Disable Backup Beeping?

Dylancch

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3x12?? Who the hell has 3x12 laying around. I don’t often say this but... I am impressed by your wood.
Haha I use to work on drilling rigs had atlease 40 to 50 boards that size most are gone now do to the fact they make good firewood
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jeffdawgfan

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generaltso

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Mirak

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Today was a productive day! Removed the frunk dividers (easy), cleaned my interior plastic door thresholds and lower interior door panels and applied Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic spray to hopefully make those areas easier to clean in the future (muddy feet), and then I tackled the SPEAKER.

This project stretched my DIY capabilities to the max. First, I used some scrap wood to make ramps about 3” tall. (That sounds precarious but they were actually quite stable - just boards stacked on top of each other, staggered a couple inches each to form a ramp, and all screwed together with 3” deck screws). The extra 3” gave me just enough to operate beneath the car, but it was still real tight.

Removing the front underbody shield (see page 1) was pretty easy. I left the the cover attached with the rear three screws. You don’t need to totally remove the shield. If you remove all but the three rear screws, you can pull the shield down enough to reach the speaker.

The speaker grill is held in place with 4 star-head screws. So you’ll need a set of star bits. After I removed the speaker grill, I brought that inside and cut 2 circles of cardboard to fit inside the grill. Then wrapped the whole thing in duct tape. Took it back outside and reattached the grill.

Getting the shield reattached was a PAIN just as I was worried it would be. Specifically, getting the front right and left corners of the shield re-tucked to where they need to go was a bitch. I can’t really describe exactly how it pieces together, but pay close attention as you’re pulling it apart!

Most of the screws are simple hex/washer combos. There are two push-pins, and two plastic screws. The plastic screws were the only pain - nearly broke one of them on removal but they pushed back in reasonably tight.

Afterward, I can still hear the backup chime but it’s much quieter now. And now I’ve got some ramps for changing the oil!

Most of this project was easy, but reattaching the shield can be a pain so BEWARE!

Once I was finally finished I went upstairs and cut all the tags off the mattresses.
 
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HuntingPudel

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Once I was finally finished I went upstairs and cut all the tags off the mattresses.
Ah, but did you cut the tags off of the pillows?
 

jeffdawgfan

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Today was a productive day! Removed the frunk dividers (easy), cleaned my interior plastic door thresholds and lower interior door panels and applied Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic spray to hopefully make those areas easier to clean in the future (muddy feet), and then I tackled the SPEAKER.

This project stretched my DIY capabilities to the max. First, I used some scrap wood to make ramps about 3” tall. (That sounds precarious but they were actually quite stable - just boards stacked on top of each other, staggered a couple inches each to form a ramp, and all screwed together with 3” deck screws). The extra 3” gave me just enough to operate beneath the car, but it was still real tight.

Removing the front underbody shield (see page 1) was pretty easy. I left the the cover attached with the rear three screws. You don’t need to totally remove the shield. If you remove all but the three rear screws, you can pull the shield down enough to reach the speaker.

The speaker grill is held in place with 4 star-head screws. So you’ll need a set of star bits. After I removed the speaker grill, I brought that inside and cut 2 circles of cardboard to fit inside the grill. Then wrapped the whole thing in duct tape. Took it back outside and reattached the grill.

Getting the shield reattached was a PAIN just as I was worried it would be. Specifically, getting the front right and left corners of the shield re-tucked to where they need to go was a bitch. I can’t really describe exactly how it pieces together, but pay close attention as you’re pulling it apart!

Most of the screws are simple hex/washer combos. There are two push-pins, and two plastic screws. The plastic screws were the only pain - nearly broke one of them on removal but they pushed back in reasonably tight.

Afterward, I can still hear the backup chime but it’s much quieter now. And now I’ve got some ramps for changing the oil!

Most of this project was easy, but reattaching the shield can be a pain so BEWARE!

Once I was finally finished I went upstairs and cut all the tags off the mattresses.
When putting cover back on start at one front corner. Put in that screw and then across the front row. Then do back row. After that do push pins. Not that hard if you do it in that order.
 

jhalkias

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I have always been glad that Ford does many things BETTER than Tesla. After reading this thread, I'm not so sure everyone agrees.

I guess a lot of people have no one in their lives that they care about that is sight impaired.

Yeah, I would be the guy who would want the backup beep on ICE vehicles too.
 

Chudsaviet

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I have always been glad that Ford does many things BETTER than Tesla. After reading this thread, I'm not so sure everyone agrees.

I guess a lot of people have no one in their lives that they care about that is sight impaired.

Yeah, I would be the guy who would want the backup beep on ICE vehicles too.
You are just less sound sensitive and you don’t feel our pain, so its easy to you to like backup beepers. For me, backup beeping from any vehicle is painful to hear.
 

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You are just less sound sensitive and you don’t feel our pain, so its easy to you to like backup beepers. For me, backup beeping from any vehicle is painful to hear.
And for the visually impaired (among others) the sound can be a life saver. Get over it.
 

Luke

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I don’t get it. Why does this bother people SO much?
Makes the nice car sound like a delivery van.
Although I like the spaceship humming noise. Just not the beeping.
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