Adding a Physical Interior Liftgate Power Switch

steveg95

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Really appreciate this hack Mark - gonna fit it to the Park switch in my MY24 this weekend. Just wanted to ask if you can provide a few tips on how to run the tap wire across from the BCM into the console....
Not sure how Mark did it. I had a friend slide a nylon fish wire under the trim on the floor and up into the cavity where the shift knob lives. I pulled the wire down to the floorboard and then tucked it under the plastic where it met the carpet.
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HuntingPudel

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Really appreciate this hack Mark - gonna fit it to the Park switch in my MY23 this weekend. Just wanted to ask if you can provide a few tips on how to run the tap wire across from the BCM into the console....
There is a harness that runs toward the console from the footwell. You can run the wire along that and fasten it to that harness using zip ties so that it doesn’t get unruly. ??
 

DaddyDeuce

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Boy, it would be nice if one of the aftermarket Mach-E suppliers whipped up a button assembly that replaced the parking icon with a tailgate icon and packaged it with any necessary wire harnesses.

The parking button is useless and the tailgate buried in a menu is a low-level annoyance.
 

mkhuffman

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Dudes.

I traded in my MME for a R1T. I had the new switch assembly, and I didn't want to trade in my rigged-up switch that opens the hatch.

First of all, I love having a hatch button. I used it almost every day. But the wire inserted into the assembly could shift out, and I don't want the new owner of my car to have a problem Ford cannot fix. So I removed the asembly and replaced it with the bug fixed one.

So. If you want the switch assembly with the hatch button installed, just DM me. I will mail it to you for free. I will pay shipping. I just hate to throw it away. Keep in mind it is the old switch assembly with the headlight bug (as all Fords have with this part), but you can fix that if you want. I just don't want to throw this away. Let me know!

Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a Physical Interior Liftgate Power Switch 1742690757431-m
 

kens

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Dudes.

I traded in my MME for a R1T.
Congrats ?

Just get it today?

Too soon for impressions and a comparison I suppose... People sure seem to love them, I haven't had a chance to drive one yet.
 


mkhuffman

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Congrats ?

Just get it today?

Too soon for impressions and a comparison I suppose... People sure seem to love them, I haven't had a chance to drive one yet.
I picked it up on Wednesday. Tri Max.

I love it. I loved my MME also, but for different reasons. The T can haul stuff. Like yesterday I hauled 50 bags of mulch.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a Physical Interior Liftgate Power Switch 1000000269


And today I hauled 3,000 lbs of pavers.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a Physical Interior Liftgate Power Switch 1000000290


From a driving perspective, in Sport mode it handles almost like a sports car. Not as great as my MME and aftermarket sway bars, but for a truck it is amazing.

On the highway it is very smooth. Much more comfortable than my bouncy MME. And visibility is better, of course.

The most significant change is range, and a big reason why I wanted the T. I am getting 2.4 mi/kWh at 75 mph, which is 340 miles of highway range. Amazing. I might even be able to do better as summer approaches. Of course winter is another story.
 

MachhE-CT

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I have a 2013 Ford Esape which has an interior hatch release. The OnLY time I have ever used it is when backing up my utility trailer which is low enough I can’t see it unless I open the hatch. The rest of the time I am putting something in or removing something which means I am
At the back of the car. Obviously not towing with the MachE. I don’t miss it in this car.
 

kens

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I picked it up on Wednesday. Tri Max.

I love it. I loved my MME also, but for different reasons. The T can haul stuff. Like yesterday I hauled 50 bags of mulch.

1000000269.jpg


And today I hauled 3,000 lbs of pavers.

1000000290.jpg


From a driving perspective, in Sport mode it handles almost like a sports car. Not as great as my MME and aftermarket sway bars, but for a truck it is amazing.

On the highway it is very smooth. Much more comfortable than my bouncy MME. And visibility is better, of course.

The most significant change is range, and a big reason why I wanted the T. I am getting 2.4 mi/kWh at 75 mph, which is 340 miles of highway range. Amazing. I might even be able to do better as summer approaches. Of course winter is another story.
Most awesome. I was strongly considering a Lightening when I bought the MME. Even the small Maverick had been on my radar for a while, but it was pretty anemic after driving electric. I haven't had a truck in years, but I miss it, and can find plenty of truck uses to justify one. I've loved my Prii, but am glad to be in something larger now, even if not all the way back to truck large.

