Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[markboris]

If we don’t care about the roll off above volume 14 (I never listen above that and could adjust the remote bass knob anyways), would the install be easier/faster?

Does it need its own power wire or how does it get power? I have the ported 10” JL and bet I could get better low end with this as well. Very interested.

To answer your first question, if I was able to use the OEM subwoofer audio for the input on the KeyLoc that we are currently using for our JL sub, then yes it would be an easier install. However, when trying to use that input signal, I could not get the KeyLoc to finish the setup process without errors. While their manual states you don't need a full range signal, I just could not get it to work. I called their tech support line and was told while the KeyLoc should work with just a bass signal input, sometimes it does not depending on the signal. I tried a few different times changing the input level and even reversed to polarity with no luck. I too am not as concerned about turning the volume knob past 14 as I have an external amp after the B&O and my volume control at 14 now is like what it was at around 20 or so with just the B&O amp. I was thinking I had a defective unit until I grabbed the outputs from the front two speakers and it went right through the setup process without a problem. Maybe it was me or my system or the KeyLoc but would be interested to know if someone else can get it to work with the OEM sub input.

To answer your question about power, it needs continuous 12V+ going to the yellow wire of the unit. The black wire to ground and it has DC sense which will automatically turn on the unit when it gets the audio input from the front speakers. In case the speaker outputs don't have enough DC voltage to turn on the unit, there is a red wire you can connect to ACC 12V. I personally did connect it this way since I had already connected the external JL amp's red turn on wire to the 12V Power Point that is right there in the rear cargo area. That way I know all of these devices (JL sub amp, JL whole system amp, KeyLoc) all go on and off when the car does.

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[Vgkfan]

UPDATE 04/07/24:

Three years ago, I started this thread after installing the JL Audio 10” sub enclosure with built in amp in my Premium. It’s a great little sub and because it has a built in amp, it’s a bit easier to install. This sub allows the cargo floor to be in the upper or lower position.

A month or so later, I replaced it with their 12” version. Because of the taller height, you must keep the cargo floor in the upper position. I upgraded to the 12” version not because I needed more output (it has more than enough for this system), but because the lower end was kind of lacking. It depends on the genre of music one listens to, but many find the OEM sub to be all they need (I don’t see how when it barely puts out any low end bass) while others want that lower end that they are missing in their music or use to it from their high end home system.

I’v had my GT now for 2+ years and have the same JL 12” Sub as I had in the Premium and while it works well, have never been completely satisfied with the lack of very low end bass. I get reminded of this every time I drive my ICE Mustang which has the same JL 12” sub. The bass in that car goes very low and sounds more dynamic. After doing some research I found that the B&O DSP/Amp in the Mach-E has a steep rolloff starting at 35Hz. Not only that, but starting at 14 on the volume control, the level of the audio signal going to the OEM sub no longer matches that of the other speakers and is somewhat attenuated.

In order to fix both of these issues I need to do two things. One, install a device that removes the rolloff and restores the low end bass and Two, grab the audio signal for the JL amp from some where other than the OEM sub wiring.

After reading online and talking to one of my friends that owns an auto stereo store, the best device (which also happens to be the least expensive) is the Kicker KeyLoc DSP/LOC. This little device analyzes the heavily EQ’d audio signal coming from the B&O amp and makes it flat across the entire band within 1.5dB. This is exactly what I was looking for. It is only a two channel device which is perfect since I’m only working with the sub. There are many other companies that make these devices like JL Audio and Audio Controls which have many more channels to correct your entire system but the sub is only one channel. Besides, if I wanted to correct the entire system and make it flat, I can easily do that using FORScan (free) but I would only be doing this if I replaced all the speakers and I’m not going that far with this car. As a side note, I did add a small JL Audio 200W RMS (50W RMS x4) amp after the B&O to provide 50W for each door which really woke up the B&O speakers. Much better dynamics and punchier mid-bass.

