Coolant not heating up

[Wideguy]

Our 2021 Mach E AWD with extended battery produces lukewarm heat or no heat. I have read the posts on this forum that relate to TSB 22-2182 and TSB 23-2088 that relate to a problem like this. The dealer brought the car into their warm garage and checked the problem and said they verified the TSB 23-2088 had been loaded and "reset" the car to get it to take. After that they found the car produced heat. Less than a week later we have the same problem.

So today I tested several things. I charged the car last night to 90% on a 60Amp level 2 charger. Over night the temperature was about 15F and at 2AM the car drew 1.6kw during a 1hr and 15 min period. I assume this was to condition the battery because of the cold. At 9Am I set a departure time of 9:30am. With the climate set to warm. The app notified me at 9:30 that the car was ready. When I got in the car it was cold. I turned the car on and it blew cold air when set to Auto level 1 and 70F. I plugged in my car scanner and saw the engine coolant temp was 26F. I drove up the mountain near my home and back. About a 30 minute trip. Then I drove around town in 1 pedal mode for about 30 minutes then a little highway driving for 10 minutes. Still no heat. With the battery at 78% I returned home and set the car to charge to 85%. After 25 minutes the car reached 85% and stopped charging. The engine coolant temperature had increased to 33F. The car then made a gurgling sound from the dashboard like engine coolant moving around. I turned the car on and the engine coolant temp continued to rise to 120F over the next 13 minutes.

I then drove back up the mountain and watched the engine coolant temperature drop to 88F and cool air blow from the vents. I pulled into a parking lot and left the car on to see if the windchill from driving was a factor. The engine coolant temperature recovered to 118F in about 18 minutes. I then drove home and the engine coolant temp dropped to 100F but recovered to 113F when I pulled in my driveway.

Ambient temps during these 3 or 4 hours was between 15 and 20F. Climate was set to Auto level 1 at 70-75F. I have not checked the coolant level. Not sure if the dealer did when they had it last. This car is going to the dealer tomorrow. Curious what people think the problem could be. Coolant, Damper, module??

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[AliRafiee]

The cabin heater is an electric element. Nothing to do with motor temperature.
If you have an engine in your car, you might be in the wrong forum.

Maybe you’re talking about the battery coolant? Which is to keep the battery at an optimal temperature, not too cold and not too hot.

 

[Wideguy]

Sorry I meant to load a few screen shots from the Car scanner app and used their label for the area of information I was referencing.

 

[RickMachE]

Just to note - 30 minutes is not enough time for a departure, it can take 90 minutes.

 

[Wideguy]

That is why it went to the dealer the first time for little to no heat. We had several departure times set days in advance and the car plugged in and charger not on a schedule. The app would say the car is ready for departure but when you got in the car it was cold. I have tried just doing the remote start and setting the climate with the same result. Meanwhile my fathers Nissan Ariya parked right next to my car is warm in 10 minutes. I realize it uses a different heating system but I still think there is a problem with the car not heating like it did when we first bought it in 2021.

 

[Mach-Lee]

If you have no heat, make sure you tap the AUTO button which resets the HVAC settings. Perhaps you had shut off the heater in the HVAC settings.

Keep an eye on it, but unless it's operator error you may have a failing PTC heater. The heater can work intermittently when it starts to go bad. This has been observed many times on the forum now.

You should be able to check the coolant levels yourself if you pop off the top frunk cover.

Engine Coolant Temperature (B) is the coolant discharge temp right after the PTC heater. Yes that should normally be >100ºF if the heater is on. You may also want to look at the coolant heater power parameter.

 

[Wideguy]

If you have no heat, make sure you tap the AUTO button which resets the HVAC settings. Perhaps you had shut off the heater in the HVAC settings.

Keep an eye on it, but unless it's operator error you may have a failing PTC heater. The heater can work intermittently when it starts to go bad. This has been observed many times on the forum now.

You should be able to check the coolant levels yourself if you pop off the top frunk cover.

Engine Coolant Temperature (B) is the coolant discharge temp right after the PTC heater. Yes that should normally be >100ºF if the heater is on. You may also want to look at the coolant heater power parameter.

I was afraid it may be the PTC failing but with the wind chill having such an effect I wondered if their is a damper that was stuck open. Hopefully I know more in a day or 2. I will report back

 

[Mach-Lee]

I was afraid it may be the PTC failing but with the wind chill having such an effect I wondered if their is a damper that was stuck open. Hopefully I know more in a day or 2. I will report back

There is no damper in the cabin heater loop. The only way there'd be no flow would be if the coolant heater pump failed, which is unlikely. The temp sensor is in the hose right after the heater. But we've only seen PTC heater failures, no pump failures that I know of.

