L2 charging speed recently dropped 33%

[Beard]

Guess I'll add myself to the list with everyone else having the same issue . Using me Grizzl-e @40amps. Always starts out at 8kw (displayed) like it used to before the update but after 5-10 minutes it starts dropping. (Before the update my hand calculated average charge rate was 8.9kw, I know FP clips the number.)

I can only monitor with FP but after studying it at several intervals, I've seen the app report charge rates of 4, 5, or 6kw displayed. Most of the time it fluctuates between 4kw and 8kw displayed. The best hand calculated charge rate I get is 5.5kw.

Is there any other way to data log charge rate if I'm just using a Grizzl-e?

Sponsored

 

[Shayne]

I am retired and have nothing else to do , LOL, plus at the Drs right now waiting for my wife to finish up and see if her Achilles is still attached, ouch

This seems (not her Achilles) to have started after an update- just wish every time I get an OTA I don’t have to fear something else breaking

most of the “breakage “ has been minor. I consider this one a bit worse because as you said the up and down can’t be good for the hardware

Not in a rush here too much anymore either few more years until retirement age but thought I would get an early start. We walk a lot and you need the right shoes. Buggered up my Achilles for months until a light went off. Changed the hiking boots and bingo. All the best.

I do not want to do dip switches but may have to.

 

[Shayne]

Guess I'll add myself to the list with everyone else having the same issue . Using me Grizzl-e @40amps. Always starts out at 8kw (displayed) like it used to before the update but after 5-10 minutes it starts dropping. (Before the update my hand calculated average charge rate was 8.9kw, I know FP clips the number.)

I can only monitor with FP but after studying it at several intervals, I've seen the app report charge rates of 4, 5, or 6kw displayed. Most of the time it fluctuates between 4kw and 8kw displayed. The best hand calculated charge rate I get is 5.5kw.

Is there any other way to data log charge rate if I'm just using a Grizzl-e?

I think it is safe to say ours is jumping around like @kennethjk is. Me too averaging around 5 6 KW into the car now. Pretty simple calculation. If it was steady it would be less concerning so we should go with that

 

[kennethjk]

Not in a rush here too much anymore either few more years until retirement age but thought I would get an early start. We walk a lot and you need the right shoes. Buggered up my Achilles for months until a light went off. Changed the hiking boots and bingo. All the best.

I do not want to do dip switches but may have to.

My wife wasn’t wearing good shoes when we were hiking but they did look good and we all know that’s what matters

One of the good features of the Juicebox is that you can change the amps from their App, easy to do , no need to fiddle around much, of course so I am on my third unit as the first 2 had their own problems and were replaced under warranty

 

[Shayne]

My wife wasn’t wearing good shoes when we were hiking but they did look good and we all know that’s what matters

One of the good features of the Juicebox is that you can change the amps from their App, easy to do , no need to fiddle around much, of course so I am on my third unit as the first 2 had their own problems and were replaced under warranty

Could be shoes are part of the problem. Worth a try?

On my first and has worked at 40 amp for 2.5 years. You have to open the box and move dip switch contacts on the grizzl-e. Came set at 40 and worked on the 50 amp breaker never touched it. Ford comes out and says it is hurting hardware I will open the box. Tech is great .......... when it is working.

 

[kdryden99]

So for those like me who are still questioning whether its hardware or software and at risk of repeating myself, if Ford decided that instead of 190 degrees, 180 degrees is the optimal charging temperature then that could be changed via update.
Now I'll assume the temp sensor is the switch type with a hardcoded temp. Once a thermal threshold is reached it turns on the cooling and it is supposed to turn on the cooling at 190, but the software is saying that 180 is overheating then there will be a code thrown and the car will begin throttling the charge. So this is a case where the software was updated and the temp sensor is now "malfunctioning" because it never gets to the point of turning on the cooling. This is the type of theoretical situation where the problem is due to the update but the sensor is defective because it is out of specificied working range.