I could see myself going Rivian in the not to distant future, stick around and let us know how it fares.
 

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Thanks for the instructions @markboris. I took an hour to very carefully do this mod with a bright light and Dorman red splice and union connectors. I taped it back up all pretty and it works perfectly.
 

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Mark, it's been a couple of years since I came upon this thread, but I finally got a chance to complete this mod. And it's as awesome as described!

My only contribution to this mod is, I used pick tools to peel back the harness weave wrap. Took about 10 seconds. And I was able to find the "brown" wire like in another 10 seconds. Not sure why this has been difficult for some, but maybe I got lucky.


Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a Physical Interior Liftgate Power Switch Hatch 2
Ford Mustang Mach-E Adding a Physical Interior Liftgate Power Switch Hatch 1


Also, I would like to add, Mr. Boris, not only do you provide this forum with in-depth guides on how to accomplish a series of mods for our vehicles, but you also have the patience of a saint w/our questions, and most importantly, give us plebes the confidence to tackle many of these projects - and complete them successfully - that we would normally have no business attempting.

So for that, we salute you!
 
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markboris

markboris

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Mark, it's been a couple of years since I came upon this thread, but I finally got a chance to complete this mod. And it's as awesome as described!

My only contribution to this mod is, I used pick tools to peel back the harness weave wrap. Took about 10 seconds. And I was able to find the "brown" wire like in another 10 seconds. Not sure why this has been difficult for some, but maybe I got lucky.


Hatch 2.jpg
Hatch 1.jpg


Also, I would like to add, Mr. Boris, not only do you provide this forum with in-depth guides on how to accomplish a series of mods for our vehicles, but you also have the patience of a saint w/our questions, and most importantly, give us plebes the confidence to tackle many of these project - and complete them successfully - that we would normally have no business attempting.

So for that, we salute you!
Thank you Orr for the kind words. Glad you got this simple mod working and are happy with the outcome. About that Brown wire, I think you got lucky. I have done this on 5 Mach-E's and sometimes it is easy to find but most times not since it is in a sea of wires. I do peel back the harness wrap like you did but can still be difficult to find. Anyway, glad it all worked out. ?
 

HughJazzol

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Mark, it's been a couple of years since I came upon this thread, but I finally got a chance to complete this mod. And it's as awesome as described!

My only contribution to this mod is, I used pick tools to peel back the harness weave wrap. Took about 10 seconds. And I was able to find the "brown" wire like in another 10 seconds. Not sure why this has been difficult for some, but maybe I got lucky.


Hatch 2.jpg
Hatch 1.jpg


Also, I would like to add, Mr. Boris, not only do you provide this forum with in-depth guides on how to accomplish a series of mods for our vehicles, but you also have the patience of a saint w/our questions, and most importantly, give us plebes the confidence to tackle many of these projects - and complete them successfully - that we would normally have no business attempting.

So for that, we salute you!
Orr and Mark

I've read this post many times, and it sounds easy as hell. However, for those of us that are not super car wire savvy, it seems daunting.
I will summarize in very plain words for my brain and other's, and correct me if needed.

CENTER CONSOLE:
The useless park ass button has 2 wires out of it, a ground and the other one, let's call it O.

BCM WIRING ASSEMBLY:
This ia near the pedals, and in that bundle is a brown wire.
We must:
1. Find the brown wire.
2. Cut it
3. Connect a new wire to it that goes from the cut to post O of the park assist button.
4. Leave the ground wire, blue and black, of the park assist button alone.

Did I say it correctly?
Thank you
 

HughJazzol

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I think you tap brown, not cut it.
That probably sounds right.
How do you tap a car wire? With some sort of connector that I will google after saving this
 
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markboris

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Hey Norman, yes you “tap” into the brown wire. I generally use Posi-Taps to do that. You do not cut that brown wire. The BCM is at the base of the passenger footwell.

The “O” (green/brown) wire on the parking brake switch does need to be cut. Tape off the wire that was going to it and the wire that is still connected to it goes to the brown wire you tapped into at the BCM.
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