Adding a real subwoofer w/amp to your Mach-E

[Rpgonzalez]

IMO the B&O absolutely needs treble cranked. Who tuned this thing??

Hey, I got it. Maybe us old farts have ruined our hearing…

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[Dentalpain]

New member here. Read the entire thread here and wanted to thank everyone. I have a route one and purchased the jl 10" powerwedge off market place for 350 and ordered a rbc1 and new leads for the jl amp.

I have noted the rear speaker colors to look for. I'm going to pull the rear trim and tap (I bought the pin style taps mentioned here) into the 12v and rear speaker wire. My question is where is the best place to find the wire loom for the rears (which appear to only be in the rear door). The scuff plates have a protective cover. Finally, what guage wire should I use for power and speaker level runs?

 

[mkhuffman]

New member here. Read the entire thread here and wanted to thank everyone. I have a route one and purchased the jl 10" powerwedge off market place for 350 and ordered a rbc1 and new leads for the jl amp.

I have noted the rear speaker colors to look for. I'm going to pull the rear trim and tap (I bought the pin style taps mentioned here) into the 12v and rear speaker wire. My question is where is the best place to find the wire loom for the rears (which appear to only be in the rear door). The scuff plates have a protective cover. Finally, what guage wire should I use for power and speaker level runs?

I am not sure I understand your question. All the rear speakers are driven from the amp in the hatch. That is where you will tap in to them. Even the front door speakers are driven by that amp. I initially used the front speakers for my sub but the amp really rolls the bass off for those speakers and that was a bad choice. Use the subwoofer output.

 

[Dentalpain]

I have the route 1, non b&o system, which to my understanding has no amp (or sub) amd hence no signal to grab in the hatch.

 

[Mach1E]

I have the route 1, non b&o system, which to my understanding has no amp (or sub) amd hence no signal to grab in the hatch.

Grab the signal off the nearest speaker.

 

[Mach-Jay]

I have the route 1, non b&o system, which to my understanding has no amp (or sub) amd hence no signal to grab in the hatch.

It's mentioned earlier, but you can just use wiretaps in the front door jams..
The colored wires you need for the Left Rear speaker is Gray/Violet +, Brown/Green - and the Right Rear speaker is Green/Violet +, Gray -. They are paired and twisted together - just untwist a couple of inches to fit in your wiretaps.

I recommend you start with the passenger side - it is much easier to find (I have yet to find the drivers side wires.) I've been running with the passenger side only and it sounds perfect - nothing missing at all.

 

[RedOctobrrr]

It's mentioned earlier, but you can just use wiretaps in the front door jams..
The colored wires you need for the Left Rear speaker is Gray/Violet +, Brown/Green - and the Right Rear speaker is Green/Violet +, Gray -. They are paired and twisted together - just untwist a couple of inches to fit in your wiretaps.

I recommend you start with the passenger side - it is much easier to find (I have yet to find the drivers side wires.) I've been running with the passenger side only and it sounds perfect - nothing missing at all.

Thanks, i plan on attempting install next week and using passenger green/violet and grey, and also sending the sub volume knob up that same route to get to the center console. Down the left side I'll run the 8ga power from 12V batt to the amp in the back.

Question for all: does the 8ga power line cause interference with other wires going down that kickplate/threshold/door jamb?

 

[Mach-Jay]

Thanks, i plan on attempting install next week and using passenger green/violet and grey, and also sending the sub volume knob up that same route to get to the center console. Down the left side I'll run the 8ga power from 12V batt to the amp in the back.

Question for all: does the 8ga power line cause interference with other wires going down that kickplate/threshold/door jamb?

There's already power running down those sills, so there wouldn't be much extra interference.

That said, as many have pointed out, the hardest part of this job is getting the wire to the LVB and IMO is completely unnecessary. Just use the 12v in the back and call it a day. If you ever blow the fuse then sure, run the wire.

 

[RedOctobrrr]

There's already power running down those sills, so there wouldn't be much extra interference.

That said, as many have pointed out, the hardest part of this job is getting the wire to the LVB and IMO is completely unnecessary. Just use the 12v in the back and call it a day. If you ever blow the fuse then sure, run the wire.

That's risky business Jay. The wire supplying that outlet is not sufficient for a 400W RMS sub.

I've seen folks using the 150W subs there and sure, that might work long term, but I would never supply a full powered amp and sub with that outlet back there lol.

 

[Mach-Jay]

That's risky business Jay. The wire supplying that outlet is not sufficient for a 400W RMS sub.

I've seen folks using the 150W subs there and sure, that might work long term, but I would never supply a full powered amp and sub with that outlet back there lol.

Risk of blowing a fuse? Yes. I've been running it for almost a year without issue!

 

[Dentalpain]

It's mentioned earlier, but you can just use wiretaps in the front door jams..
The colored wires you need for the Left Rear speaker is Gray/Violet +, Brown/Green - and the Right Rear speaker is Green/Violet +, Gray -. They are paired and twisted together - just untwist a couple of inches to fit in your wiretaps.

I recommend you start with the passenger side - it is much easier to find (I have yet to find the drivers side wires.) I've been running with the passenger side only and it sounds perfect - nothing missing at all.

Yes sir, did you find the wire loom under the A or B pillar? I pulled the scuff plate and the wire harness is completely covered with a hard plastic protective cover (should I remove that cover). I've got wiretaps on hand ready 2 go.

 

[RedOctobrrr]

Yes sir, did you find the wire loom under the A or B pillar? I pulled the scuff plate and the wire harness is completely covered with a hard plastic protective cover (should I remove that cover). I've got wiretaps on hand ready 2 go.

Maybe Jay's post #196 will help?

 

[Mach-Jay]

Maybe Jay's post #196 will help?

Haha - that post should help you with what not to do! That's the driver side - wires I never found.

Just pull up the sill on the passenger side and fold it back out of the way. The protective cover stops closer to the front of the car and you can access the wire bundle pretty easily.

 

[Dentalpain]

Haha - that post should help you with what not to do! That's the driver side - wires I never found.

Just pull up the sill on the passenger side and fold it back out of the way. The protective cover stops closer to the front of the car and you can access the wire bundle pretty easily.

Thank you!

 

[mkhuffman]

I finished the write-up of my front seat subwoofer installation. SInce it is a long post, I started a new thread.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...the-driver’s-seat-this-is-how-i-did-it.25730/

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