Edit or there could be too much of error tolerance in the temp sensor that it falls out of spec

 

[kennethjk]

So for those like me who are still questioning whether its hardware or software and at risk of repeating myself, if Ford decided that instead of 190 degrees, 180 degrees is the optimal charging temperature then that could be changed via update.
Now I'll assume the temp sensor is the switch type with a hardcoded temp. Once a thermal threshold is reached it turns on the cooling and it is supposed to turn on the cooling at 190, but the software is saying that 180 is overheating then there will be a code thrown and the car will begin throttling the charge. So this is a case where the software was updated and the temp sensor is now "malfunctioning" because it never gets to the point of turning on the cooling. This is the type of theoretical situation where the problem is due to the update but the sensor is defective because it is out of specificied working range.

Edit or there could be too much of error tolerance in the temp sensor that it falls out of spec

In any event shouldn’t the cooling system go on? I guess not because it isn’t

 

[kdryden99]

In any event shouldn’t the cooling system go on? I guess not because isn’t

Again my scenario was hypothetical so its not necessary what is happening here, but it is a possible hypothesis from all the info gathered from the different threads

 

[azerik]

I'm lost why people having it drop from 48 or 40 amps to 32, set the EVSE to 32 and think it's solved, it's always dropping to 32, you're just removing the fact it ever was higher. Theres something software related going on with this. I'm thinking some of us might need to take a look at the SOBDM (Or whatever the on board charger module is) and see what version we're on and check against those not having the issue.
@Mach-Lee can you see that via VIN lookup?

 

[kennethjk]

95% of the time it is set to 32 but this issue still needs to be corrected

Hopefully ford is seeing this and comes up with a solution

when I first got the car there seemed to be a ton of noises when charging, I though to cool it

I haven’t heard anything the last few times

 

[azerik]

There's a pilot high/low on the Tesla WallConector that I can monitor what the car is requesting, sadly that's one of the only things I can't graph with the app, but I can look at it when it's doing it.

But if I'm remembering correctly I havn't seen the low change from about 6volts once charging.

 

[jeffMachE]

So far from the information gathered i really belueve that my first 2 hypothesis are correct but it leads to so many questions for example why only Job 1's? What changed between Job 1 and 2's? If this really is a temp issue then why is it affecting the car at 240v 40 and 48 amps and not L3 fast charging? Is it because of AC to DC transformer? I charged at a DCFC yesterday hit 80kwh no issue. I am happy the car can still charge at 40 amps even though it fluctuates, I'd be quite upset if we couldn't charge at home at all with 240v. Im just waiting for Ford to come out and say we have a problem so that i can have proof im not crazy (and to tell you all i told you so ?)

Not just Job 1's. I have a '21 Job 2 and I have this behavior with a JB Pro 40 set at 40 amps. Never saw this behavior before mid-May.

 

[kennethjk]

Maybe the company’s like JB and others have to update their software to be compatible with Ford after a Ford update

assume that is another possibility

 

[jeffMachE]

Maybe the company’s like JB and others have to update their software to be compatible with Ford after a Ford update

assume that is another possibility

I don't think this is the case. EVSE's are really pretty dumb. The car controls everything and the EVSE just supplies what the car asks for (up to the limit of what the EVSE can handle). The "smart" EVSE's that are referred to in this thread are only "smart" in the sense that they are connected to the internet and can report on what is happening (and maybe allow limits to be changed). But the EVSE, as far as the car is concerned, is just a dumb fuel pump with a current limit that the EVSE communicates to the car.

 

[jgcom]

I'm lost why people having it drop from 48 or 40 amps to 32, set the EVSE to 32 and think it's solved, it's always dropping to 32, you're just removing the fact it ever was higher. Theres something software related going on with this. I'm thinking some of us might need to take a look at the SOBDM (Or whatever the on board charger module is) and see what version we're on and check against those not having the issue.
@Mach-Lee can you see that via VIN lookup?

I don't think the problem is solved. I set my home charge rate to 32 A because I doubt that my dealer can solve the problem until clear instructions are determined by Ford; I don't even see the point talking to the dealer about it, given that they seem to have given up on a couple of other issues.

Charge-rate cycling to reduce heat is probably OK, but the resulting thermal cycling can't help but introduce small periodic mechanical stresses. I choose to not to do that.

Sponsored