cable. I can only assume the OEM power cable is 12 gauge at most, more than likely less.

The B&O amp (Ford calls it Audio DSP Module) has two power leads going to it. Both are 20ga wire and each are on a separate 20A fused circuit (grounds are also 20ga wire). Meanwhile, the auxiliary power point in the rear is also on a 20A circuit but it has a 14ga wire for both the power lead and ground.

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

The B&O amp (Ford calls it Audio DSP Module) has two power leads going to it. Both are 20ga wire and each are on a separate 20A fused circuit (grounds are also 20ga wire). Meanwhile, the auxiliary power point in the rear is also on a 20A circuit but it has a 14ga wire for both the power lead and ground.

Mark,

Thanks for getting the wire size. I looked at the average 75 watt amp, 4 channel or 6 channel, and they all indicate they need 4 gauge wire. The inline fuse size varies depending up the amplifier and the true RMS that it can deliver.

 

[markboris]

Mark,

Thanks for getting the wire size. I looked at the average 75 watt amp, 4 channel or 6 channel, and they all indicate they need 4 gauge wire. The inline fuse size varies depending up the amplifier and the true RMS that it can deliver.

The amp used in the JL Audio sub I'm using is their DCD Class D which as you know is much more efficient than other amp designs (A, B, AB, etc.). While they might not have the best sound, I feel Class D amps are just fine for a sub. I do however always use Class AB amps for all other channels in my car systems.

JL Audio recommends 8 gauge wire for this particular 400 watt RMS amp which has a 30 amp fuse. At that amperage, if you run a power line less than 16 feet, you can get away with a 10 gauge wire. My power wire length was around 15 feet but I still went with the recommended 8 gauge.

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