Installing the Kicker KeyLoc was fairly easy. Originally I had used the audio signal from the OEM sub to the input of the JL sub amp but since this signal becomes attenuated above 14 on the volume control, I needed to tap into the wires going to the front door speakers coming from the B&O amp. The wires are LF White +, White/Brown - and RF White/Violet +. White/Orange -. I ran those into the KeyLoc and started its setup process. You need to download three audio files from Kicker. One file tests for proper input gain, another for noise floor and the last analyzes the frequencies and flattens out the incoming signal. The KeyLoc has RCA outputs that plug right into the JL sub amp. After it had completed its setup, it is very easy to hear the difference because you can easily turn the EQ of the KeyLoc on and off. Turning on the “flat” setting on the KeyLoc instantly brought back that nice low end bass I was missing. I am very very happy with the bass in the car now. I want to say again, this might NOT be something you will want to do depending on the type of music you listen to. If you are happy with the bass that you have now with whatever aftermarket sub you have, I don’t think I would spend the $140 for the KeyLoc plus the time it takes to install it (1-3 hours depending on your skill level).

I used my RTA to test the output at 60, 50, 40, 30, 25 and 20Hz with and without the KeyLoc EQ. With the KeyLoc EQ turned off (B&O EQ active) At 60 and 50Hz, there was no difference. 40Hz, was down 2.5dB, 30Hz was down 12.5dB and 25, 20Hz was not even on the display so they were more than 20dB down.

Thanks much for another great read. The attenuation above level 14 explains what I’m hearing. The whole system seems to get more midrangy when I turn it up past a certain level, I’m guessing 14 lol. The radio is a few notches louder than my CarPlay, so will be doing some comparison listening now. I’m still all stock but believe the 10 inch sub would be enough improvement to make me much happier, even with the low end roll off. Thanks for the new info.

 

[markboris]

Thanks much for another great read. The attenuation above level 14 explains what I’m hearing. The whole system seems to get more midrangy when I turn it up past a certain level, I’m guessing 14 lol. The radio is a few notches louder than my CarPlay, so will be doing some comparison listening now. I’m still all stock but believe the 10 inch sub would be enough improvement to make me much happier, even with the low end roll off. Thanks for the new info.

Adding the JL 10" is a huge improvement, like night and day so no need to go any further. Going to a 12" and or adding the KeyLoc is just icing on the cake but not required.

 

[Mach1E]

To answer your first question, if I was able to use the OEM subwoofer audio for the input on the KeyLoc that we are currently using for our JL sub, then yes it would be an easier install. However, when trying to use that input signal, I could not get the KeyLoc to finish the setup process without errors. While their manual states you don't need a full range signal, I just could not get it to work. I called their tech support line and was told while the KeyLoc should work with just a bass signal input, sometimes it does not depending on the signal. I tried a few different times changing the input level and even reversed to polarity with no luck. I too am not as concerned about turning the volume knob past 14 as I have an external amp after the B&O and my volume control at 14 now is like what it was at around 20 or so with just the B&O amp. I was thinking I had a defective unit until I grabbed the outputs from the front two speakers and it went right through the setup process without a problem. Maybe it was me or my system or the KeyLoc but would be interested to know if someone else can get it to work with the OEM sub input.

To answer your question about power, it needs continuous 12V+ going to the yellow wire of the unit. The black wire to ground and it has DC sense which will automatically turn on the unit when it gets the audio input from the front speakers. In case the speaker outputs don't have enough DC voltage to turn on the unit, there is a red wire you can connect to ACC 12V. I personally did connect it this way since I had already connected the external JL amp's red turn on wire to the 12V Power Point that is right there in the rear cargo area. That way I know all of these devices (JL sub amp, JL whole system amp, KeyLoc) all go on and off when the car does.

Dang, that’s a bit more involved than I was hoping for. May get around to it eventually

 

[markboris]

Dang, that’s a bit more involved than I was hoping for. May get around to it eventually

Tapping into the front speaker wires is right at the B&O amp which is next to the OEM sub. You remove the connector going in the amp, peel back the loom protector, find the wires I mentioned in the update and tap off of them. The constant 12V and ground is already connected to the JL sub amp so just tap off of that. Done.

