DIY: Key Fob with Frunk Button !

[chimpster23]

looking for some help here as I am confused on the programming part of it.

Can anyone confirm this works on a 22 model?

is there a video that shows the instructions or a picture that shows where we need to place the fobs to program and turn on the vehicle?

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[RedOctobrrr]

!!! UPDATE !!!

For starters, check the website linked in the first comment regularly, they restock that page whenever new keys come in. I checked one random morning about a week ago and it said there was ONE in stock. It was purchased that same morning before 7:48am EST.

Now on to the back of the key. You can pop the logo off by removing the blank and then just pulling with your finger. As others have mentioned, it really feels like you're about to crack it before it gives out. Just pull that sucker off from the very end, no tools needed.

And for the best part - I have discovered the 100% surefire method to programming this new key, and the procedure from Ford is WRONG. I will outline it here in very simple steps:

Prepare for the process by having all 3 keys on standby, I will number the keys with their description then refer to them later in the steps.

1. Original key fob programmed by Ford
2. Second key fob programmed by Ford
3. New (or used) key fob that is not yet programmed to work with your car

And now onto the 3 simple, fail-proof steps:

1. Sit in driver's seat with all doors closed and car off, key 1 in the center console slot, buttons facing rear of car (orientation up or down doesn't matter, but have buttons face rear), press the car's start button, no brake pedal, count to 5 (one-one-thousand, two-one-thousand), press start button again.

2. Very quickly, remove key 1 and replace with key 2, no counting, just swap those out quickly, and press start again, no brake pedal, and count to 5, press start button again. Just before you get to 5, you should've seen your door pass code displayed on the screen.

3. Very quickly, remove key 2 and replace with key 3, no counting, just swap those out quickly, and press start again. There will be all kinds of funky lights and turn signals galore and the screen will tell you that the key was programmed successfully. Done.

 

[generaltso]

And for the best part - I have discovered the 100% surefire method to programming this new key, and the procedure from Ford is WRONG. I will outline it here in very simple steps:

Prepare for the process by having all 3 keys on standby, I will number the keys with their description then refer to them later in the steps.

1. Original key fob programmed by Ford
2. Second key fob programmed by Ford
3. New (or used) key fob that is not yet programmed to work with your car

And now onto the 3 simple, fail-proof steps:

1. Sit in driver's seat with all doors closed and car off, key 1 in the center console slot, buttons facing rear of car (orientation up or down doesn't matter, but have buttons face rear), press the car's start button, no brake pedal, count to 5 (one-one-thousand, two-one-thousand), press start button again.

2. Very quickly, remove key 1 and replace with key 2, no counting, just swap those out quickly, and press start again, no brake pedal, and count to 5, press start button again. Just before you get to 5, you should've seen your door pass code displayed on the screen.

3. Very quickly, remove key 2 and replace with key 3, no counting, just swap those out quickly, and press start again. There will be all kinds of funky lights and turn signals galore and the screen will tell you that the key was programmed successfully. Done.

Those sound like the normal steps. What’s different?

 

[RedOctobrrr]

Those sound like the normal steps. What’s different?

The procedure says to wait 5 seconds before the last step and "within 10 seconds" for each other step but real world application you need to just swap these out as quickly as you can, no pauses between or waiting 5 seconds like it says for the last step.

If you haven't noticed, several here have mentioned having difficulty with the process. I also had difficulty until ditching the time requirements or suggestions between the 3 steps I mentioned.

I have a strong feeling anyone following the steps as I've laid them out would get it accomplished first time.

 

[RedOctobrrr]

looking for some help here as I am confused on the programming part of it.

Can anyone confirm this works on a 22 model?

is there a video that shows the instructions or a picture that shows where we need to place the fobs to program and turn on the vehicle?

Hey sorry I didn't see your post but read my reply right after yours, in case you never ended up finishing this. I had a lot of trouble until I just went rapid fire key 1, 2, 3.

 

[Frunkedup]

Finally! A remote specifically for the Mach E power frunk option... you can thank me later.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354543983990

 

[DRuth086]

Finally! A remote specifically for the Mach E power frunk option... you can thank me later.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354543983990

Stupid question that's probably already been answered here, but will this work on a Job 1 2021 model that has no frunk button in FordPass or in Sync or anywhere other than the manual pull?

 

[generaltso]

Stupid question that's probably already been answered here, but will this work on a Job 1 2021 model that has no frunk button in FordPass or in Sync or anywhere other than the manual pull?

Yes, but only if the BCM and GFM have been updated.

 

[RedOctobrrr]

Finally! A remote specifically for the Mach E power frunk option... you can thank me later.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354543983990

Man, I'm literally building this right now all Frankenstein'd with pieces from literally 3 separate fobs haha... Nearly half the price of what you linked, but at least it's a full, complete part with no work involved.

 

[Frunkedup]

Man, I'm literally building this right now all Frankenstein'd with pieces from literally 3 separate fobs haha... Nearly half the price of what you linked, but at least it's a full, complete part with no work involved.

haha hey whatever works!

 

[RedOctobrrr]

FYI anyone going this route, fairly easy to pop out the button: push in on the little tab holes, pry apart gently and presto, extra buttons. Now I just need the Lightning one back in stock.

Does it feel kinda... janky? Like the new hatch button doesn't fit the same, doesn't press the same... even the back of the button has the grid design built into the material whereas OEM has like a black plastic grid that seems to stick out just a little more. Also, the silver is just slightly off color. Nitpicky for sure, but the feel of it kinda sucks.

Edit: btw thanks for the pics it gave me the confidence to pull the button plate apart.

 

[Neil4Real]

Finally! A remote specifically for the Mach E power frunk option... you can thank me later.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/354543983990

Are they just selling Lightning keys and doing the work for us on swapping the other button and back?

 

[generaltso]

Are they just selling Lightning keys and doing the work for us on swapping the other button and back?

Presumably, yes since Ford doesn’t make an American Mach-E fob with a frunk button. Not a bad idea if they have easy access to Lightning fobs since they’re selling these for twice the cost.

 

[SWO]

Are they just selling Lightning keys and doing the work for us on swapping the other button and back?

That has to be the case.

 

[CompilerBreak]

Does it feel kinda... janky? Like the new hatch button doesn't fit the same, doesn't press the same... even the back of the button has the grid design built into the material whereas OEM has like a black plastic grid that seems to stick out just a little more. Also, the silver is just slightly off color. Nitpicky for sure, but the feel of it kinda sucks.

Edit: btw thanks for the pics it gave me the confidence to pull the button plate apart.

So funny enough, I still haven't managed to get a lightning key to finish this. Tried to use my points but the dealer parts guy wasn't terribly helpful in trying to make sure it was the correct one.

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