 

[Maquis]

Dumb question - have you checked the coolant level?

 

[Teslaeata]

Our 2021 Mach E AWD with extended battery produces lukewarm heat or no heat. I have read the posts on this forum that relate to TSB 22-2182 and TSB 23-2088 that relate to a problem like this. The dealer brought the car into their warm garage and checked the problem and said they verified the TSB 23-2088 had been loaded and "reset" the car to get it to take. After that they found the car produced heat. Less than a week later we have the same problem.

So today I tested several things. I charged the car last night to 90% on a 60Amp level 2 charger. Over night the temperature was about 15F and at 2AM the car drew 1.6kw during a 1hr and 15 min period. I assume this was to condition the battery because of the cold. At 9Am I set a departure time of 9:30am. With the climate set to warm. The app notified me at 9:30 that the car was ready. When I got in the car it was cold. I turned the car on and it blew cold air when set to Auto level 1 and 70F. I plugged in my car scanner and saw the engine coolant temp was 26F. I drove up the mountain near my home and back. About a 30 minute trip. Then I drove around town in 1 pedal mode for about 30 minutes then a little highway driving for 10 minutes. Still no heat. With the battery at 78% I returned home and set the car to charge to 85%. After 25 minutes the car reached 85% and stopped charging. The engine coolant temperature had increased to 33F. The car then made a gurgling sound from the dashboard like engine coolant moving around. I turned the car on and the engine coolant temp continued to rise to 120F over the next 13 minutes.

I then drove back up the mountain and watched the engine coolant temperature drop to 88F and cool air blow from the vents. I pulled into a parking lot and left the car on to see if the windchill from driving was a factor. The engine coolant temperature recovered to 118F in about 18 minutes. I then drove home and the engine coolant temp dropped to 100F but recovered to 113F when I pulled in my driveway.

Ambient temps during these 3 or 4 hours was between 15 and 20F. Climate was set to Auto level 1 at 70-75F. I have not checked the coolant level. Not sure if the dealer did when they had it last. This car is going to the dealer tomorrow. Curious what people think the problem could be. Coolant, Damper, module??

Just experienced what appears to be the same issue you have on my Dec ‘20 build June ‘21 delivered Premium RWD ER.

Mine turned out to be a failing PTC heater which is the coolant heater for the heating system.

Heat would come and go seemingly randomly.

I think your car really needs a proper guided diagnosis by competent dealer because fault could be symptomatic of a range of defects.

Once replaced, my heater worked like I feel certain it never worked since car was new.

 

[Teslaeata]

One thing I tried which only really proved the PTC didn’t draw power when in faulted state was to connect the OBD dongle and Car Scanner’s dashboard to see the power usage rise and fall, or not if the heating system was in its faulted state, as I toggled the e-heat on & off.

Toggling A/Con on & off also showed its own power usage out of interest and to ensure you’re looking at the right dashboard item in Car Scanner.

 

[Teslaeata]

When working correctly as mine now is, heat is almost instant, not very long after I leave my drive even with no pre-conditioning, heaters area effective.

 

[Misterrobot]

Edit - the technical service bulletins. The original poster mentioned may be what I’m talking about below. So if it is, never mind.

Just a thought. My early build 2023 Select standard range was putting out little heat during a family trip. I read the OBD two data and it thought the interior temperature was 103F. It didn’t think it needed to heat the cabin so it didn’t. I believe that there’s a technical service bulletin on this for 21 and 22 model years.

I brought my car in for the issue today and they could not re-create the problem, of course. I’m going to circle back with the dealership and work on the problem again.

 

[Wideguy]

One thing I tried which only really proved the PTC didn’t draw power when in faulted state was to connect the OBD dongle and Car Scanner’s dashboard to see the power usage rise and fall, or not if the heating system was in its faulted state, as I toggled the e-heat on & off.

Toggling A/Con on & off also showed its own power usage out of interest and to ensure you’re looking at the right dashboard item in Car Scanner.

I will test this when the problem happens again. For now the dealer has determined it is a faulty valve for the coolant. The dealer has had a similar issue with some of the Ford Lightning. The part for this fix is backordered until March. Currently the car is producing heat but over the next couple months things could get a bit chilly.

 

[Teslaeata]

Sounds like dealer has run their diagnostics; my contact in Ford technical informed that the fault could be anything from fuse which is unlikely if the car didn’t stop and remain as a non runner, faulty wiring, the PTC, circulation pump so a valve sounds feasible.​

Hope they’re correct and the cost is far less than a replacement PTC.​

Pls keep us advised.​

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