 

[Ababians]

Hi guys, I like all Mark Boris ideas but after 12jl audio subwoofer and 280/4 Jl amp were installed I had some noise problems and a Ford sync system display problem. After testing ground problems about RCA I think the problem comes from led wires crossing too close to speakers wires. But I don't know why the sync switch off when I use high volume. Sometimes the sync loose sounds setting in display and comes again after switching off and on. What is the problem about sync restarting after high volume or high bass sounds?

 

[mkhuffman]

Hi guys, I like all Mark Boris ideas but after 12jl audio subwoofer and 280/4 Jl amp were installed I had some noise problems and a Ford sync system display problem. After testing ground problems about RCA I think the problem comes from led wires crossing too close to speakers wires. But I don't know why the sync switch off when I use high volume. Sometimes the sync loose sounds setting in display and comes again after switching off and on. What is the problem about sync restarting after high volume or high bass sounds?

How did you power the amplifier? (Where did you draw the 12V from?)

 

[markboris]

Hi guys, I like all Mark Boris ideas but after 12jl audio subwoofer and 280/4 Jl amp were installed I had some noise problems and a Ford sync system display problem. After testing ground problems about RCA I think the problem comes from led wires crossing too close to speakers wires. But I don't know why the sync switch off when I use high volume. Sometimes the sync loose sounds setting in display and comes again after switching off and on. What is the problem about sync restarting after high volume or high bass sounds?

This is a difficult thing to try to figure out without knowing exactly how everything is connected. It does not make sense to me why this would be happening and I have never heard of this issue before. We would have to go in detail how every wire was connected. You said you had some issues with the LED lighting you installed. Did this issue with the audio start after you installed the LED lighting? Does Sync control the LED lighting in any way?

 

[Ababians]

I installed the leds with 12v power separated than audio upgrade. Today I will change the led wires position to avoid crossing with other wires. The led has no connection with sync system.
The Jl audio amp has the same 12V as JL subwoofer. The JL audio amp has the rem wire connected to 12v socket in rear trunk.
Why the sync switch off? I think there is no 12v or ground problem.

 

[ArthurDOB]

Can you install the 10" sub you recommend without also installing a volume control knob, or is one a necessity? I am loathe to be drilling holes in the car.

 

[Mach1E]

Can you install the 10" sub you recommend without also installing a volume control knob, or is one a necessity? I am loathe to be drilling holes in the car.

Of course!

But after having the knob I would never go back.

You could install it without drilling holes, just put it loose in the storage area between the seats or somewhere you can easily reach it.

The hole where we put it is somewhere no one would ever see it if you uninstall later.

 

[mkhuffman]

I installed the leds with 12v power separated than audio upgrade. Today I will change the led wires position to avoid crossing with other wires. The led has no connection with sync system.
The Jl audio amp has the same 12V as JL subwoofer. The JL audio amp has the rem wire connected to 12v socket in rear trunk.
Why the sync switch off? I think there is no 12v or ground problem.

Did you run a line from the 12V battery to power the Amp and subwoofer? The reason I ask is if you are pulling from the stock Amp 12V, maybe you are overloading the circuit. I would expect the fuse to blow, but maybe there is another safety mechanism kicking in.

 

[Ababians]

Hello, I use a Direct wire from subwoofer to battery so this is not the problem.

 

[Ababians]

Hi all guys!! Finally all the noise and bad sound problems were solved. It was a wrong wire connection. The devil played with me and with the WH_BN wires. Thank to Mark forever. Now I am glad with my new brilliant sound.

 

[markboris]

Hi all guys!! Finally all the noise and bad sound problems were solved. It was a wrong wire connection. The devil played with me and with the WH_BN wires. Thank to Mark forever. Now I am glad with my new brilliant sound.

Hey Juanjo, glad to hear you are finally enjoying your Mach-E’s audio system!!

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